1982 seca xs400 build (New thread)

I think it is called a stressed member frame or something; the engine acts as part of the frame. Yes, removal is very easy; you can stick a jack under it and it drops out.
 
So now that the chassis is done I am working on the wheels and brakes. The piston on the brake caliper has no movement. Is this normal? If it is anything like a bike hydraulic brake the piston should have some movement, but in this case Im not sure. :wtf:

Brake calliper.jpg
 
I got all of my controls and switches on the handlebars. Next step is to hook up both brakes.

I need help!!! Should my piston in my caliper have play? It is stuck in place right now. If I need to clean it, can I put it in a bucket of chemdip? Is there rubber in the caliper that I need to worry about? Also I dont have the piston seal or dust seal, and I know for sure it wasnt on the caliper when I pulled it apart. How important are they?

PLEASE HELP!!! I want to get this bike rolling with brakes tonight, so I can put the engine in over my spring break. Thanks guys
 
ksqrly - wish I had an answer to your break question, but I don't.

Instead, I was going to ask where you intend to put the battery? I have an 82 maxim with the same frame/monoshock design. I welded tabs onto the small bar that goes just behind the starter motor to mount a battery box, but i'm still struggling with a location for the rectififer and other electronics.
Curious to see where you go with this.
 
Im going to put the box on the swing arm. The oval hole at the bottom is perfect because there is no welding involved. Just drill holes in the bottom of the box and screw it down.

I was initially worried about the wires wiggling, but if you run them to the pivot of the swing arm before running up to the wire harness there will be minimal wire movement.
 
I got the handlebar controls and switches mounted. The only thing left before the motor goes in are the brakes.

Handlebar controls.jpg
 
Looking good. I myself have a 82 seca I'm tryign to build back up. It was sitting in an impound lot for 6 years. I have a question though... How did you get the damn airfilter box out without taking the whole rear end off? I have my carbs off and everything else but I can't get the damn airfilter box out.
 
I got the motor down to my place today. Time to clean it up and put it in the frame. Still not sure what to do with the front brake caliper. Any ideas on how to clean the caliper up?


Motor.jpg
 
Okay, front caliper.

You'll need a rebuild kit with new seals. There is one rubber seal inside of that caliper.

There should be no sideways play in the piston (otherwise the fluid would come out when you squeeze the brake handle.)

To get the piston out, you can use compressed air. If that doesn't work, you can absolutely dip it. If you end up using tools to pull on the piston, do NOT scratch the piston. Brake fluid is slippery, and if any can get past the piston, it will certainly keep your brakes from actually stopping you.

So, if you have to use tools, wrap them in a shop rag first.

If you use a chemical dip, make absolutely sure you get it all out of the caliper before hooking everything back up. Hydraulic fluid is reactive to lots of stuff, and you don't want a chemistry experiment happening in your lines!

Good luck!
 
My piston was stuck too. I went ahead and hooked it up, poured some fluid in there, bled it, then pumped the piston out. Didn't have access to compressed air.
Also, if the piston is pitted with rust, it's best to get a new one. I got a stainless steel piston for $40. It cost more than the whole caliper, but hey, that's what happens when you buy used stuff. ;)
 
Okay, front caliper.

You'll need a rebuild kit with new seals. There is one rubber seal inside of that caliper.

There should be no sideways play in the piston (otherwise the fluid would come out when you squeeze the brake handle.)

To get the piston out, you can use compressed air. If that doesn't work, you can absolutely dip it. If you end up using tools to pull on the piston, do NOT scratch the piston. Brake fluid is slippery, and if any can get past the piston, it will certainly keep your brakes from actually stopping you.

So, if you have to use tools, wrap them in a shop rag first.

If you use a chemical dip, make absolutely sure you get it all out of the caliper before hooking everything back up. Hydraulic fluid is reactive to lots of stuff, and you don't want a chemistry experiment happening in your lines!

Good luck!

My piston was stuck too. I went ahead and hooked it up, poured some fluid in there, bled it, then pumped the piston out. Didn't have access to compressed air.
Also, if the piston is pitted with rust, it's best to get a new one. I got a stainless steel piston for $40. It cost more than the whole caliper, but hey, that's what happens when you buy used stuff. ;)

Thanks for the input guys. This is exactly what I wanted to hear.
 
My piston was stuck too. I went ahead and hooked it up, poured some fluid in there, bled it, then pumped the piston out. Didn't have access to compressed air.
Also, if the piston is pitted with rust, it's best to get a new one. I got a stainless steel piston for $40. It cost more than the whole caliper, but hey, that's what happens when you buy used stuff. ;)

I just checked the Yamaha part numbers, and our bike shares a front caliper with the same years XS650. Mike's XS has brand new pistons for less than $40, for next time...
 
Shiny stuff is cool, but its taking me forever to polish this little dohc.

polished engine1.jpg
 
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