Bike won't start

Sallison396

XS400 Enthusiast
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Location
Fort Leonard Wood, MO
So, I've had my 81 xs400 special since July, I've had some wiring problems, but overall it's ran really well. Since it started getting colder it got a lot harder to start, but I've always got it to start. Until now. A few days ago I tried electric start and kick start till I killed the battery. I hoped the battery was the culprit, but i got it charged and tested and it's fine. Brought it home, cleaned up the terminals and tried again. I'll get it to nya nya nya but it won't start. I've even tried a rolling start, it won't happen. And in doing that I noticed that it will roll fine in neutral, but if it's in gear with the clutch engaged, it doesn't want to roll. It fights it like the brake is stuck or something. Anyone know what to do, or where to start?
 
Not sure how cold it is in your area, but I can have trouble getting my bike started when its below 45 degrees. I try to save to starter as a last resort, or if I stall on the street. Using the starter takes a bit of voltage and when its cold its even worse.

But when its cold, I will turn the fuel on and pull the choke. I like to prime up the engine by kicking it 2-5 times until the oil light shuts off. then I will turn on the ignition and go for the kick start.

Condensation collects inside ( and outside ) a hot engine when the weather is cold. Ive seen my engine sweating in the morning on a few occasions.
 
What ya think about the clutch thing though? Wife made me go do stuff today lol but I'm gonna try figuring it out tomorrow. Idk if it's connected but I've never noticed it before so maybe.
 
If the clutch is improperly adjusted, it will not release completely. In that case, Id think it would definitely be slipping when you hit the gas.

Sometimes the clutch pack dries out and sticks to itself. With the bike warm and in neutral, you can try squeezing the clutch a few times to open and close the pack. this way, the discs will get some lubrication. You may be due for an oil change too or maybe try some different oil. Other times, because of condensation, the metal plates in the clutch will rust a bit and that will make it sticky.

You can easily remove the side cover and pull the clutch apart. You can clean the clutch and examine it all and then soak some oil on it and reassemble it. I don't recall anything needing to be torqued down so you should be OK with a couple of sockets. You will need to remove the kick starter and peg, and probably the brake. As you remove the side cover, try to keep the kick start shaft in place while you pull the cover. This is so you don't have to reset the spring in the shaft, which can be confusing.

Takes about 45 minutes.
 
The shop manual can be found on top of this page. Clutch is on the right side. You should probably pick up a sidecover gasket too. Ive removed the side cover before without having any leaks, but i was just lucky.
 
So I went ahead and just used clean oil and a rag to wipe them all down, then let them soak in oil for an hour or so. Some of them were a bit dry, not exactly dirty though. I won't be able to try and start it till I get paid though, don't have the money to buy enough oil right now. Where do I buy the clutch plates if I need to replace Some? There's a couple of the steel plates that might need replaced
 
eBay has complete sets, new and used.
Use a decent caliper to check wear level.

Walmart should have good prices on oil.
 
Can you get photos of the plates? They shouldn't show too much wear at all, but it all comes down to the measurements. Ive purchased oil from Walmart in a pinch. You can get a 5 quart jug of bike oil cheap and thatll hold you over for the season. New clutch discs are about $10 each, I think we need 7 of them. Clutch kits are probably cheaper, but Ive never purchased any of these. I would however, buy a used clutch. If the grooves on the clutch discs are still straight and sharp, its probably good to go.

I think I used mineral spirits when I cleaned the clutch. The mineral spirit is pretty much my go-to for cleaning. I follow that with denatured alcohol on some stuff too.

Id feel confident picking up a used clutch here in the classifieds page.
 
I soda blast the pads and green scotch brite the plates. Then brake clean after. Soak the pads in wet clutch type bike oil (20w-50) and that's it. Check the spring for the correct length and pads for thickness then plates for warp. Also in the clutch basket look for grooves where the plate and pads slide. There will be wear marks from use. Make sure that they are not very deep. This will cause sticking. These setups are usually good for a long time if you use the correct oil and have them adjusted proper. I have lots of good used clutch parts and baskets if you need some for cheap.
 
I'll pull the plates back out and get some pics before I fill her up with oil, I should have time after work tomorrow. I'll get some pics of the basket too, it looked alright to me but maybe y'all will have a better eye
 
So I've been crazy busy, but finally got a chance to mess with the bike. Decided to just grab some oil, fill her up and see if she'll start. No luck. Same stuff as last time. Can't even get it to turn over. Driving me nuts too, idk what to do next
 
Sometimes the starter solenoid won't hold when the start button is pressed.
Either faulty solenoid or the battery is discharged.
If it does it as soon as the key is turned might be an issue with the starter button or other wiring gremlin.
 
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