I took a tumble :(

Blame the hippies.
Lou, take a look at your adjusters - as you screw the bolt in, it pulls the axle backwards. Once you're all the way in, there's no where else for the axle to go.
Did hippies design these things? It all looks backwards to me - even when I checked out the actual adjusters this morning. I thought maybe the bolts had reverse threading, but not so.
I almost look forward to my first chain adjustment so I can watch how these things work. Maybe Tue when I hope to try installing the 17T.
 
Did hippies design these things? It all looks backwards to me - even when I checked out the actual adjusters this morning. I thought maybe the bolts had reverse threading, but not so.
I almost look forward to my first chain adjustment so I can watch how these things work. Maybe Tue when I hope to try installing the 17T.

there's a slot in the swing-arm for the wheel axle to slide fore and aft thus tightening/loosening the chain.
 
The bolts are simply metric bolts. I think they're m4 bolts. I went and replaced one of mine because it was badly bent. I want to say it was an m4x 85mm bolt. bring the old one and get two new ones. Keep the nut inside. Hope that helps

Drewcifer.
 
Did hippies design these things? It all looks backwards to me - even when I checked out the actual adjusters this morning. I thought maybe the bolts had reverse threading, but not so.
I almost look forward to my first chain adjustment so I can watch how these things work. Maybe Tue when I hope to try installing the 17T.

do you think you'll need a longer chain with the 17t front sprocket? Can i get sprockets from mikexs? (i.e. would a 17/36 combo for a 650 fit my 400?).

also the screws holding my cover on are almost stripped and i'm quite certain they will strip if i try removing the cover, any ideas on how to avoid this and where i can get new screws (preferably hex).

 
Your best bet is to use an impact tool to take them out. If you don't have one, use a screwdriver of the same bit and a hammer to push the bit in and bite into the metal. I've taken apart some seriously stripped bolts using this second method out of 45 year-old barn-find crankcase. It worked like a charm even though I was sweating buckets the whole time.
Replacing is easy. Go to your nearest hardware store with the fasteners in hand and ask them for replacements with the same dimensions.
 
do you think you'll need a longer chain with the 17t front sprocket? ... would a 17/36 combo for a 650 fit my 400?
also the screws holding my cover on are almost stripped and i'm quite certain they will strip if i try removing the cover, any ideas on how to avoid this and where i can get new screws (preferably hex).

Hi Petei, Check out the advice I got on page #2 of this other thread - http://www.xs400.com/forum/showthread.php?t=7592&page=2
Just like JARichmond says, the manual impact driver is fantastic - well worth the $10 or $19 or $23 you may have to pay for it. And because you control the force, you likely will save the heads and will not need to replace the bolts. Use the larger of the bits with the blunt snub nose and it should grab just fine. Hold the tool on the head with counterclockwise pressure until it is pressed tight before you give it a whack. That worked each time for me after I learned to do it that way. Hitting it without turning and holding it (which I did first time) didn't work.

On page #3 of the same thread, all the guys say I would not need additional links - I would just need to move the axle forward by 5/16". If you add a tooth on both front and back, then I assume you will need to ensure that you can move the wheel forward by 5/8". If not then I guess you'd need a 101. Am I right guys?

I read (on some other thread) that you need to be careful with parts for the xs650 - but I don't recall if that applied to sprockets. Both bikes may use the same 530 chain - though I'm not sure of that either. You should be able to order the parts one-by-one from a bike shop like I am doing - then you would know that they are compatible with the xs400.
 
Your best bet is to use an impact tool to take them out.
Petei, here are a couple of on-line places:

http
://www.princessauto.com/pal/category/1000-360-005-020-025/Impact-Drivers
http://www.amazo
n.com/Lisle-30200-Hand-Impact-Tool/dp/B000P0TZ9W

I got mine at the local CarQuest store. They ordered it in (overnight) for me and while the retail was a couple of dollars more, there were no shipping charges to pay. I've used it over and over since - and on other things besides the bike too. Fantastic tool!
 
The plastice casing is cracked pretty bad, the gauges themselves are ok, if anyone has a gauges set for sale let me know. I may pick up the mini gauges from partnmore



i'll be :bike: again in no time.
Don't know if you've resolved the gauges -vs- chain/sprocket issue yet Petei, but if not, I discovered a way to repair some cracked plastic components.
I used a small, plug-in soldering iron with a slot-tip and was able to "weld" the crack together.
If you have a scrap piece of similar plastic (or can cut a superfluous piece from the housing) you can even reinforce the repair in a critical spot or 2. Worth a try if you want to save money and use the stock gauges etc.
:smoke:
Do it outdoors, stand up-wind and hold your breath while "welding" though.
 
Thanks for the info, I've decided to use the stock gauges, I repaired them using quick drying epoxy that I borrowed from work. They are all attached now, my light came in friday but I'm away for the weekend so tuesday things should get attached and I'll be riding. When I hear your verdict I'll make the decision to go with 16 or 17 T. And I'll be installing a new chain and sprockets.
 
I'm away for the weekend so tuesday ... When I hear your verdict I'll make the decision to go with 16 or 17 T
Are you sitting under that permanent black cloud - or is that back in the Laurentians?
Near my house there are a couple of very steep old roads coming out of the gorge the Credit River cuts through the Niagara Escarpment. I intend to ride hard up them with the 16, then the 17 and see if there is any difference - then report.
Vive le week-end!
 
Are you sitting under that permanent black cloud - or is that back in the Laurentians?
Near my house there are a couple of very steep old roads coming out of the gorge the Credit River cuts through the Niagara Escarpment. I intend to ride hard up them with the 16, then the 17 and see if there is any difference - then report.
Vive le week-end!

fortunatly that is back cloud is in the laurentians. i'm in vancouver right now. looking forward to the results of your test.
 
I had a '69 Kawa H1 years ago,had it modified,and put a 1 tooth larger sprocket on front,and it was phenomenal, once it got rolling it pulled hard and kept on until redlining.I never redlined it in high gear,but got it to 140 mph a few times[wasn't redlined or even close,but was pulling hard]. I backed off due to common sense,and maybe a little fear! lha
 
So i'm still alive, Met a girl and been a little distracted.

The bike is running, a couple a things that still aren't tip top but she is on the street and awesome.

I still need to replace the sprockets and chain but that is only going to happen by the end of the summer.

Here are some pics of what i've done to her and how she looks right now



 
haha I would never allow such a thing...:)

Road Test Today, if i pass i'll have my full class 6... nervous but worst case i have to take it again.
 
Looks good, but maybe a little off (could be the pictures?)

Is your front fender straight?

And your handlebars - is the left (right in the picture) lower than the right (left in the picture?) Take two levels, and compare level at the triple tree to level at the handlebars...
 
THe fender was not straight in the pictures, but it has since been fixed. i'll double check the handlebars, thanks or noticing
 
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