My XS400 "restore"

I don't know what the shop used. I think they go by what tire size you use and fit ones a bit smaller and larger.
 
I ended up getting Shinko 712 3.00-18 for the front and the Kenda K657 Challenger Street Tire - 120/90H16 for the rear. I will mount them myself and I bought balancing beads for the tubes. I will probably try to true the wheels myself also.
 
I went to the store and bought 10 ten (m6 16mm pan head screws, lock washers, and washers) to replace the two (m6 14mm pan head screws, lock washers, and washers), for less cost than a local place was going to charge me for oem parts, to attach the chain guard. Looked and worked great but I wonder for trying to get the most exact look as possible for the original fasteners what are the composition of the original fasteners as far as materials and grade. Zinc plated steel, stainless steel grades... etc Does anyone know? How do people feel about using Chinese fasteners on these Japanese bikes assuming the parts we buy from the dealerships and online yamaha parts house types sites already arent actually made in China?

xschris I just put an order in for a 2 lb container of flitz :)
 
I have always found the OEM parts even used are usually far better than anything else. Fit and quality are perfect, always. No mods ever needed. We should also keep in mind torque setting for motor and frame bolts will not be the same if using non-oem stuff.
 
Sure would. Problem these days is people over the years replace with aftermarket stuff or the wrong stuff making it hard to know what's right. In 20 years of having these things I'm still learning what that is. The only time I through away stock parts is when they are broken. Which doesn't happen often.
 
The bag with the O-ring is a top end seal kit. The red O-rings are for the cylinder base, the metal caps are lifter seals, and the 4 slightly smaller O-rings look like they could be for the tappet covers.
Here is another picture of all the items in that bag. There was a hole so I am not sure if anything might be missing.

I assume the 4 larger orings labeled A would be for the rocker plug seals. The others I am not clear on. If anyone know I would appreciate it.

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I assume not much I can use here without opening the engine up.

Side question: Does anyone know the factory color of the 1980 xs400g bike and how would someone go about trying to get one restored to that color? Possible DIY?
 
c is valve stem seals, d I think is dip stick o-ring, a is tappet cover o-rings, I think e is the right side rocker shaft o-ring. There should be two, one for each one. B is the cylinder base o-ring.
 
The 80G only came in one color NEW CATALINA BLUE was what yamaha called it. You would need that paint code as you wont find a match in any store. Keep in mind the side covers are plastic and faded from many years so match both will be hard. My suggestion is to just clean what you have and let it be. It's still stock paint and correct. Anything else other than factory would not look the same. I have seen nos tanks and cover but prices are crazy high.
 
I know a lot of people that have gone to paint shops asking for what ever they had left over to paint there tanks for cheap.
 
Yes side covers are also painted but shows a little different because it's on plastic. Yours are not stock paint. Looks like a bad home job.
 
The tank has a small dent there. Either gas was spilled and not cleaned up or the oring could be leaking.
 
Thanks xschris. I will look into that definition before the tank is going to be refinished.

I have been working on my fork tubes. I'm waiting for my seals and dust boots to come into the dealership. But while waiting I have been cleaning up the lowers.

Here is a side by side of one that has been mostly done compared to the other.

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I have actually done a bit more work on both of them. This was after the initial polish and I have since polished and buffed both.

They arent perfect but are good enough for me.

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I actually used a 120 grit roloc ceramic bristle pad on them to remove the initial layer of oxidation and followed it up, on my bench grinder, with a polishing wheel with black polishing compound and then a buffing wheel with white polishing compound.
 
The only problem with having them that polished is that if they ever get wet or go through a warm and cold cycle they will end up all oxidized again. If you can store the bike in a warm dry place over the winter you will be fine.
 
The only problem with having them that polished is that if they ever get wet or go through a warm and cold cycle they will end up all oxidized again. If you can store the bike in a warm dry place over the winter you will be fine.

I saw where someone mentioned painting them with a clear coat so I was thinking about doing that. I don't know if that will help but yeah.
 
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