79 new build newby motorcycle mechanic rebuilt a moped. question about stripped case bolt

One Big Wet Sump

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got bike for around half a k in parts cleaned up. i didnt take it apart but someone did n stripprd case bolt in pic. i think 8m. would yall drill it out and retap 8m or try to go bigger? is it even exactly neccisary bolt even although i have bit n tap already. plus i was wondering do yall use tool to hold rings with on ressembly? thanks i wanta do cafe racer or three person seat since i think seats only part i dont have. any pro tools needed except puller? its one big lego puzzle for me this thing. also question about gas tank restore? do people just use epoxy or is there a metal pour solution like lead? or is that crazy thought. last off i read rules n saw yall like tasteful nudy pics so if i get fix i ride around buck naked although yall said tasteful anyhow i heard theres no other feeling like it out
 

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oh also gasket sealer question? should i use it i got all mew gaskets? or if i dont know what im doing best not to use any if got to take back apart or use and just use case on all exvept high temp on head? newby question i guess just know on mopeds some people just seal the case and not heads as if cofident like to seal so no drip...
 
Also pretty new to this stuff but I`ve been working on a 78 for about two months now. Best solution in my not professional opinion would be to try heli-coils since retapped aluminium is pretty weak. I actually just stripped a 6mm on the crankcase and will be trying them out. It`s a pretty necessary bolt since it keeps the oil plane on the journal bearing right beside it and uneven crankcase is a recipe for warped aluminum.

Piston rings im not sure i just compressed them by hand after they were in the correct positions then gently slide them in.

Crank puller isnt super necessary since its just attached to the crank.

Not sure about gas tank haven't gotten to mine yet.

I noticed that to. i assume it was for girls posing on bikes maybe.

Buy a new head gasket and gasket paper.
 
definately hope its for girls haha plus i think he means soft stuff too
thx as i just learn what hel a heli coil is - insert seems a little more solid n more expensive. what i meant by bigger is just go buy a bigger bolt n use reg tap n drill out other side bigger - i gotta look at it more if possible anyhow a new bolt is needed so only buying it be cheapest since have reg tap already. might just try to get it out but dude tryed that n tore it up good. part im worry about is getting correct angel with drill motor as i dont have press n its angeled a little. thx again as i saw some vid of guy adding heli coils for heat reasons with aluminum n bolts i guess so he could unscrew latter it was on big bolts not motorcycle. like almost 3/4 inch so i guess there for new stuff too
 
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Helicoils are for lightly loaded bolts, that is a main and needs a timezert with professional quality install.

OP will likely go 'next bolt up' and a mistake, the threads will tap but pull loose from incomplete thread height almost instantly at torque up. More likely to have to go two sizes up and lose main stability with that much material removed from the hole.

But who am I to say, only done it a hundred times or more.

Necessity is the mother of butchery they say, call the Safeway meat department...........
 
That close to the crank bearing high pressure oil galleries would make me just look for a good set of used cases.
 
And that could easily be a must, can't say with no case in front of me to tell how close they come.

(edit) Looked at the location and assuming the front middle hole, which may not have oil around it at all. Take a piece of wire and stick in the main supply oil hole there and see which way it goes, if to the back then no oil gallery in the front. Typically the main oil gallery is up high and in back but cannot say with no oil pressure circuit diagram.
 
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what is size bigger to you? or 2 bigger? mm or inch? one bigger and it pulls loose? i dont understand exactly about incomplete thread hieght? you mean hole isnt deep? i thought it is mad deep. or is it same as open hole across depth? maybe someone has a case cut in half pic even? i just think its 8m from parts webpage. i read most of manual now so i think i know what needs to be sealed for sure plus it even say helicoil use for plug repair. you say timesert will work here best huh? thx so much for reply
 
i look at it and ots straight up n down i think i crazy just looking at top. the two holes in the bottom case middle look bigger than other 4 holes and from diagram it does look like dowel pin sleeves go over bolts. is it bigger here for oil to get in there or what? i didnt take bike apart so thats why im so dumb about it plus im dumb about it. you said maybe only back hole is bigger? like there is these tiny little hole in back that squirt the oil into bearing huh? should these holes be cleaned with anything?

i gotta turn the bottom over and find these bolts too but yeah hole across says uses 150l 8m bolt too. i need look for oil diagram in cases but looking at it i think i get it fixed easy .anyhow i gota get bottom haf studied next plus try the wire thing ill b back as my name might really be funny since i dont know how these sumps work haha
 
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It’s 8mm for sure . I’m pretty sure it’s not a oil passage and no dowels. Oil is on the bottom right head bolt and top left. The other two guys know what they’re talking about much more than me . If you want to put it back together to learn how it works should be fine but since it’s right beside the bearing I would take it to a professional or get a new crankcase set before running it. Will probably damage the crankshaft which I’m pretty sure is more expensive than the case .
 
