All over the place...Maxim/Seca build

Cleaning the lower crank case :wtf:...a bitch to clean
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Whilst havin my morning coffee, looked at dynaglide's thread and got on ebay. Ordered a bunch of stainless steel bolts and washers for the covers...comes to about 45$ CAD. Previously had a look at the alloyboltz kit but comes to about 85$ CAD almost half of which is shipping. And with my past experiences with the Canadian customs...I would expect some 30-40$ of customs fees:shootme:...so 125$ CAD.
So I went with ordering almost by unit/size with free shipping and mostly no customs fees on 5$ shipments.
That makes for almost a 80$ savings...which will be used I am sure of it
 
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Now pondering what Will be the torque specs on those? Anyone have the specs for stainless bolt torques added to our engine covers?
Oh...and...read somewhere that when using stainless bolts we should apply antiseize.
Is that right?
 
Use antiseize. Doesn't really matter which type for our application but supposedly nickel is better than copper when used in aluminum.

There is a reduction in required torques. I do have the torque specs from an AlloyBoltz set somewhere.
Will have to find it tomorrow but I believe it's somewhere around a 25% reduction.
 
Standard thread, but needed the tool(which I made), only thing I need is the puller for the magneto part...
 
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God damn it...got the puller in the mail friday...not the right size nut....anyone have a precise model of puller to buy? To take the alternator out?
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I have the 1984 DOHC engine...any help appreciated....
 
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Meanwhile...managed to rig-up a DIY soda blast.....
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Pretty basic but does the job....
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Guess which one was soda blasted?
All I need now is a plasic bin to blast in to recuperate the media...baking soda from the Bulk Barn at 0,24$ per 100g.
 
God damn it...got the puller in the mail friday...not the right size nut....anyone have a precise model of puller to buy? To take the alternator out?
The rotor puller Yamaha part number is 90890-01080.
It's an M16x1.5 bolt.

Remove the retention bolt that you still have in the photo from the center of the rotor, screw the bigger bolt into the rotor while holding the rotor stationary (manual recommends a special wrench), and rotate the rotor puller/bolt into the rotor. It'll pop off.
There are some photos in the seca manual.

Some of the more expensive M16 rotor pullers have a ball bearing in the end to help reduce friction. Mine doesn't. Got it relatively cheap off ebay from china.
 
When I enter "M16 puller" on ebay I get pullers that are one simple bolt...is that right.?
The one I got (granted not the right size) is a 2 bolt thing(one going through the other)
Thanks for the input
 
Who needs costly tools to remove the valves?
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Took wood clamps I had laying around, took the cutting wheel to an old 17mm socket...welded it to one of the vise clamp ends and VOILA!
I wouldn't try to take the valves off of a diesel semi with this tool but for my engine it did the job.:thumbsup:


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The engine is completely apart now.
Wondering if I have to replace the crank bearings as I think I see wear...(shiny spots on the bearings)
Please share your thought...
Are they still available at a reasonable price?
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....or should I leave them in since they are "broken in" with the crank and case:umm:....am I way off thinking this?
 
I'll be cleaning/prepping for paint. Since the engine is in pieces It will be pretty easy to paint/powdercoat.
I've looked around the forum and here is what I gathered so far:
- Jugs and head should be vht'd for heat management reasons
- Covers can be powdercoat ed
....question is this....looks like it is still up in the air...
So here goes:
-I want to powdercoat the cases cause the lower gets the rocks and dirt etc...and I think that a powder coat would hold up good and would give me ease of maintenance...
-can it be done ?....lots of nooks and crannies in there .... so Faraday effect is an issue or is it ? Anyone did this can shime in?....
-On the cases...is heat management an issue?...I wouldn't think so but give your thoughts...

.....P.S. ...still would like your opinion on the crankshaft bearing thing...
 
Doesn't look like significant wear on the bearing shells visible in the pic. The lower crank bearings are the ones that typically would show wear. Regardless, measuring them is the best way to determine if they are still serviceable.

Can't comment on powder coating, but I can say that paint is very easy to touch up when required. And it is cheap, easy to acquire and apply...
 
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