HELP: Removing Exhaust Stud Bolt

wester

wester

In way over my head
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Hi all!
New to the forum, Yamaha, AND motorcycle club. Exciting days!

Picked up a 1980 XS400 last tues and I still haven't been able to wipe the smile off my face.

Anyway... My question.

One of the exhaust stud bolts is broken.
I removed the pipe and most of the bolt is exposed.
I've read in all sorts of google searches as well as http://www.xs400.com/forum/showthread.php?t=6377&highlight=exhaust+stud on how to remove it once all else fails.... But you'll have to excuse my simplistic question...

If I'm able to put 2 nuts on it or turn it with vice grips or similar... should I just be able to turn it out like any other bolt? Lefty Lucy? Is it hopefully that easy?

Thank you for any help! (and dealing with my lack of knowledge at this point) :thumbsup:
 
Welcome to the forum. And the world of bikes and XSs. Great people on here. Very knowledgable. That being said, I'm not one of them lol. Do you have a picture of what you're talking about? I recently replaced my pipes(78) but it was fairly easy getting the nut/bolt off.
 
nico said:
I recently replaced my pipes(78) but it was fairly easy getting the nut/bolt off.
Click to expand...
I'm another one. Welcome to the Forum Wester. One of the experts who worked long into the night on an xs will awaken soon and be able to give you a definitive answer, no doubt.

Nico, you have half of the answer - when you took yours off easily was it lefty-Lucy or right-remove?

Wester, the fact that the head of the bolt is off may indicated either rusting or a PO who couldn't get the bolt to turn and snapped it. Which do you think?
If the later, then you probably are already trying to get some PB-Blaster into the join. Your idea of closing one nut tight onto a 2nd one to create a temporary bolt head is a sound one but it can only be as strong as the threads are - less so than a bolt head. So be patient and let the Blaster blast. Oh, and post pics.
 
Lou Ranger said:
Oh, and post pics.
Click to expand...

Here is the pic! :D
Snapped bolt is the closest bolt (center of pic)

I'll be headed to pick up some PB blaster tonight.
From what I know... the previous owner was removing the pipes and snapped off the tip the the nut fits onto. The other Pipe Nuts were able to come off no issues. So I'm not sure how this one stuck.

I know I'll have to order (i think) a new stud bolt, but can I just "back out" the one thats in there now? Are they threaded into the engine block?

Thanks both Lou and Nico.
 

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A good solution is to use some penetrating oil, then wait a bit, hit it with a propane torch, then try to remove it while it's warm.

If it's shorn off you can put a nut over the remaining bolt and tack weld it in place (wire welder 100 bucks) then remove while warm.

Good luck

Drewcifer
 
heat is def the way to go, don't worry it happens all the time.

if you have a stud extractor handy, that will do it to, failing all of the above, weld a nut near the ally and the extreme heat will free the stud from its position.
 
Excellent.
Planning on giving it a go after work tomorrow.

And I'm sorry for re-asking this... but that bolt is literally "threaded" right into the motor... and if I can get it to spin then it should come right out.... yes?

Here's to a hopeful easy answer.
And thank you for putting up with my newness. :thumbsup:
 
SUCCESS!!
PB Blast and vice grips. Excited to get this exhaust back in and hear it for the first time! :bike:
2012-08-11_13-34-09_482.jpg

WOOOOOOOT!
Thanks all who replied!
 
My exhausts are rednecked to the heads. You guys should see whatever some fella did to this thing. Literally welded a nut to the frame, put a bolt through it into the exhaust flange deal and tightened it hard to pinch it in.

That and a strange setup for a highway bar.
 
My mentor used a hammer and a fine pointed center punch to put a divot in the exposed broken bolt at 9 o'clock position , then he hammered at it til it came out clockwise. Goggles on!
 
Kroil is a life saver to remove stuck, stubbern, or broken stud and screws. It can penetrat deep into the threads and break down the rust or corrosion holding a bolt in place.
I have used the center punch trick and Kroil to remove broken screws by hand, no hammering. must of the time the heads sheard off and did not break will removing.
 
I've just removed mine,which were locked in tight...
Spin a nut onto the stud,then weld another on,then tighten the first back to the second.
Then heat the stud and exhaust port with a blow torch(I used MAP GAS) as it burns hotter...
Heat for a couple of mins,then you should be able to wind the stud out with a spanner on the FIRST nut.
If you can't weld,spin the two nuts on,then tighten back to each other...that may be enough.
You definitely need to heat the stud/flange to expand the metal and free the stud
HTH
 
A 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF is about the best penetrating fluid out there. Both available at the parts store.
Leo
 

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