OK get ready to choke on numbers to do it right and solid as a rock. Helicoil used on spark plugs won't work here, the torque is higher and will likely destroy it UNLESS you know how to DOUBLE helicoil. You can try helicoil if you want but I wouldn't, you have to drill too big a hole.

8 mm. bolt is .314" diameter and if threads pulled or stripped you assume your hole is at least that big.

If you go to 3/8" SAE bolt (need one long enough before you even start, at least a grade 5 part. 3/8 is next size up and it MUST be a 24 fine thread one. NOT 16 coarse which will need threads cut deeper in material and you will end up with less than 50% thread and the bolt strips when you tighten it. Why it's 3/8-24, shallower threads and more strength. Maybe easier to find long bolt too.

3/8-24 has a minor thread diameter of .323" which is slightly bigger than the .314" above meaning you should end up with full depth threads, you use a 'Q' size drill bit (found in hardware store, Ace has them) and drill the hole with it to get a .332" size hole to get at least 75% thread in aluminum which will allow you to pull to torque if you use at least 7 full threads and more is better. The holes there are straight not angled. No helicoil needed. Done right with a 3/8"-24 tap the hole will be as strong as it was new just with a slightly bigger bolt in it. You will have to open the other case up with a 3/8" drill bit in that one hole and you use the one case half as a pilot tool to center the 'Q' bit up first on other case hole (USE! your dowel pins) before drilling the 3/8" out. The bit needs to be long enough to do that of course. You MUST pay attention to detail or it turns into scrap. Like when most people try to do it.
 
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3/8"-24, NOT 16. 16 will not have complete threads and strips when you tighten it, your thread height thing.

Thinking timezert is going to be problematic for you. You have enough hills in front of you now.
 
wow i got to retap or clean a bunch of case holes as they got corrode bad from whatever cleaner was used.
any good trick? does vinegar work good on a guess aluminum case holes?
my 2 middle case holes for 8m 150l bolt is like 3/8 big at top n smaller than 3/8 at bottom of hole any real reason for this? as someone said put a drill threw here when i go to redrill the thread holes as it wouldnt really help or even get things more off
i bought wrong stuff 5 16th stuff so i have struck out there n maybe buy the heli or timesert stuff or but 3/8 tap. theres really a bunch of options. anyone just fill with a hole with alumnium? how that would work? or even seat in studs haha. as i gotta but tap if go 3/8 or heli unless a 8mm uses a 9mm or 10mm but what i read was buy special taps. or just pour in some epoxy after i put it together haha that would be funny.. anyhow a 7/64 bit is taking forever to get a few mm in metal screw. i gota charge or get better bits. better bits make a world of difference in time. im actually stuck with shifter. i cant find any videos with detent or anyone cycling threw gears although i see lots of other detents n gears. im stuck or not doint something or need more research or its not put together right i didnt put it together or take it apart so i wonder. theres no clutch or crank n everything spins in nertral but cant get it in gear n from other videos looks like i should be able to cycle threw as i spin it. the metal stuff n lever is in place so i cant just turn it with screw driver. so its back to search on here as youtube is bust on this so far or i cant find a xs400. n man the manuals pictures r so hard if you didnt take it apart. r the gears numbered or do i have to count teeth? i suspect there right n maybe i just dont know how to get detent to work or could someone just throw gears on case n shifter b in wrong place i almost feel like guy told be he did something wrong n i just had no concept of gears or shifter that i forget maybe i call him n find put to if i got a fresh bag of bolts or theres just tons of bolts. anyhow thanks
 
Uh, you are hopelessly lost, your skills are not up to the task. If you have corroded cases that much likely ALL threads are dead and the bearing registers and flats are too, new cases time. You have 100 options there but the ONE i put is likely the ONLY one that will work and you do not grasp it at all. Epoxy absolutely will NOT hold there, I don't care who said so and that means the epoxy company too. You don't even grasp the belpw most basic of things and explained in my previous long post you didn't fully read.....

