Supercharging

drewpy

Excess twin
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OK Folks, this is my next project on the tracker.

I present to you the Aisin AMR300 Supercharger

Aisin20AMR300_zpsegfrh45x.jpg


its the smallest of the roots blowers and pushes 300ml of air every revolution. It sbeen done on an SR500

sr500%20supercharged_zpshfkluiej.jpg


sr500%20super%20right_zpstzqrm8c8.jpg


I'm going to get the blower fitted first, then strip the engine and fit xjr1300 con rods and a lower piston.

going to take all year to do this so collecting the bits and will add to the thread as I go along :bike:
 
You need to dyno before and after. How many miles have you driven the bike after the rebuild?
 
Awesome!

Couple of thoughts:
The AMR300 is probably slightly over-sized for our bikes but is the only common roots blower small enough. Anything smaller would be rare or custom and expensive.
Are you going to under-drive it via pulley selection?

Is the idea behind the lower piston to decrease compression ratio? Any target compression ration in mind?

Blow-through? Suck-through?
Driving it off the alternator end of the crank?

Keeping the stock head gasket or switching to something strong?
I've looked into drawing up CAD files to get copper head gaskets waterjet/laser cut.
Could probably be done for less than any gasket shop would charge if the correct copper sheeting can be found.
 
I talked with a gasket shop, they talked me out of copper. Apparently it's overkill for anything other than exotic fuel motors that get torn down after each use. MLS with coated plates and sealing rings was recommend over the stock gasket. Was quoted $85 from my solidworks file. Price goes down quite a bit with an order of 5 or more.
 
Drewpy, I think with the pistons I'm using you would be happy. They work with the 5EA rods after the company reamed for the pin size. They are flat with slight valve relief, but for a boosted motor I think you would want to dish them more, or redo the chamber shape. With the stock bathtub squish, you'll run into major detonation under boost unless you run stupid retarded timing and race gas. And I'd hate to see the temps!

Rigging up an oil cooler will be needed, but I'm sure I'm saying things you already know ;)
 
Drewpy, I think with the pistons I'm using you would be happy. They work with the 5EA rods after the company reamed for the pin size. They are flat with slight valve relief, but for a boosted motor I think you would want to dish them more, or redo the chamber shape. With the stock bathtub squish, you'll run into major detonation under boost unless you run stupid retarded timing and race gas. And I'd hate to see the temps!

Rigging up an oil cooler will be needed, but I'm sure I'm saying things you already know ;)

thanks, I have an oil cooler :thumbsup:

remind me which pistons you used again?

stiil to work out the compression fugures, but I worked out the plennum size and pulley ratio which came out at .98:1
compression if left as is would be in the region of 15:1 :yikes:
 
You need to dyno before and after. How many miles have you driven the bike after the rebuild?

not bothering with a before dyno, its happening whatever and not spending $'s on curiosity figures.

going to get a rebore with XJR rods and new pistons
 
Awesome!

Couple of thoughts:
The AMR300 is probably slightly over-sized for our bikes but is the only common roots blower small enough. Anything smaller would be rare or custom and expensive.
Are you going to under-drive it via pulley selection?

Is the idea behind the lower piston to decrease compression ratio? Any target compression ration in mind?

Blow-through? Suck-through?
Driving it off the alternator end of the crank?

Keeping the stock head gasket or switching to something strong?
I've looked into drawing up CAD files to get copper head gaskets waterjet/laser cut.
Could probably be done for less than any gasket shop would charge if the correct copper sheeting can be found.

suck through as per the SR picture, drive it behind the alternator in line with the starter chain, but may change when the bike gets stripped

going to block off the oil hole bottom of crank as its not needed and will contaminate the belt.
2" pop off valve for backfires and electronic ignition. might go programmable to dial it in.

might also have to have a bigger rear tyre too :D
 
Being able to have boost retard on the ignition timing will provide a much nicer ride. Since you will be spending very little time actually running boost, it would be better to have the timing set for non-boosted operation.

Your project has me thinking about Micro-Squirt EFI again...
 
Looks like micro/mega squirt can do EFI and/or ignition timing?
Might be a good way to retard boost timing. Might even be possible to switch timing curves on the fly for boosted and non-boosted operation, or even tie it into a boost sensor that adjusts timing automatically.
Not familiar with it. Sounds like a headache.

If the e-advanced pamco ignition were used, pete might be able to provide chips programmed with alternate timing curves. No switching curves on the fly though.

I talked with a gasket shop, they talked me out of copper. Apparently it's overkill for anything other than exotic fuel motors that get torn down after each use. MLS with coated plates and sealing rings was recommend over the stock gasket. Was quoted $85 from my solidworks file. Price goes down quite a bit with an order of 5 or more.
My thinking there was to use copper sheeting thicker than the stock gasket to help lower compression ratio.
I imagine it'd be pretty easy for a shop to make thicker MLS gaskets to do the same thing.
With either option it could be an easy way to fine-tune the static compression ratio and prevent detonation.
 
Being able to have boost retard on the ignition timing will provide a much nicer ride. Since you will be spending very little time actually running boost, it would be better to have the timing set for non-boosted operation.

Your project has me thinking about Micro-Squirt EFI again...

I think you will find a supercharger pushes air at lower revs than a turbo. So boost is more or less on all the time, raising as the revs raise.

I can flick the pulley by hand and feel it pushing air.
 
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