DOHC carbs removal UGH!

Still running on the stock filter set up. I've decided to leave the filters alone for now until I figure out where I am with the rest of it. As per a separate thread I installed an inline filter today. Not real happy with the setup. It really should be a filter with the inlet and outlet at 90 degrees to each other but it will work for now.
The good news is that the sun is shining and I went for a ride today. Pulls pretty good with a bit of roughness once in a while. Could be me, my last ride was a 4 cyl and was quite smooth.
I can't put it off any longer, I guess I'm going to have to start cleaning it up to see how it looks.
cheers,
Sandy
 
SandyR said:
... installed an inline filter today. Not real happy with the setup. It really should be a filter with the inlet and outlet at 90 degrees to each other but it will work for now .... Pulls pretty good with a bit of roughness once in a while... Sandy
Click to expand...
A 90º filter would be great, but if you google fuel filter pics, there isn't a single one made that isn't 180º. I got a decent configuration by removing a length that was slightly shorter than the gap created by the filter, but the real trick seems to be lucking out on where you make the gap so the filter doesn't drop down too far or not low enough.
As to a bit of roughness. You may want to consider subscribing to my philosophy that if it ain't broke, don't fix it and certainly, don't alter it.
 
I'll second the "if it ain't broke don't fix it". I've got lots of other things to do with it without trying to make extra work.
Sandy
 
willem said:
What I do is I make sure I loosen the airbox (not remove, just have it hang loose so you have some wiggle room), loosen all rings around the rubber in/outlets and then I take off the left outlet rubber (the one that mounts the carbs to the cylinders) using a very blunt screwdriver to have some leverage. Then just slide the carbs sideways and out to the right.
Click to expand...

OMG mine is still hanging loose on the air filter side after I cleaned the carbs...The inlet and outlet boots are so nasty looking now..guh

How do you loosen the air box? I'm probably missing something, I didn't see how. I was exhausted after 4 hours of struggling.

HELP!? :banghead:
Thanks
 
There's a big bolt under the battery which you'll need to loosen, as well as two under the seat on top near the frame. Careful with the bolt under the battery, there is a bushing inside the airbox which the bolt screws into, and that bushing can fall inside the airbox. Happened to me the 4th or 5th time I loosened the airbox, and it's a pain in the *ss to get to it once it falls in there. Just be a bit careful shaking the box when you get it loose and you'll be fine. The bushing is there to reinforce the air box there, since it has to support the battery.

Oh yea it helps if you remove the battery first, since it's resting on the airbox and it's quite heavy.
 
willem said:
There's a big bolt under the battery which you'll need to loosen, as well as two under the seat on top near the frame. Careful with the bolt under the battery, there is a bushing inside the airbox which the bolt screws into, and that bushing can fall inside the airbox. Happened to me the 4th or 5th time I loosened the airbox, and it's a pain in the *ss to get to it once it falls in there. Just be a bit careful shaking the box when you get it loose and you'll be fine. The bushing is there to reinforce the air box there, since it has to support the battery.

Oh yea it helps if you remove the battery first, since it's resting on the airbox and it's quite heavy.
Click to expand...

Thank you for your advice. I tried it today. Though it did not free up much room, and it was not initially evident as to how useful it is; it made installation much easier, as you can place the carbs in the correct position and simply push the airbox back into position. This places the boots easily onto the carb inlets.
It was still a struggle though, I wonder how they put it together in the factory; everything seems to have very little clearance.

Now I know how to remove and install it greater ease. Anybody know where I can get the boots? The ones on the intake side is pretty malformed.

Thanks
 
Just started fiddling around with mine, had them off the bike for a few weeks because I was dreading the act of replacing them. To get them off I just shoved the rubbers right into the air box, and tugged the carbs out the right side. Getting them back in was equally frustrating but I managed to reaffix the cylinder side in a few minutes once I got them roughly in place. I haven't hooked the airbox back up yet as I'm still trying to get the thing running, but I should just have to pull the gaskets back out. Easier said than done I'm sure. I'm doing this on an 82 Maxim, and I can tell you for sure I had no need to take out the airbox or anything crazy complicated.
 
Welcome to the forum Duke.
I haven't had to employ it yet, however, apparently there is a good trick with the dohc which maybe could be used for carb servicing. You put a small car jack tight up against the bottom of the engine. Then take out all the mounting bolts except for the bottom one. Then you can lower the engine with the jack and it will pivot on the one remaining bolt. When you're all done, raise the jack until the holes all line up and then replace the bolts.

I dread having to ever do it, but it sounds better than wrestling with the carbs ...
 
By far the fastest/best way is by tilting the engine. Was going to go to pods, etc, but after seeing how straightforward it is to get carbs in/out this way I stuck with stock.

With a good floorjack can just ease the whole assembly in and out. I do the separation/joining at the airbox boot to carb.
 
My air cleaner joints (the rubber between the air box and carbs) are starting to shrink so they don't have a good seal on the carbs. There are two flanges in the middle of the air cleaner joints, one that makes a seal on the inside of the air box and one that makes a seal on the outside of the air box. I actually shaved the front flange so that it has a greater reach towards the carbs. This has also made it easier to remove the carbs, albeit, not as easy as if I had pods.
 
Thanks for the feedback. My kid actually 3-D printed me a set of new boots! To make a long story short, in a fit of exasperation I destroyed one of my original, still flexible boots. I then bought boots on ebay only to find they were extremely brittle and shrunken.

The ones he printed work wonderfully! They are 95% stock in appearance and provide an excellent fit. With these and the "tilt the motor" approach have the bike runnning great. BTW using the tilt the motor approach takes less than an hour in and out by myself (with floor jack).
 
Did he get them done in some kind of gas/ethanol resistant rubber?
I've done a couple 3d printed things for the bike but am starting to pull molds of the 3d prints to cast in chemical resistant plastic or rubber.
Casting a new brake fluid reservoir soon. Have some velocity stack CADs to try some time.
 
Hi Sandy, I'm using the standard set up, for the airfilters. I'm trying to keep my 82 Maxim, as original as possible? I suppose that it's an English trait, for historical accuracy??? Haha! As here in England, bikes that are kept original, command higer prices here! But saying that, I got mine quite reasonably priced! I prefer seeing a bike turned out, as the designer intended it to look! Khon Do, I believe the Japanese, call it? Aestetic value, to the rest of us mortal's who don't follow the tenets of the "Devine Wind"!
Just my opinion, although, I don't suppose it's worth anything?

Merlin
 
Not so much modify as upgrade, keep the original looks if you like it but upgrade what us upgradeable....30 years is a lot in the engineering world...
 

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