'my 2 middle case holes for 8m 150l bolt is like 3/8 big at top n smaller than 3/8 at bottom of hole any real reason for this?'

Of course it's bigger at the top; every bolt hole on earth is, the bottom is the size of the drill bit to set the thread ID area up. It HAS to be smaller.

Soap (alkali) EATS aluminum, they don't tell you that of course. When you clean cases it is death to not fully rinse them off and then a blow dry to clean water out of all threads RIGHT THEN or begging for damage. Surprise vinegar is acid and will damage aluminum too.

The transmission is above your understanding and nobody to show you the 500 page book on how it works.

Not trying to be mean at all but the skills determine your result there and you are missing most of them, number one being the ability to sort multiple ideas down to the one most likely to work.

You need help and extra eyes on the ground right there to help/stop you.
 
Wow wtf i apperiate help but im getting hosed by amc dude at hardware store sold me wrong shit n my dad on had a 5 16th. Why would i ask this shit if my skills r up to task haha i would of just do. Yeah plan to fill holes with vinigar or ph acid if so i wonder if aluminum eats faster than steel? And do what the third 8m hole is like 8m same im begining to think amc crazy i think its mold release reason. So wird idont have skillz but i know i nned that 40 or 60 dollar bit to get it done easy. Oh yeah if i cast a new case i gotta tap everything plus its on hard with roller things. If life depended on it yes make a whole epoxy bolt you just have helltaking apart plus i dont have epoxy. Yall say its a main but really it would run without so what the hell is a main to yall? I try do it right but yes people weld aluninum all the time without crack ithink it might be ghetto metal in it or dont even know standard aluninum mix so yeah i dont know but sidescrews yes people weld the halfs man i seen it done
 
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I know all of that and whopping amounts more. They use plastic to make long airplane wings now, but it like the gun does not apply to your problem. There being probably 5000 different plastic compounds.

Go ahead and run it with no bolt there, I dare you. You'll spin that bearing in minutes. Your stuff anyway and do as you will with it, I was trying not to be mean like I said but you embarrass yourself with the more you say. Like the 'main' thing. It means main cap bolt and you missed that entirely, it being a heavy stressed bolt that will likely pull epoxy threads like they aren't even there. $40-$50 dollar bit? I buy them for $5 at the hardware store. Epoxy bolt? I laughed at that when the stumps bought epoxy and I sold it, not ONE TIME did the proposed idea ever work, most people are lost on the proper application of epoxy to hold long term, they haven't a clue like here of the properties it has.

I have welded aluminum and it can be done, just not the way you posited. I did it on race engine heads going at $10,000 apiece and it worked fine.

I told you what to do there and you can't get rid of the 1500 other things banging around in your head to see it, a repair costing you literally pennies and more reliable if done correctly than the rest of the work you would likely do on the engine. I have stressed that type repair at 10X what you will see in your case with no failure. THAT skill is the one you don't have, to be able to weed out the worse methods to go with the one most likely to work BEFORE you butcher your stuff chasing it.

When like that luck is all you have left and I will wish you that. Past that I'm am done with bothering you, I really don't enjoy it and you cannot hold higher ideas in your head due to too much garbage in it.
 
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Holy shit now aluninum welding can be done n u fail to give any measures or answer simple question can the transmission be cycled easy with no clutch n crank like other vids? Anyhow does aluninum pour stick like lead? Its possible to seat studs with with lead n tin too._. Most of force is down n horizontal so you have no idea back of case with 6m probably has more lift. Im just bullshiting n u dont knew shit what a real steel bit is my store aint got it. Anyhow you talk math n show some stress test then say your math? Anyhow im trying to do math on a sliding cvt mod transmission with pullys on chain or belt n how many rpm the sprocet gets its like 3 or 2 inches where is rpm measured? My math is 11k at 100mph for 3 inch sprocet. A sliding speed shifter in form of suicide or handlever . Could you get 3 inch sprocet up to in rpm? Acamideis pully with chain doubled or tripled or to what ever rpm small sprocet can hit? Just thoughts but a cvt mod doable anyone done it?
 
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