Cafe build

The rotor is off a Ducati monster. Look on Ebay, there are tons of them. And Ive got a killer light that im gonna run on the tail.
 
Ok body work guys. I started on my tank while I'm waiting for a few parts to arrive. It had 2 good sized dents that I pulled and got them to where I can use a light coat of body filler. But my question is the sides of the tank where the emblems were attached, what would you suggest to fill these? As pulling these will mess up the tank because of the depth and how small they are. I was thinking about using lead. But figured I'd get your guys opinion.
Here are a few pics I snapped after pulling the dents.
019ptb.jpg

018osy.jpg

020cw.jpg
 
just filler... not too much of an issue to fill it and call it done, expecially if you are going to do the dents at the same time.

I agree, dont change a thing abojut your plans, it looks mint with the mag, rotor and low stance

also, I would stay away from a transition with the tank out of sheetmetal and make it out the seat itself....but then again making it look ducati is with some swoopy body work would be cool too

keep going!!!! :)
 
I Just didnt want to use filler for fear of having it crack, since it will be pretty thick.
And as far as the transition, im not gonna have one. I like the look it has with just the tail.
 
nope, the filler wont crack its super flexy stuff, when I hammered my knee dents I bent the filler that was in that same emblem spot, it didnt crack even when it was bent around and hammered
 
just an FYI, evercoat is just the brand name. it depends on what type of filler you decide to go with. some are alot more brittle like clay which is the root of the horror stories you hear but they have a purpose too. Sorry i can't be of more assistance to a specific product, its been 5 years since I was a bodyman
 
Yes the fiberglass based stuff is usually better, I've used that on a lightened jag nose that sees alot of flex, no cracking
 
Ive done a bit of body work and custom fiberglass stuff, I find evercoat lite-weight filler to be far superior to bondo. It sands way easier and there's hardly any pinholes. I plan on filling the tank where the emblem was, as well as doing some knee dents, using the lite-weight filler and some evercoat spot putty. I've had good success with those products in the past.

Also, did the monster rotor bolt right up? I'm hunting for a modern sport-bike rotor for my front mag too but having trouble determining what will bolt right up and what would require some sort of dual bolt-pattern spacer to make it work.
 
Yes they are holes. Im going to flatten the end of a copper pipe, and snake it in the tank as a backer and use my little 110v and weld em up. Ive done this on a few tanks and works great
 
Yes they are holes. Im going to flatten the end of a copper pipe, and snake it in the tank as a backer and use my little 110v and weld em up. Ive done this on a few tanks and works great

good idea, might use that one for future :thumbsup:
 
Dude this gonna be a good build. I am actually using the same rotors on the front of my build. Maybe I missed what kind of caliper ur using, but I am curious? Keep up the good work!
 
When I fill the holes I'll be sure to take plenty of pics and do a write up. Ive used that method on lots of different things that have thin sheetmetal and works great every time.
jdmjim- ill be using a caliper from a 2002 R1, or the infamous "blue spot" only my spots will be gold.
 
Ok, sorry for not posting lately guys, Ive had a ton of other things going on. But I ordered a ton of parts last week, so they should start trickling in slowly. I also bought a planishing hammer to build my seat in the next week or so. Ill try and post some pics this week of everything depending on what shows up.
 
note that if you replace the exhaust system by a 2x1 you rejet, I would not do, old machines are any error can cause premature death, as I like the esthetic with 2 silencers, but the bike is in your property ...
 
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