Another Dreaded LED Turn signal Thread

[XSLeo]

I suggest you stop trying 3 prong flashers, use a two prong, Use just the brown wire and the brown/white wire.
On the flasher the B represents battery or power in. That's where the brown wire hooks, The L is load this is where the brown/white wire hooks, On the 3 prong flashers the E is earth or ground. Not really needed.
If you get battery voltage on both sides of the flasher then it sounds like a bad flasher.
I recommend the LF1-S-Flat slasher from www.superbrightleds.com $8.95.
When you get it remove the wires from the plastic block. This leaves you with two flat blades that plug right into the stock flasher socket. The red goes to the brown wire the black to the brown/white wire. It may come with grey and black leads, the grey to brown the black to brown/white.
I have it and it works great. The only thing I found is it don't like the coil much, especially If a high output coil. Just move it away from the coil a few inches. On mine I was rewiring the bike so I just put it back by the battey/fuse box.
Leo

 

[bentwrench]

SuperbrightLEDs requires a minimum $25 purchase to ship...

I'm not afraid of hunting down the short, I just need some advice on where to start. Sounds like a new flasher unit is the start for now...

 

[bcware]

How about the fuse? Are you looking at the flasher prongs backwards with respect to the diagram? My EP34 has no marking on the unit, just a drawing on the package that describes what each prong is. It would be easy to get it backwards. When I was messing around I also blew a fuse when I plugged things in wrong. Old bulb fuses can also blow and be difficult to see the broken area.

Did the old flasher work at all?

What year is your bike? Every year has a different wiring diagram.

 

[the tim]

Got the proper bulbs but they still wont flash they come on but doesn't flash any help please. could the automatic canceler cause this?

 

[bcware]

Going to need more info than that, Mister.

 

[1lowdiesel]

Thank god for the search function, i knew someone else out there has had this problem. Just last night put some new led brake and turn signals in and they just stayed on. I'll try the resistors tonight and see if that does the trick. Thanks!!

 

[jmd_forest]

Just my opinion, but I found installing a "no draw" electronic flasher easier than the resistors, but then again, do whatever you are most comfortable with.

 

[bcware]

I also like my ep34 flasher better than the resistors I used to run. The only advantage to using resistors is that they are very cheap and a flasher is like $12. It's worth the money for the flasher in my opinion because it can be bought locally and there is less work involved.

 

[jmd_forest]

One of the reasons I went to LEDS is to reduce the draw on the undersized charging system on the XS400. Using resistors increases the draw back to approximately standard and negates one of the benefits of LEDs.

 

[bcware]

I like LEDS but there are very few DOT approved signals available. The ones that are available are incredibly expensive; like $150 a pair.

 

[jmd_forest]

Luckily, I am in NJ and NJ eliminated motorcycle safety inspections 2 years or so ago although I'm not so sure the "inspectors" would have picked up on the non-approved signals anyway. Generally NJ is anal explosive with regulations but this is one of the VERY few times regulations have been reduced. Regardless of officially approved or not, I believe the LED signals I am using are brighter and clearer than the OEM version and enhance safety. I've installed LED turn signals, stop lights, running lights, and plate lights. I'd like to install LED instrument lights but just don't feel like pulling the speedo and tach apart again and I can't get the indicator module apart to change out the high beam, neutral, and turn indicator

 

[bcware]

As long as they can be seen you're fine. I find the best testing is riding with someone else while you lead. They will let you know if they are bright enough, especially on a sunny day.

 

[1lowdiesel]

Well I decided to go the relay route. Got the ep34 relay and after a little work with the test light got it figured out. Took prob 15 min.

 

[the tim]

And where would i get one of the no draw flasher things to replace the relay? I will try one out.

 

[XSLeo]

Auto parts store. Right on the rack with the other electrical stuff. Maybe even Wal Mart.
Well done on the pics, they show the how to very well.
Leo

 

[Sesty]

Had success with the Flat LED flasher from superbright. just plugged in metal prongs...

just need a more permanent connection for the actual tail light.

im not too happy with the light i chose though might keep looking