What did you do with your XS today?

Hey Willem, here's a picture of my monoshock adjustment tool:

20130607_174056_zps8b0d34fa.jpg


They call them "channel lock pliers" here, but I thought a picture would be better, lol
 
installed led turn signals and brake light, replaced clutch cover gasket, changed oil, replaced clutch cable, installed new seat pan/fender, started it for first time, rode 50 miles, wrote how to for making led turn signals work with flasher relay
 
Took head off to get a sparkplug drilled out, found head was cracked. New 250 head or complete 400 engine then......
 
nickso said:
Maybe not, there's not a lot to choose from round here it seems. Might even have to buy a complete bike if one turns up.
Click to expand...

really? everytime i look theres loads of 250s and not many 400s.
most are abandoned projects that the sellers want silly money for.
 
weemonster said:
really? everytime i look theres loads of 250s and not many 400s.
most are abandoned projects that the sellers want silly money for.
Click to expand...

Depends where you are in Scotland, it all seems to be central belt. Not much in Aberdeenshire that I have found. Nearest I can see today is Falkirk. :(
 
1lowdiesel said:
Built my 2-1 manifold.

7B8F482B-E9A2-48DB-B9FC-E34742DC1AAB-5464-0000057478A941AE_zpsd5d38732.jpg
Click to expand...

Not trying to be a jerk, but I see a couple issues with your manifold design:
- The runner for the right cylinder will cause it to run lean. The fuel will not want to make the turn and will try to go straight, to the the left cylinder.
- The right runner should be the same length or longer than the left, to have the intake pulses separated more. With the right runner being shorter, the pulses will arrive at the carb closer together, and have a longer period before the next pulses arrive. This will cause the manifold vacuum to spike and then drop, interfering with the flow through the venturi at idle and low RPM.

My (unsolicited) suggestions:
- make another manifold (I know that sucks...)
- make a plenum that the carb mounts to, then have both runners parallel before going off to the ports. Like a collector on a header, but in reverse.
- place the carb on the left side so that the right runner is longer than the left.

Sorry to rain on your parade...
 
I appreciate the insight. The inside of the manifold just after the carb adapter is set to run direct into the right cylinder. It's kinda hard to describe without seeing the inside of the manifold. But it will not have to make a turn so-to-speak in order to get to the right cylinder.

Why would mounting it on the left be any different than it being on the right? It would essentially be the same thing just in reverse. If it doesn't work then i'll make a new one, but i'm not jumping to any conclusions just yet untill i prove that it either works or doesn't.
 
I sure can appreciate the work going into your manifold. I was wondering though if you would use 2 90*bends to intersect 2" below the intake ports to another central 90* where the carb would mount. wouldn't that balance the intake runs for each cyl? And you could put a vacuum tap right at the junction for your petcock. Wish I had a picture or a sketch to show my thought. It would have to be kept close to the head in most applications.
 
Just another thought. Has there been anyone doing work with Fuel Injection for these bikes. I know many bikes are injected now and a Carb is becoming harder to find. It'd be a more precise fuel delivery system and it could be tuned for each cyl.
 

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