1982 seca xs400 build (New thread)

HELP Guys!!! I am stuck. So there is one really shitty thing about the design of this bike. I cant fit my hand in the little space to hook the ignition coils with the motor in, so I have come to the conclusion that I will have to run wires out for the coils before I mount the motor. I have one main question.

1) In this diagram which coil is which. 1 is left and 2 is right?

Wire diagram.jpg
 
You need smaller hands, or daughters. Either can reach and connect fiddly wires like that.

Of course they also reduce the time you have to work on the bike. So yes, more efficient with the time you have, but less time total.
 
Ok guys today I am going to do electrical. I originally wanted to get the motor in first, but I dont think I will. Im no to worried about wire lengths as I am going to use most of the original wiring harness. I was going to build one from scratch, but I unwound the old one to see how the wires were jointed, and I came to the conclusion that it would be much easier to use the original wires and just add new connectors, and reconfigure.
 
Ok guys you are going to be bombarded with questions get ready.

1) Is the light switch the same switch as the starter switch? It has to be right? I have six wires coming from my right side control and as far as I can tell there is only the the small push button starter switch and the one bigger square switch. (pic included) Also on my bike there is no blue wire going to the the switch I am talking about.

right side switch.jpg

So how do I power the headlight? with a blue wire from the main or red/yellow wire from the fuse box? Or high beam blue and low beam red/yellow or the other way around?:wtf:

Ignition:Reg.jpg

sylenoid.jpg
 
1) See your earlier post, #61. That "bigger square switch" is your kill switch...

Regarding your 2nd pic - the rectifier/regulator should have the cooling fins vertical if you intend to mount it there. It can generate a fair bit of heat. Enough that the factory spent the $ to use an aluminium case with cooling fins. Don't try to defeat their efforts by mounting it in a fashion that doesn't allow it to radiate heat.

And your 3rd pic - the solenoid should be beside the battery or very close to it unless you intend to use heavier gauge wiring to connect it to the battery and starter.

I'd suggest taking a step back and planning your wiring harness before you start cutting wires. It is easier to erase a line on a drawing than it is to fix a silly mistake with wire cutters...
 
1) See your earlier post, #61. That "bigger square switch" is your kill switch...

Regarding your 2nd pic - the rectifier/regulator should have the cooling fins vertical if you intend to mount it there. It can generate a fair bit of heat. Enough that the factory spent the $ to use an aluminium case with cooling fins. Don't try to defeat their efforts by mounting it in a fashion that doesn't allow it to radiate heat.

And your 3rd pic - the solenoid should be beside the battery or very close to it unless you intend to use heavier gauge wiring to connect it to the battery and starter.

I'd suggest taking a step back and planning your wiring harness before you start cutting wires. It is easier to erase a line on a drawing than it is to fix a silly mistake with wire cutters...

UUgh I must no be good at explaining myself. I know that that is the kill switch but if you look at the diagram there is 7 wires going to the right control. two are for the kill switch two are for the starter button, and then there are for the power to the headlight, and one other wire that my bike doesnt have. My question is does the kill switch act as the light switch as well because as far as I can tell I dont have a "light switch" that is shown in the diagram.

As far as the solenoid goes you might want to take another look its close to wear my battery will be. My battery just isnt in because I am waiting for my buddy to weld a stainless steel box.

As far as the fins go, I thought about that, and you are right I just was snapping a pick of where they would be. Thanks for bringing that to my head.

And I have made plenty of diagrams, and have taken plenty of steps back, so you dont need to worry about that. All the cuts I am making to the original harness are only to remove relays and change connectors.
 
hahaha wow I typed that way to fast, and skipped and misspelled some words, but im guessing you can decifer.

