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Well...You people Will start to think I have something against swing arms...Remember on my brat-Seca build I turned a monoshock into a dual shock...
After my failed attempt at modifying the swing arm,I resorted to the stock one which worked...But it did not solve my problem: I want my electrical tray to sit on the frame and the stock shock position does not allow for that.
So I decided to victimize yet another swing arm I had in the garage. I lowered the mount for the shock on the swing arm about 40mm.
Then installed it on the bike, tried it ...Feels the same as stock position so here is the difference...
Now I Will figure out the mount on the frame and it Will be the same wether I keep the stock swing arm or the modified one.
Had to put a wood block under the side stand and There is no way in hell the chain clears the swing arm....so i'll have to adjust tomorrow but it's progress of sorts.
Decided to redo the top mount of the shock, kept the clevis mount I had made and welded an extension from the frame to the mount.
Welded to the frame and plug welded where the original shock used to bolt on.
The top plate will make a good spot for the regulator once drilled/tapped.
Wanted to add a hoop but didn't want it round....Wanted something more squarish...
So with 7/8 tubing that remained from the trial for the Seca bratstyle's hoop, cutoff disks and my welder...I went to work.
And the hoop is on
It does, the reason I did this with the engine in is I wanted to have the weight to figure out the shock installation...Plus I sat on it and bounced on it and it works fine...And i still have a ton of preload available...
Yep..No going back...
Keep in mind what a full tank of gas weighs also battery, carbs, speedo/tach, bars, cables, exhaust and all the wiring. That could be another 75+ lbs easy.
When I say it works, I mean that it moves about 1/4 of an inch on the shock piston , I simply cannot bottom it out even with my best effort, and still with a lot of preload to go.
But I see your point...maybe down the road there would be a point where it would be too much...a straw that breaks the camel's back type deal....
Worst case scenario is that I have to buy a higher rated a spring and re-valve the shock...but i'm pretty optimistic about the whole thing.
With the shock thing out of the way, I decided it was Time to figure out how the tank was going to mount to the frame...Now the tank I have is not a direct fit i had to stretch out the channel and even then it was a tight fit. The rubber mounts on the frame came off and so did the little steel mounts under them.
So...Welded a steel rod on the tank.
And then a steel "Hook" on the frame
Notice how it is off-center. That's because the rod on the tank is also as the channel in the tank is off-center.
Then took 1,5" steel bar 1/8 thick to make the bottom mount.
All that was left to do was drill a hole , weld à bolt in there...And it is a perfect fit.
Keep in mind that most all tanks are rubber mounted to isolate them from the frame. There has to be a very good reason for this, or else the manufacturers wouldn't be spending the $$$ to do this. I'm betting that vibration is the issue, eventually causing cracks and leaks in the tank. Even with the balance shaft, the DOHC can vibrate pretty strongly at times. And that is in addition to road vibrations.
Well, the tank i'm using wasn't going to fit otherwise, I had to stretch it a little and even then the mounting points didn't fit...There will be rubber where the tank bolts down, I'll see if I can put some rubber between the rod and hook...
remember...I said I had to fight to get the engine in when I did the mock-up? Well...I do know she was laid pretty hard, as you can see from the bent tube where the centerstand attaches...and from the broken-off piece of motor mount in this pic...
checked everything and the only bent part is where the lower engine mounts are and the tube/brace is for the centerstand. Now, I didn't have any handling problems before the teardown but if I try to mount the engine I would have to drill a new hole on the bent plate for the bolt to align, the engine sits straight and level in the frame but it is not really satisfactory for me as I do not KNOW that the mount would still be strong enough maybe it bent but it might have stress fractures not seen to the naked eye...plus having a motor mount sit at an angle makes me believe that the engine axis maybe off a tad and gyroscopic orces doing what they do, it might throw off the handling at higher speeds or cause wobbling...
Keep in mind, I measured and measured....the rest (upper part) of the frame is unaffected, plus I have a lot of time invested in the frame, AND it is a safetied serial number so I need to take the lower part of one of the frames that I have laying around in the garage( frames from the donors that I do not have papers for) and graft it on my legal frame. After trying to figure out how I would go about doing it...there is a shit load of welds down there with gussets galore...I decided to cut higher and use slugs and plug welds to graft the lower "donor" part to my frame.
keep in mind...and I know a couple of you will underline this....measurements...measurements....measurements...AND...I will figure out some kind of a jig to keep everything lined-up while I weld everything in place...maybe even mount an empty crankcase I have in a box for good measure...like I said earlier she was less "clean" than I thought she was.