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How did the steel plates look when you changed the friction disks? The only other thing i can think of is double check the clutch cable adjustment and lever freeplay?

If it were me, I'd try using a washer, maybe of aluminum or copper/brass, sized so the inner diameter fit the rod with only a little play and the outer diameter to fit inside the seal and let it act as a centering bushing of sorts and see how it lasts. Perhaps even drill a small hole in the...

Near as I can tell, the yamaha part number is 2a2-14923-00 and partzilla claims to have 2 in stock. https://www.partzilla.com/product/yamaha/2A2-14923-00-00?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjw_e2wBhAEEiwAyFFFo0y9WDYEHYLGC9bL3XRJRSdBA3z_nDhKtc96IjxzZP8AiKPhe3x7nBoCLjUQAvD_BwE

I used a TransPO brand C8313 Heavy Duty Adjustable regulator on mine and it's been working great. Pick up the pigtail for it as well for easy wiring it in.

Maybe someone's idea for a hidden kill switch? It doesn't look factory with the tube clamp, corrugated loom cover and zip tie.

When I cleaned my carbs, it took 3 attempts to get everything thing clean. In the end, I took a single strand of some 12 gauge multistrand copper wire and use it like a ream. It pushed out quite a bit of gunk from the pilot jets. I used it in every passage way as best I could as well.

Yamaha calls it the clutch cable holder.

Some of the online retailers have a pretty good parts catalog. Helpful for finding the part number then searching ebay. https://www.yamahapartsnation.com/oemparts/l/yam/50041ea6f8700209bc7868fb/1980-xs400g-parts

Nice! That's pretty much what I use mine for and also live in the Philly area, in the NE, near Huntington Valley.

I had similar issues when I rebuilt mine last year. I bled mine while still mounted on the bike but I found tapping the body with a screwdriver handle caused bubbles to percolate out of the openings in the bottom of the reservoir. It took a while of slowly pumping and tapping to get fluid to...

You can find electronic ones that will use a pickup wire that you wrap around one of the spark plug wires or a traditional negative wire of the coil style. Often they have a switch for the number of cylinders, but this would be more geared towards automotive, shared coil engines. With...

I'd agree with the captain. I put a new non-oring chain on last year without any issues, the original chain had 14k miles and 45 years on it. The cases aren't very thick, so I don't think it's worth the potential damage.

Just uncovered my 78 and fired it up. It was a little grumpy but it coughed to life and seems to be running well. I fired it up last back in January on a 20 deg F day and it was missing. Guess it was just too cold. About to taker it out for lunch for a pre-season shake down. And I don't want to...

I'll guess a coffee station attachment with donuts, what else could possibly make other commuters happy? :lmao:

I doubt they would have the same shaft diameter and spline count needed or mounting bolt locations. But maybe the brushes could be scavenged from them or something. Parts houses are pretty good with interchange information and they'd list other models if they were compatible.

Then your solenoid is probably still good. To eliminate the wire, jump positive right to the starter terminal.

I usually just use a screwdriver across the big lugs.

You can try putting a jumper ground wire to the starter body while jumping the solenoid posts too. Maybe the motor got loose or some corrosion on the mating surface is restricting the ground.

Those are JIS head screws and do yourself a huge favor and purchase a proper JIS screwdriver off Amazon or similar shopping site. It makes removing them infinitely easier than using a Philips and won't bugger the screw head.

I assume the dohc uses a similar starter clutch as the sohc motor with spring loaded rollers. The springs can brake and the rollers done grab the crankshaft. Some have had the housing crack too causing a similar issue. I had two of my springs break leaving the clutch to sometimes grab and...