New bike for a friend

You need the ones with the holes in them. Them are called bleed type. Make sure to buy only real mikuni jets all others can and often have poor manufacturing and the specs are off.
 
Pilot jet plugs are a little hard so I will probably replace those. Plus the pilot jet's themselves look different from each other. One has holes in the side and the other doesn't. Is this an issue?

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Ok. I got the replacement carb boots and the gaskets. Do they require any sealant or anything when you install them onto the bike? I assume no but wanted to ask just in case.
 
Just use some grease on the gaskets. This helps if you ever remove them. I also think it make for a better seal as it makes them wet and more soft. After they get hot what wasn't trapped between them will just melt away.
 
Ok. So I finally got the carb boots and the carb put back together after cleaning it. Wiring is still a mess on this bike. I had trouble putting the carb float pin back in. I created a device to allow me to really hammer the pin in but then I thought about the post where xschris was saying he uses the pin from a slightly different carb or something so I punched the pin out and I actually put it in a drill and hit it with my sanding wheel to shave the dimensions of the pin down slightly. Once I did that I could easily slide the pin in. The starter button is jacked on this bike. xschris do you happen to have maybe the internals of a right-hand kill switch. Basically just looking at the starter button portion. Everything else appears to be working just fine.

But here is a video of it starting. At the time of the video, the needles were 2.5 turns out. Now they are 2 turns out.

 
I have the e-start button and wiring. I think it's from a 80-82 sohc bike. $15 and it's shipped to you.
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Can you throw in the off run off switch component as well? While I was looking at this one as it only turned in one direction I saw the component behind the switch was cracked and then it crumbled into pieces lol. I glued it back together but I would rather replace it.
 
It came off one of my bikes I was running a few weeks ago because it was missing a bit of the orange in the middle. No cracks and was cleaned and lubed when I went over the bike. $5 for it.
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Did you find the boots to be stubborn when you put them on the carbs? Ive gone through several sets of aftermarket boots because the seating lip inside always tears off. Those brass nipples always seem to slip and push inside the body when you hook up a sync gauge. I let them sit in the sun for a while so they soften and then rub a dab of lube on the lip. I have a new original set of 360cc boots I am holding off on...

You will have to modify XS360 boot cages very slightly at the notch cutout for the brass nips, if you use these.
 
The brass nipple did slip in so I super glued it. Not sure it will hold up so we shall see. For the 12 bucks I figure it was worth the risk.
 
What are you doing with the front end of the bike? Replacing springs? I highly recommend progressive springs and not using the saggy old ones. Use proper fork oil too. Cant go wrong with that setup. I cant verfiy at the moment but I think I chose the softer progressives. If you do that, may as well do a tapered neck bearing upgrade and brass swingarm bushings.
 
I'm rebuilding the forks on my bike. I'm going to use 20w oil. I am not going progressive springs but I am leaving that as a possibility if I need to do so.
 
It came off one of my bikes I was running a few weeks ago because it was missing a bit of the orange in the middle. No cracks and was cleaned and lubed when I went over the bike. $5 for it.
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xschris you are a professional here. I opened it up and I thought man this looks great... the old one showed surface rust and such and I assume the one on my bike also shows surface rust... now I am thinking I should open mine up and inspect clean and lube it up good just like this one. This worked great. Thanks!

Then I came back to this thread and saw where you said you cleaned and lubed it... pretty thorough.
 
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