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Oh I should let you know I did get it out today and I didn’t realize how loose the clutch had gotten. It’s like a completely different machine! Well not that much but still it’s a noticeable difference. Thanks!

Wanted to let you know that I got it free and made my adjustments. I’ll get it out again shortly to test it out. Thanks Buddha - wisdom is appreciated!

Okay. I guess I’ll just have to keep at it. When the mechanism started moving it made me nervous. Thanks for the reassurance.

Quick question - is this one of those "left to tighten, right to loosen" situations? I find when I'm first trying to break the jam nut free it's not coming easily (may be due to age) and I found when I turn it left, it's turning against the spring mechanism and back feeding the clutch cable. I...

Ahhh okay. That would work. I’ve got what it takes then. Thank you for your wisdom!

I realize that photo is a bit dark so I've updated it here. What I'm perplexed by is the need to do this: Loosen the adjuster screw locknut (highlighted in orange) in the casing and turn the screw (highlighted in blue) clockwise until slight resistance is felt. Back off the screw about 1/4 turn...

Hey everyone. I’m finding my clutch is slipping a bit under load at speed so I’m looking to adjust it. I’ve got a bit of a problem, though. After opening up the access cover I see I need to adjust a screw and a nut but I do not see any way to adjust the nut while not also moving the screw. I’m...

How did testing go on this? That's wild!

Hey thanks. I did end up finding some on Dime City Cycles, which is actually MikesXS. I thought I had updated this thread with that information but I guess not. I also ended up getting proper plug caps there too so it’s all good now.

Thanks for this guidance! I had a gut feeling that I had a slow draw somewhere but after testing it (and validating by turning the ignition on) I found I actually do not have a draw, which means I can cross something off my list. Thanks again! Also, I’ve found mine starts easiest if I’ve been...

As have we all :laugh2:

I also found some new non-resistor caps over at Dime City Cycles: https://www.dimecitycycles.com/yamaha-xs650-ngk-plug-cap-lzfh-non-resistor.html

To follow up on my comment, I found this: A wire with high resistance can be in the 5000 ohms per foot range for especially high-output ignition systems, whereas a low resistance performance wire could easily get double digit ohms per foot. Lower resistance means more of the ignition coils...

Yeah. I know that much at least lol I assume it means less spark. I’ve been able to ride for a short while but after the engine is hot things go sideways quick. So I’m wondering if spark resistance is even something I need to worry about at that point. I’m going to go back to Yamaha spec as...

Like Buddha said, sometimes is even more fun to see the thing from the inside out! Post some photos! And welcome!

My question is more - if I have resistors in the plugs and the caps, what does that end up causing? Any idea?

On my journey I’ve made a few fumbles - one of those being picking the wrong spark plug. In my naivety I accepted an eBay sellers statement that the BPR7ES superseded the BP7ES thinking “R” just meant better. Like R for racing! Yeah. Anyway, I found one other seller that has a set of two and...

Okay. That’s what I thought after some further reading and I’m glad you’ve confirmed. What happens then with what I did? I have the BPR7ES with some 10k ohm caps. I’m wondering if that’s playing part in what my experiences have been lately.

Hey xschris! I’m a bit confused on plugs right now and was reading this thread as part of my research. I bought some BPR7ES thinking they were BP7ES and have been running them. I still was having some issues and in further digging I also found my caps are resisting 10k-12k ohm. So in an effort...

Oh okay then. I guess the saga continues! :laugh: Thanks