'77 XS360 Barn find

Elsayal

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Hi, I'm Raoul, a new member from the netherlands!

I've been reading only, hanging around on the xs400 forum for a while behind the screens. Always wanted to build a caferacer, but didn't have the budget or the time for it. I drove a 2005 Z1000, until it was "apprehended" by the thieves guild, solving my problem, although not as I expected it would be solved.

So with insurance refund, I searched for an XS or SR suitable for a rebuild. SR's in general and XS's 650 are overpriced here, so eventually I bought a XS360 in very rough shape; It had been standing indoors for more than 10 years, and wouldnt fire up.

Currently the bike is stripped, every bolt is removed. Im in the refurbishing painting process at the moment, planning to do everything I can one small step at a time. I'm a refrigeration engineer, so technical skills and tools are not a problem, its just that this is my first rebuild, and now and then im looking for some pointers.

So first question:
I pressed the swingarm pivot shaft out, took over 150 tons in a industrial press! Bushings are completely shot, and the inner shaft is rotten solid to the outer shaft. I picked up a 2nd hand shaft which is the right thickness and too long, will need new threading, and had a rummage in the bins there for the outer shaft. Couldnt find the outer shaft, however could find two shorter ones of the right thickness.

Would it be a problem to grind the 2 outer shafts to required length and use that?

If I dont make sense, ill post more pics.
What I started with:

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Engine cleaned and 2 layers of VHT engine enamel
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strange, original bushes are only nylon and you can melt them out if needs be. I just got a hacksaw and cut then 1/2 way then got a chisel to do the rest.

that needle kits would be your best bet or ebay has oilite bushes which I think are better.
 
Good to know the 650 bushings will fit.

I meant the shaft that comes with the needle bearing kit. Currently I have 2 short shafts, but I guess the shaft should be 1 piece. Thought it wouldnt pose a problem if the locking shaft would keep em together.

Still trying to decide needle or brass bushings.

Anyone running kickstart only capacitor? Would it eliminate the condensator?
 
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Left to right ; old inner shaft with the old outer shaft and grinded off bolts. New inner shaft (which need to be threaded) and the only shafts i could find that would fit
 
Just want to clarify what you should have;

the "inner shaft" is a bushing and should be of hard material. those don't look right.

the swingarm bushing fits inside the swingarm and are only about 60mm long in a top hat configuration, they press in either side of the swing arm pivot.

the swingarm shaft goes through frame 1 of 2 seals with shims, through the inner bush (installed in the swingarm), to 2 of 2 shims and seal and out through the frame the other side
 
So I will take your advice, and order a proper needle bearing.

Stripped the tank to bare metal today, and coated the underside with plastidip.
Any tips on getting it smooth? Right now you can see darker spots here n there. Dont want to polish to a shine, going for bare metal :)

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I use a wire brush on a grinder with lots of elbow grease. Leaves a clean but somewhat rough surface which I like. Then I clear-coat. If you want really smooth than I would use sandpaper in progressively finer grades.
 
Havent been online in a while, we sold our house and moved.

Bigger shed, and bike is coming together.

Powdercoated the frame, fitted the seat, sorted out some minor problems and painted the tank. starting on wiring now. (Biggest issue, need some help there)
 
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Need a little help with electrics. ive got 4 white wires coming out of the ac generator.
between all wires ive got 0,6 ohm, except one wire which has 1,2 ohm to the other three wires. im assuming this is ground.
checked continuity to frame, no shorts to ground.
however, I dont have 50/70 volts ac when I kickstart the bike.
hooked up my new regulator/rectifier,no 12 volt.

I can only kickstart the bike, no starter motor. I didnt connect the 1,6ohm wire to the chassis.

The fork gaitors are from http://www.kickstartershop.de/de/Faltenbaelge1
 
How many connections are there on that regulator/rectifier? Doesn't look like a big enough connector for the wires necessary for our bikes.
Have you removed the old regulator?
Is the alternator field coil connected to anything?

Your resistance readings are a bit low. Should be .72 ohms +/- 10% but if the three are all at about the same value you're probably OK.
The fourth wire is not used on your model. Do not connect it to the frame or anywhere else.
 
The reg/rec has 6 connections. 1,2,3 ac ground and 12v. Was planning on soldering this later.

Ive removed the old regulator.

The field (4th wire im assuming) was not connected when testing. Am I correct in guessing this wire with 1,6 ohm is the wire i neednt run?

Ive tested for 50 volts ac with nothing connected, no juice.
 
The fourth wire would be called the neutral point in the three phase wye alternator.
I don't think any of the manuals spec a resistance value for the fourth wire to the rest.
Off the top of my head I would expect it to have a lower reading to any of the other three wires than those wires have to each other.
Neither of my alternators have the fourth wire to test.
It seems odd to me that it'd be higher. Maybe someone else can comment on that.
Either way it's not used.

The field coil is what the old regulator was connected to. Without it connected the alternator will not generate any power.
You only listed 5 of the 6 wires but it appears that your regulator/rectifier is not of a type meant for our bikes.
Do you have a model number for the regulator/rectifier you have?

You can use it but you'll have to reinstall the old regulator or buy an aftermarket field coil regulator.
Or buy a combo regulator/rectifier that includes the field coil wires. They're usually green and brown.
The "RR-38" is one combo unit that other members have used successfully.
 
Ill try the old regulator, thanks for the tips!
Since this bike wouldnt spark I assumed the rectifier was broken and ordered a new one, not knowing much about electrics
 
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