bcware- The old rubber on the pegs was all cracked up and old, so I took it off. I haven't decided if ill get new rubbers or new pegs all together. I think some motocross pegs would be sweet, but you are right Im going to need something.
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1982 seca xs400 build (New thread)
- Thread starter ksqrly
- Start date
Well its been almost 4 months since I bought the bike, and its finally rideable. I got everything hooked up today, and it fired right up. I mean right up the first two seconds of holding on the starter button. It runs really good, it is definitely lean, but I am surprised at how much power these little motors will produce!!! I didnt get out of 3rd but damn!!!! This thing is going to be way to much fun
Yep - they're perfect for a run to the coffee shop with your mates. A little small for a run to the rockies.
Yep thats why I built it. Not going to be a touring bike but just for quick canyon cruises and scootin around town.
SO I went to start it up today, and there was gas leaking from one of the air filters. I read up on it and I know the problem is one of three things
1)My float level is to high (dont think that is it because I checked it before I put the carbs on).
2)My float needle is sticking
3)Not sure on this one but I read that the petcock vacuum may not be working properly. Is the pet cock even vacuum operated on this bike how can I tell?
1)My float level is to high (dont think that is it because I checked it before I put the carbs on).
2)My float needle is sticking
3)Not sure on this one but I read that the petcock vacuum may not be working properly. Is the pet cock even vacuum operated on this bike how can I tell?
Always turn the petcock to off if you have a manual one. Vacuum operated petcocks can be left on. If the petcock is vacuum operated it will have a small tube connecting it to the carbs or carb boots.
The float needles should stop the carbs from flooding if they are working properly, but it is not wise to rely on them.
Check your oil; smell it.
Gas coming out of your air filters usually also means gas leaking into the cylinders; the gas sneaks past the piston rings and finds its way into the case. The gas/oil mix that results is bad! If your oil smells like gas (or the oil level is suddenly higher than normal) drain it thoroughly before running the bike again. If it were me I would probably just change the oil to be safe if you don't know how long the flooding was going on.
All this being said, your floats or float needles probably aren't working correctly.
You could double-check the float height (both floats on each carb, not just one on each side). Make sure the needles aren't opening too much (there is a tang on the floats to adjust this). Make sure the needle tips aren't worn (this will affect the seal). Make sure the spring-loaded plunger on the back of the needle is working (I've had some stick or otherwise not move smoothly). It is also possible some debris has found its way into the float/float seat area jamming it open. I'd also check the float height externally using a clear tube. Finally, it could have been a fluke; sometimes floats get stuck for no good reason.
The float needles should stop the carbs from flooding if they are working properly, but it is not wise to rely on them.
Check your oil; smell it.
Gas coming out of your air filters usually also means gas leaking into the cylinders; the gas sneaks past the piston rings and finds its way into the case. The gas/oil mix that results is bad! If your oil smells like gas (or the oil level is suddenly higher than normal) drain it thoroughly before running the bike again. If it were me I would probably just change the oil to be safe if you don't know how long the flooding was going on.
All this being said, your floats or float needles probably aren't working correctly.
You could double-check the float height (both floats on each carb, not just one on each side). Make sure the needles aren't opening too much (there is a tang on the floats to adjust this). Make sure the needle tips aren't worn (this will affect the seal). Make sure the spring-loaded plunger on the back of the needle is working (I've had some stick or otherwise not move smoothly). It is also possible some debris has found its way into the float/float seat area jamming it open. I'd also check the float height externally using a clear tube. Finally, it could have been a fluke; sometimes floats get stuck for no good reason.
I re-installed my float needles upside down once, that also causes them to malfunction
obviously.
just open your carbs and have a look
obviously.
just open your carbs and have a lookSO I noticed that one of my floats was "springy" when I pushed on it. The other one wasn't. I swapped the needles and the other one was now "springy". Are they supposed to have a little bit of springyness. Im guessing that is a worn needle if thats the case.
Nick1236
XS400 Member
KSQRLY,
Project is looking awesome. If you have the time, do you think you could make a list of the items you used in your wiring harness (fuses, relays, etc)?? I need to do the same thing to mine.
Project is looking awesome. If you have the time, do you think you could make a list of the items you used in your wiring harness (fuses, relays, etc)?? I need to do the same thing to mine.
Correct, there is some kind of spring inside the float needle. If the spring isn't working you're going to have problems.
For my wiring I got rid off most of the relays. The kickstand relay can be bypassed by unhooking the black/white wire from your ignition. The clutch/neutral safety loop can be bypassed by running the red/white power wire directly to the starter solenoid. I bought a cheap LED blinker relay at auto zone. I should have used a fuse block but instead I just used in line fuse holders. 20a main 10a on the rest of the fuses. All the connections are uninsulated bullet connectors that were shrink wrapped. I used more shrink wrap than I thought it would take.
What else do you want to know?
What else do you want to know?
SO I am about to order jets for the carbs. Any recommendations on size? the stock set up is a 127.5 and 117.5. I have straight pipes and cone filters. I have already asked on this forum but just to be sure, now that my air flow is the same on both sides I should be using the same size jet on both carbs? Im thinking a 130 should do the trick. What about my pilot needle should I bump that up too?
I'm not sure if you should keep the different jet sizes, but I would go up a good 2 sizes on the mains and at least 1 on the pilot. Nobody can say for certain; if it were me I'd buy 2 and 3 sizes up on the mains and 1 and 2 sizes up on the pilots. Just remember that it's usually cheaper to buy extra jets than to have another set shipped if you don't get the right ones the first try. I will say that it is unlikely you'll get it right the first try too.
I said screw it and I bought them all when I did mine I hate waiting!
I said screw it and I bought them all when I did mine
I hate waiting!
