1980 XS400

Atomic Wedgie

XS400 Enthusiast
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I picked up this pretty sweet 1980 XS400 a few days ago, took a few pics before I started to tear it down. I'm gonna clean it up, fix some of the welds, replace the pipes, and paint the tank. She's a runner but the carbs need some work, the bike just doesn't want to idle.
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I'd been looking for a café/brat style bike for a little while, and I was surprised how cheap I picked this up for. I built some Triumph/ Norton/ Velocette bikes a couple decades ago and sold them all to buy a house, raise a family etc. Been racing/ riding in the dirt for awhile and the itch to build a bitchen little street bike has been getting stronger and stronger.

I'm really looking forward to building a cool little canyon/ backwoods racer and I think I've got a great starting point with this bike.

And feel free to add any comments suggestions, I'm open to anything or anyone that wants to help.
 
man, that is a sweet ride.
hand painted decals on the tank would set it off rather than a full paint job
 
Good score:thumbsup: My guess is the home made exhaust and dirty/poor setup carbs are to blame for the bad idle. Also those air filters are about the poorest working ones they make:( I would get a set of uni's they filter and perform better than any other pod type filter. Welcome to the forum:)
 
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Some people get those emgo pods to work directly on the carbs as you have there, but I was never able to on my '78. I switched to MikesXS K&N knock-off air filters and all of my idle problems went away. Of course I'd recommend cleaning and inspecting the carbs anyway. Also, post up your jet sizes if you dig in there.

There are definitely a few different options available for air filters including the large single K&N brand name filter that connects to both carbs, or two single K&N pods, or UNI's, or the MikesXS K&N knock-offs.
 
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Spent the morning just cleaning stuff up, got rid of all the surface rust and Scotch Brighted everything I could reach. Painted the crank case breather cover and electric starter cover and started on a new battery box.

I'll definitely order some new filters and tear into the carbs next week. I did get the throttle cable to stop sticking and got the rear back pedal to stop rubbing against the cover.

Is the starter needed to be left? This bike is a kick start only so I'm thinking I can just remove the starter unless that's a no go.

And is there an aftermarket front brake hose that is shorter? The stocker is waaaay too long. I'm betting I'll have to make a custom one.

And that rear hoop is getting re-done, it's an abomination right now! Drives me nuts looking at it.

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Consider some fork boots. I really liked these.

Did you pull the top motor mount (head steady) off? It's not missing, right?

You'll have to buy a shorter brake line; I think most tend to be the same size and would utilize the stock banjo bolt.

I am pretty sure the starter can't be taken out without removing the entire stator cover on the left side of the engine. If you do remove it you'll need some sort of plug to cover the hole it will leave.

I have my clutch cable routed a bit different to clean up the slack; run it under the gas tank "catch" (that bowl-shaped thing that catches the rubber on the underside of the gas tank) through the triple tube area under the right hand coil and then between the two air filters.

Is there any way you can take a picture of the harness of the left side of the bike right near the coil? I am just curious how the harness was modified to accept the smaller headlight. It's a mod I've been interested in for a while now!
 
yep, that front hose is way too long, just get and aftermarket goodridge or something.

I noticed the clutch cable into the case has a redneck fixture, they are easy to lose and it would be best to get the right one. it positions the cable correctly for the worm drive in the clutch
 
Good eye Drewpy! I had an issue replacing my cable with an aftermarket one, but instead of rigging it up like that photo I simply cut a slice in the side of mine to accept the aftermarket cable. I couldn't think of any other way to do it!
 

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You can remove the stater and all the bits that goes with it (chain and starter clutch) easy. You do need to take off the charging system cover to get to it all but thats no big deal. A rubber freeze plug will seal the hole. There are a few good threads on here on how to do it:)
 
XSchris you got a good eye to notice the cheap emgo filters on that bike lol.

Welcome atomic to the forum nice bike there.
Also like BC said getting those emgo`s to stay on the carbs I went through a hard time trying to get mine to stay on.It was only after I cut the first half of my rubber hpipe was I able to get them to stay on.Its on my todo list this spring to replace them with something better.
 
I picked up a NOS clutch cable holder on Ebay, one of the first things I did after I got it home. I take it I have to take the entire cover off to get to the clutch cable?
 
Yea you have to remove that cover and remove the shifter in order to disconnect the old and install the new clutch cable
 
You've got to replace those crimp connectors. I've had them come off due to vibrations more than once.

How many wires are coming out of your headlight? I'm just wondering where the giant rat's nest is that comes stuffed in the oem headlight.
 
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