I replaced my front master cylinder with a "76 type single master cylinder" that is on MikesXS. It has a 16mm bore. I also had to use a different style brake switch that is pressure activated,its a banjo bolt pressure switch. I replaced the brake line with a SS braided one and rebuilt the caliper including a new piston and used DOT3 fluid. My front brake is just fine. I am tempted to get another rotor or maybe find a compatible one that is slotted or drilled purely for aesthetics.

On the fuel note, throw the vacuum petcock away dont try to rebuild it. I wasted money on a rebuild kit and it just doesnt work. I got a manual petcock and I always turn it off even when I stop for a few minutes. Replacing the needles and seat valves is a good idea too.

I also buy the best gas I could, which is usually 91-93 octane. It helps slightly with things like detonation and keeps carbon deposits lower and you kind of need that with aircooled engines that get hot. Also, Our bikes dont have ECUs to retard timing obviously like modern engines do.
 
thought I would post a pic. Shortly after I took this pic, I re-did the seat cover and bobbed the front headlight (by simply flipping the stock mounts upside down)! I am now on the hunt for mini ape bars
 

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Well its just a good idea to replace both the petcock and some carb parts anyways. The floats could be sticking open from gunk or the needles could be worn. If the needles have ANY sort of visible ring on them, replace them. This should be your rebuild kit, https://www.siriusconinc.com/pro-detail.php?pid=&product_id=712

Is your clutch slipping? why replace it?

Yes. My clutch is slipping out of first gear. Can't find neutral. And on the clutch lever I can only activate the clutch on the first half inch.

Any one know the torque specs for the springs in the clutch and the riight side engine cover?
 

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Popping out of gear is the shift drum. These clutches even new any adjusted proper catch at the end of the lever. That's just the way they are. Spec out your plates and springs and if there are good you don't need to replace them.
 
Popping out of gear is the shift drum. These clutches even new any adjusted proper catch at the end of the lever. That's just the way they are. Spec out your plates and springs and if there are good you don't need to replace them.

Parts are here so I'm commited.

When I use the clutch leaver, it's 1 only inch of travel to activate it. When accelrating over 6k rmp the engine slips every time (On the highway it's really bad)

I'm the 3rd owner and all the parts and I mean all the parts have never been replaced. I don't care if it's borderline ok. I want peace of mine and no slipping of gears.

Shift drum? Please elaborate (first bike)

Just want to say thanks everybody for the positive replies
 
It could just need to be adjusted. My clutch grabs right at the very top. The whole action is maybe a half inch. But it doesnt slip or any of that
 
The drum is in the transmission. If it goes bad it won't be an easy fix. My guess is you clutch is out of adjustment. Are you using the right oil in the bike? It need to be for wet clutches.
 
Last oil change I used 20W 50. I adjusted the clutch after I changed my sprockets this summer.

New plates went in no problem. Removing the old gasket was not lol. I had to sand it off lol.
The drum is in the transmission. If it goes bad it won't be an easy fix. My guess is you clutch is out of adjustment. Are you using the right oil in the bike? It need to be for wet clutches.
 
You need to also check the clutch springs free length. If your replacing the pads and plates no need to check those. Make sure you soak the new pads in oil for a while otherwise you could burn them up. Wet clutch bike oil? Don't use car oil.
 
Id like to see what the clutch plates look like. I was thinking about replacing mine because it probably say half submerged for 20 years. I have no idea what a good clutch on these bikes feel like. All I know is Im not slipping. Do you have access to a decent caliper to measure the plates? Im curious to get a rough reference of slippage even though its not really substantial evidence to the clutch life.
 
The spec numbers are in the manual. I have pulled plates, pads and springs out of these bikes with 25+k miles on them and they where still in spec. A slipping clutch is usually caused by a few things like, wrong oil, bad clutch adjustment or sticking/dragging brakes.
 
Id like to see what the clutch plates look like. I was thinking about replacing mine because it probably say half submerged for 20 years. I have no idea what a good clutch on these bikes feel like. All I know is Im not slipping. Do you have access to a decent caliper to measure the plates? Im curious to get a rough reference of slippage even though its not really substantial evidence to the clutch life.

Send me a PM. I'll try and remember to send pics.of the old and new ones
 
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