Tapping noise from cyl head

So I just bought a 82 xs400sj special. It's been messed with before. My buddy (previous owner) had some work done on it at a local "shop" well the guy said he adjusted the valves, when he got the bike back it started making a terrible ticking noise coming from the cyl head. Now where do I go with this? Could I just replace the valves, rocker arms? Springs? Had anyone else had this problem?

Did this happen within the past week or 2? If so, take it back to the shop who didn't do the valve adjustment correctly and get them to make it right. They can do it now, not next week. And for free. If the camshaft shows wear, they have the pleasure of replacing it, again, at their expense. If they balk, demand a full refund, in cash, now.

If this occurred more than 2 weeks ago (or what ever the local liability limits are), find a better shop or do the work yourself.

Yeah this was like a year ago he had this done. Be bought a newer ktm duke and forgot about this bike. Last week I mentioned to him that I wanted to buy it and now I'm here lol

I'd start with adjusting the valves. If that doesn't help, then you can look deeper and see if anything is actually broken or worn out- then just replace what needs replacing.

Any links on valve adjustment?

The free manual linked in the stickies has instructions.
Tools needed: 17mm wrench, 10mm wrench, small flat screwdriver, whatever size allen socket takes off the alternator cover, spark plug wrench, feeler gauges.

1) Bike on center stand (if you have one). Take the alternator cover (left side) off. Oil will drip out. Do not be alarmed. More will drip out if it's on the side stand.
2) Remove spark plugs- it just makes it easier to get the crank where it needs to be.
3) Remove tappet covers (17mm).
4) Rotate crank to the top dead center, compression, on the left side (line marked "LT" on the alternator. If there is play on both rocker arms, you have it right. If the exhaust rocker is depressing the valve, you are on TDC exhaust.
5) Loosen the 10mm lock nut.
6) Using the feeler gauge, adjust the rocker screw so there is slip fit on the proper feeler, intake: 0.08 - 0.12mm ( .003 - .005" ), exhaust ;0.16 - 0.20mm ( .006 - .008"). I always just pick a feeler in the middle and adjust to that. If anything, towards the loose end in the range is preferable. I leave the feeler in after adjusting to a slip fit while tightening the lock not down and make sure it is still the same slip fit after tightening.
7) Repeat on whatever volve you didn't start with.
8) Rotate the engine to right TDC compression, "RT" and repeat the process.
9) Put the covers back on.

If, while doing this, you can't get it set to spec for some reason, there are missing pieces or something is just not right, only then dig deeper to see if parts need to be replaced.

Keep in mind that there will always be a clickety, clackety with these, just as long as it's not loud or sound louder on one side than the other.

Remember to always rotate the motor to the left. If you pass the tdc mark DON'T turn it back the right to "catch" it. This will cause slack in the timing chain and give you a bad valve adjustment. My guess is that what might have happened already.

Thank so fellas, I'll try this when I get back from camping this weekend. I'll let ya know what I find. Thanks again

Dont use a socket wrench to turn the motor over... if you dont have a 17mm wrench go get a cheap one or use a breaker bar. Using a socket makes it far to easy for the motor to over rotate or swing back, ask me how I know lol. I spent 20 mins just trying to get it to LT mark before it dawned on me to use a wrench.