My 2 steps forward 1 step back bike build

Soda blast for the plates and brake clean for the pads. Always check for thickness and warp. The springs also need to be in free length speck. I have rarely found anything wrong with these clutches even on 20+k motors. Using the wrong oil or poorly adjusted is what kills them. Remember, they are always in oil.
 
Pulled the clutch out and cleaned them. Everything looks good, plates aren't warped and the pads aren't measuring any wear. 3 of the springs are right on and 1 of them is just under but still in spec.

Here's my one step back for the day though..when I pulled the cover the kickstart assembly came out...what's the trick to getting it back in?? I've been pissing with it longer than I wanted to and am not 100% sure how it's even supposed to go
 
There is a thread in the forum on this subject. I would use the search function and you should be able to find it.
 
There is a thread in the forum on this subject. I would use the search function and you should be able to find it.
Yes, get familiar ...remember to wind it all the way around. It will be tough, but you need almost 360 degrees to get on properly. while you have it out, look at the journal that it sits into, check it for cracks.
 
Hmm I thought I had it, but it comes away from the cover a little when pulling it back to engage. Is that normal?
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Yes, get familiar ...remember to wind it all the way around. It will be tough, but you need almost 360 degrees to get on properly. while you have it out, look at the journal that it sits into, check it for cracks.

The large metal notch should face towards the back of the engine right? Everytime I would almost get the spring around the whole thing would spin on me. Journal looks fine
 
The notch should be facing down, as a stop for the kickstart shaft so it wont keep turning forward. An easy way to wind up the spring is to remove the kickstart shaft and put the kick lever loosely on the end. This will give you leverage to wind the spring, then you can use needle nose pliers and wind the spring. Then you will face the notch down and with the spring wound up, put the shaft in its place. The gear should be turned all the way out and the clip that can turn freely should go into the lower slot on the crank case.

Then with the shaft installed, you should have strong tension on the return spring, and the notch on the shaft should be resting on the stop tab just below where the shaft fits in place, inside the engine.

I just did this about 30 mins ago when I went to reassemble my clutch.
 
After doing some reading, I don't know how I missed it but, I'm aware I should make sure the valves are adjusted correctly! The manual calls for intake .003 - .005 inch and exhaust .006 - .008 inch. Where in that range should I go, I've got all the sizes except .005
 
The notch should be facing down, as a stop for the kickstart shaft so it wont keep turning forward. An easy way to wind up the spring is to remove the kickstart shaft and put the kick lever loosely on the end. This will give you leverage to wind the spring, then you can use needle nose pliers and wind the spring. Then you will face the notch down and with the spring wound up, put the shaft in its place. The gear should be turned all the way out and the clip that can turn freely should go into the lower slot on the crank case.

Then with the shaft installed, you should have strong tension on the return spring, and the notch on the shaft should be resting on the stop tab just below where the shaft fits in place, inside the engine.

I just did this about 30 mins ago when I went to reassemble my clutch.

This should help a ton, the video I watched gave the impression the notch should face the rear, would make sense why it would just end up spinning around when I was trying to tension the spring
 
After doing some reading, I don't know how I missed it but, I'm aware I should make sure the valves are adjusted correctly! The manual calls for intake .003 - .005 inch and exhaust .006 - .008 inch. Where in that range should I go, I've got all the sizes except .005
I do 004 and 007 with the motor cold. Left side first. Make sure to sync the carb with a manometer after. Also make sure that the motor don't spin back when you set them only go in the one direction. This will cause slack in the cam chain giving you a false reading.
 
I do 004 and 007 with the motor cold. Left side first. Make sure to sync the carb with a manometer after. Also make sure that the motor don't spin back when you set them only go in the one direction. This will cause slack in the cam chain giving you a false reading.

Those were the sizes I was thinking I've already made a manometer so I'm prepared for it. Good to know about the cam chain, I read it and seen people say not to let it go backwards but never saw a reason, thanks!
 
I adjust by the widest point regardless of which stroke. Probably go through each side 4x and takes about 10 minutes. Ignition timing takes me much longer. Trying to adjust valves at TDC is a waste of time on these old bikes. I know the xs650 is a 360 degree crank, but I used to do my valves the same for that engine. It’s not valve timing, you’re not setting the valve timing—no one ever did on this bike. Because these engines are air cooled as opposed to water cooled, they have much bigger running tolerances. Everything grows a little more in a air cooled motor so don’t get too stuck up on valve clearances, but take your time with the timing. Make sure your feeler gauge is clean every time you insert.
 
I do 004 and 007 with the motor cold. Left side first. Make sure to sync the carb with a manometer after. Also make sure that the motor don't spin back when you set them only go in the one direction. This will cause slack in the cam chain giving you a false reading.
Exactly what I set at. Manometer next
 
Finally got around to getting it back together. Put the stock jets back in for a baseline, mixture screws out 3 turns. Can't rev it, bogs terribly when given any throttle. I tried the screws to 2 turns out and it wouldn't stay running . No difference between 3 and 4 turns out. I'm guessing I'm lean now? :Update: I swapped in the 45 pilot jets and it runs better but i'm 4 turns out on the mix screw, idles good off choke and revs, but hangs a touch coming back down and on fast throttle it sometimes does a sputter from the air cleaner.
 
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Finally got around to getting it back together. Put the stock jets back in for a baseline, mixture screws out 3 turns. Can't rev it, bogs terribly when given any throttle. I tried the screws to 2 turns out and it wouldn't stay running . No difference between 3 and 4 turns out. I'm guessing I'm lean now? :Update: I swapped in the 45 pilot jets and it runs better, idles good off choke and revs, but on fast throttle it sometimes does a sputter from the air cleaner.
You’re too lean. Get a laser temperature gun and check exhaust temp and cylinder jug temp. Bet you’ve got blue pipes
 
You’re too lean. Get a laser temperature gun and check exhaust temp and cylinder jug temp. Bet you’ve got blue pipes
What should the temps be around? Would I check at warm idle? The hanging idle when coming down indicates lean pilot circuit, it didn't do that before, does adjusting the valves have an effect on jetting needs?
 
What should the temps be around? Would I check at warm idle? The hanging idle when coming down indicates lean pilot circuit, it didn't do that before, does adjusting the valves have an effect on jetting needs?

190ish engine 230 or so pipes. Yes, it can run hotter but it should get to those temps within minutes. You’re really checking the difference between the two sides..... you want them to be similar temps. Watch it climb!

No, valve adjustment has nothing to do with jetting. Ever. I adjust mine in 10 minutes or less.
 
Valve adjustments can change how much compression your motor has. You need to sync after doing it. I get 265-285f at the exhaust side of the plugs on the head. Your jet needle is for the mid range of the carb circuit. What do you have your floats set at? Should be around 26mm if you have brass floats. Good diaphragms?
 
The diaphragms are good, floats are at 26mm. I was asking about the valves because I adjusted them same time I swapped the jets to stock and it didn't hang before.
 
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