New bars are in from TC bros. Fork seals are done, and lowered 1".

Removed the stock cluster and went with just the stock gauge, I think it's sharp on its own.

Prepping the frame for the 2.r gallon sporster tank I have coming in. Plan on just painting it clear coat to keep the stainless look.

I'm hoping the base of my bars don't hit the tank. And that the coils don't get in the way too much when mounting.
 

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Looking to remover my tachometer cable. The stock retaining screw was replaced with a bolt that is not snapped off. I plan on removing the head cover and side cover, then remove the worm gears and cable and reassemble. What I plan on using for a plug is yet TBD.

If I do this, will I have to make any adjustments to the head assembly, or possibly the ignition/timing?

Or is their an easier way?

Cheers
 
Almost done. Just have to line the tank and mount. Finish and wrap the exhaust. Then tune the engine this spring.

When you sit on this, its an amazing fit. Feels pretty natural. I'd say it's a kick ass bobber!
 

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For sure. As well, ox Motorcycle in town is having a vintage bike show in March. Should be good.

On the hunt for a front fender as well! If you see any, and if you'e in need of anything let me know!!
 
This may be a Longshot LOL another wiring question.

I have reassembled my bike. I'm able to kick it over and et it running. My headlight goes on and the high beam does work. My turn signals go on (but don't blink I suspect this is a ground issue)

When I go to use the electric start I don't even get a click and I don't get anything. My gut tells me that I've messed up in the wiring somewhere.

Can anybody share with me any likely suspects. I know this is a vague question LOL. I am suspecting it is somewhere from the battery forward on the bike
 
Painted bars? Your e-start switch grounds through them to the left side switch housing. Did you remove the indicator dash lights? That will cause issues with blinkers as it's part of the flashing circuit. Make sure you have a battery able to turn the bike over and the bike is charging at 14.5 volts when running.
 
Update.

I am able to start the bike from the solenoid (bridging posts). I'll grind the paint under the switch!

I did remove the dash lights. Didn' thing of that so I'll see about bridging the circuit at the head light!
 
Painted bars? Your e-start switch grounds through them to the left side switch housing. Did you remove the indicator dash lights? That will cause issues with blinkers as it's part of the flashing circuit. Make sure you have a battery able to turn the bike over and the bike is charging at 14.5 volts when running.

Chris,

I am wanting to remove the dash lights, unplugging them doesn't work as you know (lights stay light.) How can i close the circuit (not sure if that is the correct term) so I don't have the dash lights shoved into my headlight LOL
 
I would keep the neutral and oil lights at least. As for removing them I still have all stock wiring in all five of my bikes so I don't want to tell you one way or another on how you should change yours. I know you want a "clean" look for your bike but the oil and neutral lights are very important.
 
So this happened. Got and idea, and relocated the ignition switch.

Next is the new bracket for the Speedo (reason for this all starting.) I still have to extend the wiring for the switch, but I'll wait till I fab up the horn mount for the other side.

Not your typical xs400!
 

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Hey guys

I' trying to set the timing with the light hooked to the point and cooling fins.

I' starting on the left side. And the light will not go off no matter how far away from L TDC I crank the engine.
 
Have you set the points gaps?
Do that first then set timing. I struggled to get the timing right before I figured that out.
 
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