Clutch Push Rod Bearing Question

I have read multiple threads that mention the bearing behind the clutch push rod but I haven't found any threads directly addressing the bearing itself. I was hoping someone could explain the function of the bearing and what the effect of not having it would be. I would also like to know the size of it should I actually have to go find one. Thanks!!!

It is a single ball, as from a ball bearing. Leaving it out makes the clutch release mechanism too short, which would have to be compensated for. It is there to act like a throwout bearing in a car, so that one part may spin at a different rate than another. If you look at the parts lists, it shows where it goes: between the main pushrod and the end piece that pushes against the pressure plate.

Don't leave it out.

Size is same as whatever the long pushrod is at the clutch end. It needs to be a close fit to the bore of the mainshaft.

PN: 93505-16006-00

The function of the ball is the same as any bearing, to reduce the friction between to moving part. Rod # 10 presses on the pressure plate and spins with it. The rod #14 presses on the worm and tends to stay stationary when you pull the lever. With out a ball bearing in there the wear on the ends of the rods rubbing one to the other would be excessive. The ball removes most of this friction.
It's the same size as the XS650 uses it's a 5/16 inch ball. They both use the same part number. And yes you need it.
The distance between the pressure plate and worm mechanism is a certain amount. If the ball between the rods or in the worm are missing the worm adjuster screw won't be long enough to adjust the clutch.
This is a parts break down for a 78. I think all years were the same, or very close.
One ball is #13 this is the ball between the rods #14 and #10. The worm #16 has a ball mounted in it but wear on the stakes holding it in wear off and the ball can fall out.
You can get a 5/16 steel bearing at most any hardware store.
Leo

Thanks for the replies. I have been having some clutch issues that I am trying to work out and am trying to get my mind around the whole system to better understand how to adjust. I have changed the oil to a wet clutch friendly motorcycle oil and have adjusted the clutch cable at the lever and engine. It still doesn't feel quite right and I am trying to sort it all. No point in stabbing at it Willy Nilly. THANKS!!

On adjustment loosen the cable at the lever to get plenty of slack. Always do this and adjust at the engine first.
Now adjust at the engine. When you loosen the lock nut spin the adjuster screw out a few turns. Spin the screw in/out a few times to get a good feel for how hard just the screw turns. Now turn the screw in till you just feel an increase in the resistance.
This is a critical point in the adjustment. This is the point you have removed all free play in the mechanism from the adjuster screw to the pressure plate.
Now you need to add in some free play. Watch the lock nut and turn the screw back out one flat of the nut. Hold the screw in place as you tighten the lock nut.
Any less free play and the clutch will slip. Any more free play and you won't open the pressure plate enough to minimize drag.
Now back at the lever adjust for 1/8 to 1/4 inch free play.
This should get the clutch working at it best.
The adjustment procedure in your repair manual is the right procedure but they use 1/4 turn back on the adjuster screw, this is a bit much. The one flat is 1/6th of a turn.
These clutches have just enough pressure plate movement to work. If you have excessive free play you will get clutch drag. This makes finding neutral and shifting more difficult. If you have no free play the clutch can slip.
Leo

I appreciate this explanation. I did have it set to 1/4 turn back out as per the manual. I will go back and fine tune it some. I can definitely tell there is a sweet spot I am not quite hitting.

I don't know if the bearing is there on my bike or not right now. When I bought it a few months ago it was leaking oil from the push rod seal and thanks to the information I found on this site, I pinpointed the problem and replaced it. When I did, I had the rod out, wiped it down and returned it. I don't remember a bearing there so it may or may not be. I realize going and looking is the best option.

I don't have a tachometer cable so I can't give any specific numbers. When I am shifting up through the gears, I feel like the top end of each gear is revving higher than the power I am getting from it. It feels like the clutch never comes all the way back out. I have only gotten the bike up to about 66 mph but it feels like I am pushing the engine at that point. I have ridden CVT scooters for a long time and manually shifted vehicles so I have experience through both of those but this is my first motorcycle and I haven't ridden any other motorcycles to have something to compare to.

If your rpms don't match your speed then I would say your clutch is slipping and you need to replace the plates.

I figured as much. Any suggestions as to where I might source them?

Thanks again for the quick replies.

I am an ebay fan myself
http://www.ebay.com/itm/CLUTCH-FRIC...XS400-2|Year:1979&hash=item43b89c61c0&vxp=mtr

I would wait for more confirmation that you should replace your plates before ordering as I've only heard that the plates is the cause of your problem no direct experience there.

If you pull your clutch apart check the thickness of the friction pads first. Next if the thickness is ok you can clean them with some break clean and a rag. Then the spring lengths and see if they are in spec. Now look at your friction plates. If they have any rust or glaze then you can either bead blast them or use a scotch brite pad to clean them. Also check them on a flat surface to see if they are warped. If everything specs out you just might need a good cleaning.

XChris, that is in the manual, anyone could read that in there. I bought my plates off of the www.partzilla.com $60 bucks, and the springs from mikesxs.com. Oh wow, the clutch plates are now Obsolete. WTF. Looks like the myoldyamaha, or ebay.

