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I know that any year back to '77 will match up but you would need the nut ring from that year. Mine from '79 were reversed in style from the stock '81 exhausts. It's helpful if you can find the ring and gasket with the headers so you know it will all fit together well. My stock gaskets did...

I found a pair of '79 headers for mine. They fit correctly and aren't joined by the crossover pipe in the middle. Try to find a pair that come with the metal gaskets and the nut rings (the metal collar that holds them to the engine block) since the '79 has a different style than the '81...

I'm just about done changing my little guy into a proper 70's chopper but I need one thing - longer forks. Can anyone tell me the stock length of the uppers? I couldn't find it on google and I don't want to pull them off and measure yet. I also found a set of 34 inch 33mm fork tubes from a...

Well, does anyone around SE MN have a welding jig?

Do you sell them prewelded? I don't have a jig or anything I can use like one and can't justify the expense for a one time use.

Thanks, JPanagel, that's exactly what I was looking for. Would you come down here for a case of beer and help me rewire? :)

Any reason for switching the green and yellow? I think the extra wire might be for the blue light on top. What part of MN?

Just got a new bates headlight for my 81 Special II. New headlight has white, blue, green and yellow wire, stock has black, yellow and green. Any idea what goes where? Wiring is really not my thing.

Fantastic answer, now I understand how everything works a little better. Only the starter was affected so I can understand how it is a bad ground. I haven't tried the horn and it's going to be gone from the bike in a week or so anyway.

No problem, enjoy

Those are vacuum ports, used when syncing the carbs. One is typically plugged, the other (with the hose) connects to the stock petcock which is vacuum operated. I'm guessing you must have an other than stock petcock?

Interesting. Head lights and turn signals still work. Haven't tried the horn. Kill switch turns the bike off, but I've noticed a couple of times it takes a couple kicks. I wonder if that's why. I'll give it a shot, I just don't want to mar the new bars too much.

arfstrom, you know Marines just take over anything they want :) Sorry about the hijack, Semper Fi from Rochester, MN.

So the starter button is grounded by being in contact with the handlebar? Since I don't plan to fix this and the bike will be kick only when it's finished, this won't cause any other issues, will it? I'm thinking about the kill switch on that side, mainly.

The new handlebars are painted, could this be doing it? Its not something I'm worried about since I don't use the electric start, but I like the info.

Corpsman? Outstanding. You guys always took care of us. Motor pool 29 Palms-hey corporal, whatcha need? Me - Sgt says we need 4 humvees to train off road and test the four wheel drive. Motorpool - ok, bring 'em back in one piece. My favorite thing - Hey PFC, go over to the motor pool and get the...

Switched handlebars a couple weeks ago. I always kickstart but thought since I had a fully charged new battery I would try the electric start. Hit the button, nothing. No click, no anything. Still kicks just fine. Any ideas?

Hey Rockslyde, semper fi, brother. Wish I still had motor t to bail me out sometimes.

That makes sense. Am I right in thinking that's why the signals will turn on but not flash if the battery is low? Not enough resistance to heat the strip enough to move. So just replace the stock flasher with a no load and we're good to go.

If I understand, I can remove the fronts and replace the flasher with a no load flasher and that should be it, right? For my knowledge, what is the difference between a no load flasher and the stock flasher?