1978 XS400 Problems

Sick of Problems

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Hello all, and may I thank you for supporting such a wonderful and helpful site.

Two weeks ago I bought a 1978 XS400 (2LO VIN) for $50. It had been sitting for 3 years, but had run when it was parked in a shed, or so the PO said.

I brought it home and me and a friend sprayed some starting fluid (actually carb cleaner) into it and got it sort of working on one cylinder with the right sometimes firing, but bogging down and stalling if you throttled it over 2000 rpm. I bought new plugs. My stepfather, a mechanic, helped me check the coils on that side ( the swap test), which were fine. It started and idled great, on the left cylinder. I cleaned the carbs via Green Clean soak and tooth brush; they are spotless.

I put the carbs back on and they just poured gas out the back. Cleaned them again ( the float chamber) and bent the tangs down; wouldn't start. Pulled it again and bent the tabs even with the (brass) float plate (the little metal piece that hangs the floats). It flooded. Took it apart and readjusted till it didn't flood, and it just popped a little when the starter turned it. I took it apart and adjusted the float height to 32mm factory specs in the manual I found.

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Someone told me recently that 25.7mm would be an ideal height for the floats. Dunno. I just want to know if it would be the carb floats that are the problem, or something else. Also, if I should adjust the floats to the XS360 level of 26mm? As of now, the needle (that is not clipped onto the tang
carb side.png
carb top.png
, it relies on gravity to drop) barely moves down at all, maybe 2mm. I wonder if that's enough to let fuel in or if it is starving, which is what I think. Any thoughts would be helpful.
D.
 
26mm for brass floats. Make sure the floats don't have holes in them. Replace float valves with new ones if they are old. On this year carb the idle mix screws tips tend to get broken off in the carb bodies from over tightening. Check diaphragms for cracks and holes. Did you FULLY disassemble the carbs before cleaning them and are all the passages clear. The coils are wired specific to each side so make sure they go back. Have you adjusted the valves, timing, gaped points and checked compression on the motor. Lots of things to do on an old bike. Post some pics of the bike so we can see what you are working with.
 
So I readjusted the carbs, threw them back on and it does this;
As far as the timing and stuff, no, I need to go over it further. I am just surprised that it ran and after the adjustments it wont start up, even on one cylinder...
 
I bet the needles arent working properly. Even if they have a slight ring on them, they are no good. Mine looked OK but they still stuck and leaked. I ended up buying 2 rebuild kits for the carbs and it work flawlessly after that. Kinda sounds like the diaphragms in the carbs arent working properly and the engine is sucking air through..

I wouldnt call it a mistake, but I did the same thing as a lot of us do.... Buy an old bike for cheap, and end up dumping hundreds into it. It truly is a labor of love and you really need to read up on these machines and figure out everything you can about them.. Some parts are very expensive or impossible to find new, which is what drives people away from these machines..

Another thing you could do is to take the plug wires off of the boots and cut about a half inch off the plug wires. Sometimes that part of the wire gets loose and has a bad contact with the plug boot. This is just so you can start eliminating any other possibilities and narrow it down to the carbs. The plug boots have a screw tap that will screw into the plug wire by hand..

Make sure you are getting clean fuel out of the fuel line too. This very possibility will have you going in circles if you dont make sure its good.

Just be careful with flooding carbs, when I first got my bike going I had the same problem. I had gas pouring out of the headers...
 
Are you running stock air filters on the bike? What numbers did you get for compression? How did the idle mix screws look and how many turns out do you have them? They should be at least 3 turns.
 
Yah, i have got some work to do before I bother you guys any more! Thanks for your time though :)
I'm gonna go with rebuilding the carbs. The diaphragm on the side that wasn't firing before was sticking, and now it moves a bit, but like I said it dose not start now. It really is a nightmare though, as well as a blessing. I'm just thinking of all these cool things I'm gonna do once it's running and together, but I just need to focus on getting it there. I got new air filters to answer your question xschris, but they haven't been on as I've removed the carb at least 20 times in the past week...
should the carb rebuild kit I get have the float that is attached to the tang or works via gravity, like the current one? i'll also try the wire test, just to be sure. I went from a 150cc scooter (45-50mph) that has carb problems and isn't running to this, which I think will be a nice change, to go up hills without losing speed :) I'll get my hands gassy again tomorrow!
Thanks again,
Dante
 

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The diaphragms need to move up and down freely. You really should have a complete stock intake tract to get the bike running. I see from the pictures, you are missing the intake boot and filter boxes. It will never run right if you dont get those items.

This should be the rebuild kit you need:https://www.siriusconinc.com/pro-detail.php?pid=&product_id=712

Get two of them in order to keep the carbs as similar as possible. The rest of the parts can be found on here or Ebay.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1978-Yamaha...ash=item2a7c04ba8a:g:aF0AAOSw4CFYs3Iw&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1978-Yamaha...ash=item2a7c049ce3:g:qogAAOSwTM5Ys3El&vxp=mtr
 
Thanks for the kit info! I have all the tract items though, just not on since the carb has been taken off so many times. I guess I'll shoot for the kits.
Just out of curiosity, which part of the carb actually controls the diaphragm? What would be making it stick? Is it this little screw?
Thanks
 

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That's the pilot jet. The slides operate on a vacuum from the motor. Download the manual from the site and read/look at how the carbs are put together. There are threads in the forum on carb rebuilding and cleaning. I think there is also a video on youtube from a member on here about this.
link to part one
 
I just got the one side working, but it's shooting out a lot of white cloudy exhaust. I am thinking I just need to tune the carbs. I'll get back to the site if I finish.
 
The Keyster rebuild kit comes with everything you need except floats. When I had one cylinder firing, it was because the passage between carbs was jammed. Every time I took the carbs off, id find some more gunk somewhere else.

When you rebuild the carbs, and you will be doing this if you want the bike to run, remove the carb bowl on the second carb. this way you can be sure that gas is flowing through the first one and flowing to the second one.
 
I got a compression tester today and found that the right side (not working) has 155 psi dry. I am assuming the other side is good but will check later. I am going to shoot for cleaning the carbs and buying new floats and rebuild kits. Hoping that will solve the problem. Get back to you in a few days.
 
Tested compression on the side not working and its getting 155. I am just gonna buy new floats and carb rebuild kits and get back to you once those are on.....
 
Tearing them apart again. The idle screw on the right side was all bent. Still gotta order the kits. Hoping just carb cleaner will do the trick
 

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Make sure the tips on those screws are not broken off in the carbs. Also replace those screws if they are worn.
 
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