Springs from Partzilla are 18.24 plus S/H which is 7 bucks in the US. (25bucks)

Clutch plates from Mikes 7x7=49 plus 11 for springs = 60bucks, and S/H
Goodluck

I have the service manual. It's a big pile of jpg files. I will certainly be going through it for doing this work. This is all just sorting out the different issues, ie. is the difficulty finding Neutral related to the clutch slipping issue? Would using a better suited oil fix all of these problems without needing to take anything apart? Am I missing that little bearing and if I replace that will I all of a sudden have this extra boost of VROOM that isn't there now? I figure getting my head around how it all comes together will help me understand when it starts to come apart.

Thanks again for everyone's help. I will probably be pulling it all apart this weekend.

wmbozarth said:

Am I missing that little bearing

Click to expand...

Pull out the pushrod and dry the end. Now put a dab of grease on the end and send it back into the engine. Pull it out again carefully.The grease will grab the ball bearing so it should come out attached to the pushrod.

Or put a magnet against the pushrod, and it will pull the ball out if you go slow. I have a strong magnet for things like this. Works well. The ball will have to be pulled from the clutch side, it won't make it through the seal side.

The easier way to tell is where the pushrods seal has been rubbing on the rod on the left side. If the seal is is riding on the rod where it has polished it, and not where the rod is much farther in, then the ball must Be in there.

Proper adj has been covered: put all slack back into clutch cable at lever; undo lock nut under rubber plug on left side, turn adjuster in until it touches rod, back off 1/6-1/4 turn, take your pick, the tighten locknut. Then adjust cable properly. You're done. If clutch drags, either plates are warped, or oil is goo. Try oil first. If still drags, or slips, new plates time. Up front, I'd suggest Yamaha or Barnett plates. Both will last 30 years. Off brand stuff will not.

I believe you're over thinking this.


Keep the final oil change to really good oil until after you're done pulling things apart. No use dumping fresh expensive oil. Don't use car oil. I happen to use Mobil1 Racing4T 10-40 in all of my bikes, but there are other good oils. Just be sure they say rated JASO MA. I tend to favor true synthetics as these engines run quite warm, it just kills regular oil off sooner. Synthetics can take it.

http://www.xs400.com/forum/showthread.php?t=10687&page=2

Post 33, and I think 50, has attachments that go into depth, with Pics on how to adj the clutch. My wife did figure out that she like the Handle bar dialed out almost all the way out, for it to feel super easy. As far as the clicking feel or lack of... Could be one of a few things, either the the spring loaded do-dad under the or does the gear selector give the feedback for the click. Haven't figured that one out. seems once the 2 things have been adjusted, from that first mentioned thread, It seems to be the fix. (not always)

arfstrom said:

http://www.xs400.com/forum/showthread.php?t=10687&page=2

Post 33, and I think 50, has attachments that go into depth, with Pics on how to adj the clutch. My wife did figure out that she like the Handle bar dialed out almost all the way out, for it to feel super easy. As far as the clicking feel or lack of... Could be one of a few things, either the the spring loaded do-dad under the or does the gear selector give the feedback for the click. Haven't figured that one out. seems once the 2 things have been adjusted, from that first mentioned thread, It seems to be the fix. (not always)

Click to expand...

The return spring for the shift lever/mechanism isn't that powerful. If everything is clean and fresh, its job is to return the lever to center for the next shift, which it will. If someone bent the shift shaft a bit, it would bind. It could also have enough crud below the front sprocket or in the hole where it comes through the sprocket cover. Easy enough to tell with countershaft sprocket cover off, bike on stand and shift lever reinstalled. You can run the engine, and shift through the gears without the clutch with no load on the tire. That will prove if it is binding or not. It should shift easily (engine running) and the lever should return to center by itself when you release it. If not, find the bind: it will show up as a heavily polished spot on the shaft, just one side.

Don't set the play at the lever (with the rest of the clutch properly adjusted) too snug, the idea is to have the release mechanism not engaged when you're not actuating the clutch. But you want minimal play as well.

Go to a part seller and look up your bike and look at the parts fiche for the clutch. This may help you better understand how it works.
Pretty simple. You pull the lever. The cable turns the actuator worm, the worm pushes the rod. The rod pushes the pressure plate away from the friction and steel plates. Allowing the fibers and steel to rotate separately.
This allows you to stop the bike. Letting the lever back out lets you get the beasty moving. It also eases shifting once you get it moving.
I forgot, I posted a pic of the clutch.
On your choice of oil. If you look at the back of the jug you will find a place that has a bunch of ratings. Generally in the block with the Meets API Service stuff. At the end of the ratings is a JASO MA. This means the oil has been tested and approved for wet clutches.
Rotella T triple Protection 15w40 has this rating. At least on the jug I have in my hand does.
The stock clutch fiber plates are very robust. More often the springs are bad. The springs from Mike's don't hold up as well as other brands. Get springs from 650central. He has quality spring in differing weights.
On my 75 I had the beginnings of clutch trouble when it was a 650, the 750 kit didn't help it much. After many temporary fixes I ended up with new fibers but that was a last resort.
I found a set of Kibble White 70 lb. spring on Ebay.
The stock springs are around 50. Sacked out closer to 40. That's an about a 40% increase in strength. Even with the heavy springs, as long as I keep things well lubed I can pull the lever with two fingers. Not easy but I can.
leo