Oh and I will explain why there is only six wires on my bike on the right side control and not seven. The seventh wire is the blue wire from the main, and it powers either the high or low beam. Im guessing the low beam since the blue wire acts as a running light. On my bike the only thing the blue wire connects to is the rear running light, and I know this from following the connection. So where does my bike get power for the head light? It comes when you flip the kill switch or "light switch". Im pretty sure they are the same thing. In conclusion in the diagram the shows the high beam or low beam being supplied with the blue on mine both the high and low beam are supplied by the same wire. Get it? bahahahaha I do anyways so ya
 
This picture should help. This is the stock connection. Notice that there are six wires. The physical "kill switch" has to control the "light switch" and "kill switch" that are shown in the diagram, but I wasn't sure thats why I asked. You can also see that there is no seventh blue wire in this connection like shown in the diagram. This blue wire is a running wire from the main, and stock on my bike it only runs to the rear light.

Right side c wires.jpg
 
Im guessing the difference come from the years. My is an 82 this diagram is for an 83.
 
Keep in mind that the manual and it's wiring diagrams are generic. They include information for other markets, not just Canada and USA. The "Light switch" and "Passing switch" don't exist on my bike as they were not required in North America. The lights on our bikes come on with the ignition switch. The headlight is either on low-beam or high-beam based on the position of the switch on the left bar, the "Dimmer switch". The kill switch does not affect the lights.

Hope this helps.
 
UUUUghhh Dave you are quite frustrating. Maybe I am not explaining myself very well. Maybe your bike is different but on my bike the dimmer switch is supplied with power by the "light switch" which is also the "kill switch". Notice on my stock connection there are 6 wires coming from the right side control. If there were no light switch there wouldn't be six wires there would be four, and also notice that the two additional wires are the same color as the wires that go to a "light switch". Your bike may be different, but I can tell you now for certain my headlight didnt come on until the "kill switch" was turned on. The only light that came on was the rear light, and I know this because on my stock harness the only thing the blue running wire is connected to is the tail light. Just look at the diagram. It all makes sense what I am saying, and you are right our bikes defiantly dont have a passing switch.
 
Maybe you could check if you bike is the same. Turn on the ignition and see if the kill switch turns the light on and off when the main switch is in the on position
 
Ok so the electrical is actually coming along much better than I thought. So far I have figured out my wires coming from my main switch and the reg/rec loop, also pretty close on the ignition just have to figure out some relay stuff. Ill work at it more tomorrow with a fresh start.

Also got my tail/blinker light mounted an in place

Wiring harness one.jpg

Tail light.jpg
 
Bentwrench what did you find? Im pretty sure that is the only possibility on my bike. I dont see any other solution. Let me know what you find.

I also have another question. On my harness there is a black/white wire going from the ignition to the sidestand relay. I cut out the side stand relay from the ignition loop, so do I just need to connect the black/wire coming from the ignition to the red/white ignition loop?
 
Truthfully, my front wiring is all done and in the headlight, and selfishly, I don't want to open the rats nest... I know that's not like me, but I am totally focused on getting the bike running by the end of may. If I open it up before then, I promise to check.

Of course, the easy way for you to check is to turn on the bike, and see if your headlight turns off when you hit the kill switch. I realize this may be bad advice given that you're taking photos of your wiring harness off the bike...
 
Truthfully, my front wiring is all done and in the headlight, and selfishly, I don't want to open the rats nest... I know that's not like me, but I am totally focused on getting the bike running by the end of may. If I open it up before then, I promise to check.

Of course, the easy way for you to check is to turn on the bike, and see if your headlight turns off when you hit the kill switch. I realize this may be bad advice given that you're taking photos of your wiring harness off the bike...

Maybe you could check that on your bike? CUz you are right I dont have my harness on my bike, so I dont really have a way to check it. Maybe the wires Just run into the right side control and connect to each other but that doesnt make sense that they would run the wires. Did you see the pic of the six wires that run up to the right side control? Two of them correspond to the wires that go to the "light switch"
 
Also what do you think about the relay? there is no side stand relay on the diagram and the black/white wire just goes to a tiny square of nothing on the diagram. Not sure what to do. In my head it make sense to connect them but maybe when the relay is engaged it disconnects them instead of connecting them. Any help?
 
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