Search results

Alright, So I tested the following main jets: 115, 120, 124 (dyno jet brand I believe), 130 , 135 (stock), 140, 150, 155, 160. At first I thought is was lean, so I kept adding jet, until I thought maybe it's rich??? I then kept leaning it out and seamed to run best with 124/120. The problem...

Everything looks good. Flow is good and also tested in prime position.

Diaphragms are new. Are we in agreement that it sounds lean? I added a ton more fuel with 155 mains and it started sputtering at 3-4k, so the needle is allowing the mains to flow.

I forgot to mention that I changed the main from 135 to 140 with no major difference. I then tried 155 which was too rich. It started to sputter at 3-4k under load. The needle is already in the 4th notch. Another notch would make it at the richest setting. How would the needle position help...

76' xs360 bone stock except 1 size richer main (140) & richer needle clip position - 1p carbs are CLEAN! New diaphragms. Timing & point gap good Valve adj good 140 psi comp new air filters/stock air box When I goose the throttle in 1st, the engine will not rev past 7k RPM. It will just...

No o ring. It's a fuel screw. Pointy screws meter fuel while the blunt tip ones meter air.

Thx. I'll post some pics of mine soon. I have something screwy going on with my idle circuit. It's pig rich and will run with fuel screws all the way in.

Thanks. Looks like plugs were added in 80'.

I'll have to take a closer look at the pilot tube tonight. Tips are not broken, in fact, when fully in, it completely closes the port. When open it flows. I verified this by blowing air & spraying carb clean. It's pulling fuel elsewhere.

Thanks. My bowls look like that and I believe the plugs were added in 80'.

76' xs360 with bs34's Should there be a rubber plug anywhere in the float bowl, covering the pilot?? Anyone have a pic or link to part?

I advanced it 9°, and the problem still exists. My idle is pig rich, and I can completely close the fuel screws and it will still run. I have a rich stumble from 1-2k rpm, and plugs come out black. It runs great above 2k and plugs clear up. It has stock pilots, 17.5. (76' xs360) Are there any...

OK. I'll give it a shot. Did you notice any improvements in fuel screw adjustment? Mine are not that responsive.

How much would you say you advanced it? Mine is experiencing the same problem. I have 140psi compression, though.

I'll have to give Purple Power a try one day.

I thought I would share a couple of methods on how to remove rust from your gas tank. I have a write up & some videos on my blog located here: Restoring a Rusty Motorcycle Tank The post covers: Agitating rust with nuts/bolts Rust removal with vinegar Sealing tank with Caswell Epoxy...

I recently started a blog on MC repair. I've added all this information on the following post: How-To: Choke Plunger Pad Replacement I'm hoping it helps people beyond this forum:thumbsup:

By all means I don't ever let solvents stay wet on rubber or paint, so maybe that is why I don't see it happen. With the engine running, the seal will dry up quickly after a shot of carb clean.

Butane, propane, water, carb clean, my finger....end result is the same...it leaks. I've heard that carb clean can melt rubber, although in the 15 years or so I have been playing with MC's & cars, I have never personally seen it. :umm:

The original seals were brittle and I had to dip the carbs. I bought mine from MikesXS. Bike has about 5k miles, and the shafts felt pretty tight in the bore. No evidence of wear on these parts. I can kill the engine by spraying carb clean on throttle shafts.