Kick Start Locked Up

Mixed results out there today. I got the engine to fire a couple of times, but it immediately died each time. I started having electrical problems, so i bit the bullet and finally redid the fusebox. It was dropping my voltage like crazy so I feel really good about replacing it all.

After that, the first time kicking it over it started to sound strong and then immediately died. The battery also immediately dropped from 11v down to 7v. I couldn't get anything else out of it after that. I then noticed that after leaving the battery alone for a few minutes it jumped up to 9v. I hope when I go out tomorrow it will be back up to its nominal voltage!

The other weird symptom is that when I flip the engine cutoff from 'off' to 'on' the dash lights dim. I don't remember that happening before. Any ideas on what could be going on?

That switch will energize the ignition coils so there might be a slight dimming.
Wouldn't expect much with a charged battery.

Also are all your connections clean....I am dealing with a bike that has sat for who knows how long and the electrical is a nightmare.

I knew there was a reason I threw the factory harness away on my last build but trying to use this one as its pretty well complete. Planning on taking it all off and electrical spray all the contacts and use dielectric grease on all the connections.

And after having a few XSs that on off switch is always an issue.......it is prone to corrosion.

Yeah, all my handlebar switches and the ignition switch were full of spider webs, dead spiders, and corrosion.

BBS360 said:

Yeah, all my handlebar switches and the ignition switch were full of spider webs, dead spiders, and corrosion.

Click to expand...

Yep that one I just picked up is a corrosion disaster........ I have a new headlight switch and going to buy a new ignition switch to.......kind of want to use the factory harness.

Charged up the battery and with my new corrosion free fusebox now the electrical system feels good as new!

Got the bike started, but barely. With the enricher in the middle position and the idle throttle screw almost all the way in I got it to run for a few seconds (~250 RPM) before immediately dying. I held the throttle open when starting it and got it to keep running until I rolled off. 250 RPM isn't good but at least it's a start! Opening the throttle helped, so it's probably running rich, right? Although when I adjusted the enricher I noticed no change. I would think pulling it out would make my problem worse and pushing it in would improve my situation. (would love someone to teach me about that - or point me to a resource) From what the internet says sounds like I should pull the carbs off and give them a good cleaning. Maybe mess with the mixture screws? I feel like a moth blindly headed towards the 'clean your carbs' light and would love some responses to help educate me. Glad to have the rebuilt motor ticking though!

Yes clean the carbs then clean them again I just tore a set apart and did a quick cleaning just to see if the bike would fire and well going to go through them again with a fine tooth comb........

Tore them down and cleaned them, but not much change. The right cylinder fired up and I got it to 700 rpm, and after the engine warmed up I could start it without holding the throttle open.

The left cylinder didn't fire at all. Spark checks out. I sprayed some carb cleaner in there, but to no avail. Trying to think of why the cylinder won't fire - the only thing I can come up with is no fuel getting in there. If it was super rich i'd still have at least some combustion. Does this sound right? I want to understand so I can test and troubleshoot more effectively on my own without asking so many questions.

I pulled the carbs out for another cleaning (they say you have to clean and test them 3 times, right?), but I want to make sure I put them back together right. The only part I can't find info on is the disk that goes on top of the needle. Underneath the disk is a spring and the needle; on top of the disk is the big spring. How tight should the 2 little screws on this disk be? should the needle have a good amount of play under the disk or should it be squeezed down?

Grateful to have this kind of problem and not the problem from the beginning of this thread!!!

Have you checked the valves for adjustment? I just dealt with trying to get a old motor to go. Pulled the cover of and lined up the marks and well left side was tight as hell so re adjusted both sides and got it to fire. I was trying starter fluid also to no avail.

The disc that you are referring to is inside the diaphragm and the screws should be tight but don't break them off! As Spectra said, check the valve adjustment. I chased a no start problem for a long time because I didn't want to believe that the valves were the issue, I felt it was fuel. I adjusted them finally and the bike started on the first turn of the starter. Good luck!

Thanks for the tip! I Adjusted all the valve clearances this morning but not much changed. I learned a new skill though . And that both valves are sliiightly open at TDC on exhaust stroke (LOL made me nervous for a minute). Can't think of much else to play with to elicit a change, so I'll have one more go at the carbs and see where that leaves me.

Thanks all for the help! I've learned a lot so far. I am going to start a new thread because we aren't talking about 'Kickstart Locked Up" anymore, and I want to make pertinent information easy to find for future XS owners! I appreciate any advice or suggestions on the new thread at http://www.xs400.com/threads/starting-reassembled-engine.16871/

did you check your wires for continuity? Also, did you test your coils? Just a couple minutes with your multimeter might give you some answers

Thanks Pete, luckily all the electronics feel great now that I recharged my battery and replaced the fuses