Recent content by MoonClipper

Habit on my part saying lines, plural :P My bike is also a single caliper with a single brake line.

I'd love to see some pics of the lines when you get them in too before you throw them on. If they're quality, I may order some for myself.

So due to something I won't go into here, I need new fork tubes. Does anyone have the diameter of the tubes? Specifically for the 1982 XS400 Maxim. Not sure if the sizes vary by year. My inner tubes are bent, so ideally I could find just some new inner tubes instead of a full set. I'm finding...

Go to harbor freight and get one of their cheap brake bleeders. I've had mine for going on 5 years and it's worked great. Can bleed brakes even on a car solo. Drain the reservoir first, fill with fresh fluid, pull pressure on the bleeder nut with the brake bleeder, crack it open until clear...

That long thing fuse looking thing is indeed a bulb, I can't remember where goes into the cluster off the top of my head though. Luckily the other bulbs are pretty standard, 194 bulbs. Some of the older bikes used bayonets I think. You can buy a pack of 10 LEDs for about $12 off Amazon. I...

One important bit, if your bike still has the trip knob it has a very small Phillips head screw inaide the center of the knob. Mine stripped pulling it off, so I keep my knob in my glovebox and just use it at the gas station when I fill up.

Those are light diffusers of a sort. Look at the white plastic piece where the gauge would normally be. They sit behind the cluster and the light goes inside then. I suspect the may also serve as a heat shield for the cluster, to keep it from melting. They're supposed to be glued in, but 40 year...

No adhesive is used. There's tow yellow 'gaskets' that can create suction though. All that's holding the cluster together at this point is the four screws. I pulled my spare out and pulled it apart real fast to show the stand offs they screw into.

I went ahead and circled them. You then have the two on each gauge next to where the cables go in to pull the gauges themselves out.

I believe you're missing the 4 screws that hold the plastic on. Two in the bottom middle, and one on each side of the corner area. Those four screws hold the plastic together. This is going off memory.

I've heard of others having luck making their own brake line. I recall there being a owner here that made his from Summit Racing, just bought the line cut to length and bought the fittings there as well.

I don't remember if it was mentioned, but you can pop open the little plastic cap (use a flathead screw driver) on the left side of the engine case just below your clutch cable. That's your main adjustment for the cable, use a socket to break the locknut loose, then use a JIS screwdriver (NOT a...

When you do the brake job I would swap for a braided brake line, it's a upgrade I've been putting off for way too long. Looks like you're running a OEM (or oem style) brake line, which isn't ideal. After 40 years the line probably isn't doing it's best job. The left cover is missing on mine too...

Make sure the solenoid is upright. Some of the cheaper Chinese solenoids will close when on their side/upside down. I know this from first hand experience. If you need to replace the solenoid, I've had a 1PZ solenoid off Amazon that I've been using and it's worked great for 6~ months (when I...

To answer the question: I've topped off my bike with motorcycle oil when it was leaking recently, had no issues. I run T4, I don't see how mixing would cause and adverse issues.