New blinkers dont link

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Hey guys.

So I bought new signal lights to replace the stock ones that came on my '81 Yamaha XS400 because the stock ones are horribly ugly. I just bought some cheap knock-off Chinese ones (link is below). Once I installed them, The blinkers come on appropriately, but remain solid and do not blink. I wasn't sure if it's because I needed new relays or if I didn't ground them correctly.

The new blinkers obviously have a positive and negative coming off them, but the wires are green and blue, so was unsure which one was positive and negative, however, whatever way I touched the wires together, the lights turned on. I know that the stock setup has the ground at the nut that screws in the blinkers, but with the new blinkers I just wired them so they turned on, with either the blue or green attached to the positive and negative coming off the wiring harness.

Anyone know whats up?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E5VXI5E/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 
They probably are not standard bulbs. The flasher system requires a certain load to function properly. You probably need some resistors.
 
As the various suggestions, flow, the basics are the normal old fashion lights (non-LED's) use x amps. (see Manual/supplemental, the math is in there) Like Wolfb stated, the original flasher is expected the normal electric deficiet, to determine if the flasher is on, and when the autocancel will turn them off, (if your are still stock/original)

So what don't we know, what type of bulbs did you put in there? Can you validate that the bulbs are grounded to the frame?

is your bike wiring mod'ed? or stock.

if you did put LED's in there. Then like Wolf stated, a pair of resistors will allow the system to work, with minimum mucking about. However, you still lose out on the potential electrical savings you were attempting for.

So, Like the other posts states, 1, you will lose auto cancel if you go to LED, 2, you will need a flasher that will work with the less current draw of the LED's. Obviously the original flasher is expecting greater electrical draw.

Next. options I would recommend the Metric diode from superlightled website. I picked up their LED flasher/diode kit. (it wasn't expensive)

Option b, put in the normal lights. and see if that works. Great.

Method c, determine appropriate grounds, Before that, ensure the ground is going to ground, and that the positive is going to positve, and check for incidental grounding.

Generally the normal flaw is, such as either all on, or maybe hyper flash. Testing is easy enough

Good luck
 
I appreciate the responses guys. No, the bike is not modded in any way electrical wise. The new blinkers are not LED bulbs, they are incandescents. The new bulbs are 12volt and 10watts.

I have not tried them with the engine running, would that make a difference?

Yeah my first thing to check was going to be the grounds, but I figured I'd post on the forum to get some advice first!
 
When I put the LED bulbs in my LS2 I also bought their flasher to go with them. It plugged in just the same and they flashed really well except when they were off the indicator in the tach would stay on. I just took out that bulb until I could get another LED for it. I don't like using the resistors. I know your's are not LED bulbs so I'd almost have to believe that the lower draw of the 10W bulb is the issue. I used LED's on the little bike because the alternator was very weak and I was using a 7 amp gel cell battery.
 
Its the bulbs causing the problem. A quick search on those blinkers yeilds plenty of complaints about needing resistors
 
I'm fine with getting resistors, I just don't know which ones a would need or where a good place to buy them would be. Do you have any recommendations?
 
The new signals are 10 watts, 12 volts. Im not sure about the original ones..ill have to check that for you
 
Did I forget to post, the info is in the supplemental manual? page 14, or was it 17?
(see Manual/supplemental, the math is in there) Like W
Nope there it is. I suppose your computer can not read the PDF, or you don't know that we put the manual on the very top of the garage section,right next to the read this one first. If I remember right the Supplemental is in the lab, its a 45 meg download, from on off site resource. The original poster got bombarded with emails for the file to be emailed, Well after 3 months of that, he found that site, to host that file, and now occasionally we know who doesn't read any of the threads, base that they are requesting a copy to be emailed to them.

Sorry if I am coming off as a grouchy old man, who likes to wavy my arms at drivers that speed though my neighbor hood. The info is here. I love helping, really, recently I just dropped my college classes for a month, and have been spending time here now.
 

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I think the stocks are 27w a piece, in fact I'm almost positive. So there are a few ways to go about this in terms of where to put the resistors, 1 per side or 2, etc. But the easiest way IMO is to get 4 resistors, one for each signal. Splice them right into each positive wire. Here is what you need-
27w-10w=17w
17w/12v=1.41 amps
12v=1.41amps x R
R=8.5ohms

So, Grab four 8.5 ohm (or closest equivalent. You can probably get away with 6-10ohms, but you won't know til you try). As for the rating, they need to be rated over 17 watts.

We are talking some big ass resistors here. For what it's worth, you'd be better of getting a better flasher and taking advantage of the lower wattage bulbs.
 
thanks guys, I appreciate the help!!

I was very aware of the manuals on the website, but I was busy and I figured I would get to it later, thats why I said I'd get back to that!
 
I put cheapie low-watt turn signals on my XS last winter. They acted just like yours: lit up but didn't blink. Happily for me, before I got in a froth about resistors and such, I tried them with the engine running and voila the problem had solved itself.
 
Why not just buy a digital flasher. They aren't even expensive. Putting resistors inline is more work and pointless when you can just plug in a new flasher.
 
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