78 xs 400 E rebuild and modify

Just prepping for paint today.

Questing regarding the rear shocks...

Are these caps decorative?
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And would it be safe to reassemble them without?
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I kind of like the look without them.
 
They do help keep things aligned. I ran them without for a while but went back using them. Don't leave out the rubber bump stop. It also helps keep the slide from dirt/rust build up. Make sure to put it back together tight with the lock nut. They can go loose.
 
Paint really does bring an old bike back to life.

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Based on previous experience with VHT Rollbar paint, I used again with this bike. Satin black was the choice.

Still a few more parts need painting yet but the parts needed to get this rollin again are done.

I also have a shipment of parts in the mail, hoping they arrive in time for the weekend.
 
This wknd I made a table stand, from random lumber I already had, so I can reassemble the bike easier.
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Also I got some parts in the mail.
New handlebars
Shinko 712s and new tubes
Front wheel bearing and seals
Fork seals

And now it's starting to look like a bike again!

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Those are it. They look a bit messed up. I see your in Canada. Shipping will be a fair amount more than if I just try to find some in the states. Thanks anyway.
 
I could maybe send em through letter mail? I'd just wrap them in something as to not puncture the paper. Wouldn't cost more then a stamp, just no tracking. I can ask the post office if you like?
 
Wont work in an envelope. Need to be flat like paper for that. I do a lot of shipping it would need to be in a small box or a larger padded envelope.
 
What kind of clearance do you have between that rear tire and the underseat electrics box? In the photo it looks to be an inch more or less? I know that the axle is at the front of the swingarm slot but still you may have interference issues with the bike assembled and rider weight compressing the suspension.
 
What kind of clearance do you have between that rear tire and the underseat electrics box? In the photo it looks to be an inch more or less? I know that the axle is at the front of the swingarm slot but still you may have interference issues with the bike assembled and rider weight compressing the suspension.

Good eye. Thanks for bringing it to my attention. There wasnt enough clearance with the shock fully compressed.
 
Thanks to mototroopers keen eye I had to adjust my electronics tray.

With the new tires I was about 2 inches shy on clearance. So I came up with this solution.
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Took a little bit of puzzling over and a few measurements and double measurements but it turned out decent. I think it looks even better. The fuse box with sit on the angled piece. Kinda cool and functional.

Now the tire clears with the shock fully compressed to the rubber stop.

Thanks again mototrooper for pointing that out.
 
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More parts came in yesterday.
Sprockets and chain.
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The paint on the rear caliper was a complete disaster from obvious brake fluid spills over the years. So I stripped it bare and decided I like it without paint.
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Will end up stripping the front caliper as well.

Also brain storming some ideas for a way to mount a seat pan. And decided I'm going to put a bridge back over the rear, for extra support if a passenger is riding along.
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I measure and there is a 1/4 in clearance under it while the shock is fully compressed. I'll be making the seat from fiberglass so it will be able to fit exactly and mount to the bridge support.
I by no means want a thin seat. I plan to ride this bike. My seat will probably sit about 4 inches thick with pan, foam and upholstery. The foam over the the bridge will have to be slighty thinner but that's fine as a passenger won't be a common occurrence. Plus I want the seat height even with the taillight.
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I just need to figure out a way to make a back sealing plate for the taillight that can can be mounting at the same time.

I'm thinking of using led bulbs in the taillight with a custom way of mounting them internally, so I can have the back plate flat instead of bulged like the original...hmmm
 
Ok so I fabricated my own taillight/license plate bracket. Wanted it to be sturdy so I went with 3/16 steel.
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I used the oem gasket to trace out the back plate for the taillight.
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Then I cut, bent and shaped the bracket.
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Then drilled some holes in the loop. Also found some left over oil seals from a gasket set when I did the head gasket on my vehicle last fall. Using them to keep the bracket snug and water proof the holes.
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And that's that. Turned out good for my needs. I put some paint on it after the pictures.

Also I won't be using the oem bulbs. I see on Amazon you can get tiny waterproof LEDs that will work inside there.

One more thing off the list.
 
If youre using LED, you need to use the actual color of the light you want. LEDs for brakes need to be red, turn signals need to be amber. It looks really bad if you use a white LED behind a red lens.

On my bike, I use a side mount license plate bracket with an old Ford tail light. I use these LED lights because they are combo lights.

The are a running light, brake light, and license plate light all in one and I like that they fit in the original light sockets: https://www.superbrightleds.com/mor...MIlLyoz9zs5wIVGaSzCh3-jgbIEAQYFSABEgKGl_D_BwE
 
I have white led 1157 bulbs I got from Walmart many years ago and they look fine. Nice red brake light and night white light for the plate. The stock bulbs are clear. The led are far brighter and much less power.
 
That's a pretty cool bulb.

I was hoping there would be an alternative to an 1157. I wasnt planning to use the original bulb sockets, hoping to use something smaller because there isnt enough room behind the flat plate I made.. But now realize that I do need a dual filament bulb not just any LED. Or would putting 4 small LED diodes in there, 2 as the running light/plate light the other 2 as the brake light? And make a little bracket to hold them internally with the light fixture?

https://www.amazon.ca/50pcs-Ultra-Bright-Diodes-Light/dp/B01N0PWEWG?th=1&psc=1

And if that isnt a good idea, I suppose I can still use 1157 bulb and socket but just figure out how to mount them slightly deeper within the fixture...

Just brainstorming out loud, so any criticism is welcome...
 
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