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No. Fork oil weight and engine oil weight are different things entirely. They're also designed for very different tasks.

What's the paint condition now? any dents that need to be filled? How nice of finish are you looking for? =)

Man someone really like to go in straight lines on that bike. Time for new tires I think =)

heh, I've had that only happen on heavily worn pads, glad you got it fixed!

Hi guys, Thanks for all your suggestions, I'll have to try this, this weekend. xschris - yeah TCI sorry I was using CDI as in generic, either way the ignitech boxes will work on our bikes (btw, they do rock big time if you've not used one yet). The throttle shaft seal is an...

Hi, the carb boots are brand new and seem to be sealed correctly, leak testing didn't yield anything interesting. A new CDI box is ~180+ on ebay, or I can spend about that on an Ignitech one which, if this is the problem will solve it. I'm just not sure I'm going to do that yet. I did end...

No they shouldn't have thread locker on them, but you may have/want to replace the crush washer. Make sure it's torqued down correctly.

I just went through this, remove it all, clean it well, replace the springs if they're too worn out. When you pull the brake apart make sure to clean everything with brake cleaner really well, the shoes should be able to collapse the camshaft without issue. In my case they were sticky and oily...

Apparently less white with one patch at a time (or burn) :)

Thanks for the suggestion, I actually already tried this, the slides fall correctly and concurrently. Interesting if the bike is running away on throttle I can temporarily kill it (quick off on on the switch) and it drops down to a nice idle. This is what tells me it's electrical more than...

oh, xschris, the throttle cable isn't sticking, the whole movement is nice and fluid, it's a new cable on a completely rebuild throttle.

Yeah going to check the timing tomorrow, the carbs have been gone through over and over, they've been sonic cleaned, the diaphragms passed leak down test which should rule out crack / puncture. Vacuum hose is good to rebuilt petcock, and the other side is sealed. the carbs are balanced. xschris...

Hey guys, So I'm very frustrated with this bike. I cannot seem to solve this run away / slow to return to idle issue. I've changed out jetting, restricted airflow, gone through the carbs, verified no leaks, etc, etc. The only thing I can think of is that the TCI/CDI unit is faulty, have any of...

I've gone all the way through the carbs, no air leaks detected either. Other thoughts?

Hey guys, I've been having an issue with slow to return to idle (documented in other posts here) and after changing out just about everything I'm suspecting that the ignition control box might be bad. On other bikes I know this can some what be tested by verifying coil properties...

Well a bit more work on the bike recently after a long time away from it (it's been a busy summer). Anyways, I pulled the filters and replaced them with pods, after that rejetted to 130 on both sides. the bike seems to run very well, less the idle down issue. After that I tried to tape up...

If it's consistently on deceleration you should also look for exhaust leaks.

They seem solid, no leaks indicated with backfire / popping. Plugs look good and don't indicate lean condition

If I can't find anything else wrong I'm going to pull the carbs and rebuild with new parts (brass). When I do I'll document it on my fmbikes site.

Yeah I'm running 2 1/4 now. Interestingly my buddy with a 77 bonnie has the exact same problem. I saw some suggestion that there could be a problem with the jetting, and the fix might be to replace the jets (pilot and main) completely.