Bike won't start. No Spark Right side

thlillyr

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My bike was running very sweet before the winter and during the cold months. It was stored in a shed during winter and now its spring and it won't start. Pulled the plugs and found that the right side isn't sparking during cranking. It sparks one time when i release the start button but nadda during cranking. (electric Start). 82 seca xs400. Left side is sparking just great still but will not hit at all. NO KICK STARTER on my bike.

What could have happened during the winter and how can i fix this?
 
Did you try swapping the plugsor new plugs? If you switch plugs and it sparKs then its a bad plug, if it doesn't then theres another issue. was the bike stored w/ gas in it?
 
That's a good idea I'll try that right now. Yes it was stored with a full tank. Didn't get a chance to winterize it. It sat for 5 months.
 
Then you may want to clean your carbs and put in some sea foam in the tank! Also get some fresh plugs in with an oil change wont hurt ya.
 
Tank did have fuel stabilizer when i parked it. Plus it has an inline filter. Heres hoping to clean carbs but i don't think thats my immediate issue. fuel flows freely from petcock on prime and during cranking.

Both spark plugs spark great on the LEFT side but same no spark on the RIGHT side until i let go of the start button and it sparks once. So plugs good something else is bad. All 4 of my fuses appear good under the seat. All lights works and i don't think that's my issue as one side is getting good spark.
 
Check the plug cap, wiring, connectors, plug wire, and coil.

Also check the engine ground cable. If it is not making a good connection, the ignition system has a tough time working when cranking. An easy way to test this is to connect a jumper cable from the engine to the battery negative and then try starting it. If it starts (or you get spark) then the ground wire needs servicing.
 
I am currently using jumper cables as I killed the battery cranking. Made no difference on the spark. Trying to get to the coils now but their a pain their jamned up in the frame under The tank right? Is the an easier way to check them besides pulling the upper supports off?
 
Ah I re read your post and tried with the ground cable directly on the the right engine block. No change. The left plug sparks great grounded to either block so I'm thinking is coil or cable. If I could get the dang things out I'd test them.
 
Test the spark plug boot first. It unscrews from the wire. The resistor in them is known to wear out and have very high resistance. They should be around 5K Ohms if memory serves me...
 
I tested both boots but i must have done it wrong as i couldn't get a reading on either boot. I ran out of daylight so tomorrow I'll test both wires on the left side to see if both wire work then its probably the coil.
 
I tested the wires, plugs, coils all are good. I cross the harness plugs on the coils and the problem swaps sides so that tells me the spark problem is something farther back in the ignition system.

Any more ideas? Whats the next step?
 
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If your plug wires are long enough, trim an inch off both sides. Sometimes they just don't keep their connectivity like they should. since they just screw in, and out. perhaps some moisture got inthere, and started some corrosion.

Cheapest thing to swap out is the plugs, 5 something for a pair. and if you don't have the 5k ohm caps. Use the manual to verify the coils are tested good.

if you can't find this locally,MikesXS has it http://www.mikesxs.net/product/23-3113.html
O'Riellys Auto parts http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/NGK0/8744.oap?ck=Search_8744_-1_3260&keyword=8744 3.29 here in WI, just not local to my store.
While your there, you can see if they have the plugs, NGK 5534
 
Thanks for sourcing that for me. I'll eventualy get those to make the bike like new. But as it stands I've tested wires, coils, boots and spark plugs work fine. Both wires and both spark plugs work great on the left coil. Both coils also work. I've crossed the connecters on the coils and the right coil spark just as well as the left coil. So i thiink my problem is either a corroded wire somewhere back in my wireing harness or TCI or distributor but i don't really know what those parts are on my bike.


The plugs i got last year from oriels or auto zone for 2$ each last year.
 
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So i thiink my problem is either a corroded wire somewhere back in my wireing harness or TCI or distributor but i don't really know what those parts are on my bike.

TCI CDI what ever it is, Is under the battery housing. attached to it as well as your voltage reg, and rectifier. Voltage reg, is small shiny, the rectifier has cooling fins, and the TCI or CDI is large and plastic. Turn signal delay auto cancel is hiding under the top cross bar under the fuel tank.(just forward of the seat.) In my memory there was only two serieous ground spots,one on the engine right next to the brakelight signal, and the on top of the frame next to the battery. Then you have 2 relays just forward of the battery, under the spot where the hiden autoturn cancel is. I forgot what type of bike you got. Hope this helps
Tobie
 
Run through the ignition testing procedure in the manual. Either the pick-up for the right ignition is bad, or the TCI is. Could be a wiring issue as well.
 
If you find your connectors are shot, Don't use connectors you would use on a car stereo. order appropriate replacement connectors from mikesXS. and follow the re-wire guide, as far as using the right crimp-er and wire if you decide to go that far. if they are not shot, use a small piece of sandpaper, and cover with a dielectric grease (should help long term corrosion) you can pop the blades and connectors out by taking a small finishing nail (small skinny one) and whackying the pointy end with a hammer. From there you reach into the connectors an pop the tab holding them in.
 
Could the Duckt taped connecter here be my problem? What are they 2 things on the frame anyway? Are they the pickup coils or my flasher relays?
full


And here what are these 2 things.
full
 
that piece of junk with duct tape could be a problem either way. Fix that.

Neither are your flasher relay, that one is located under the tank, behind the engine mounting brackets inside the frame.

The right one of the two things is your ignitor unit. There's some print plates in there, this is the piece that controls spark timing and stuff. Mine was broken a few weeks back, cost me 60 euros to replace :(
 
I cleaned off the connections but made no change. Is there a way to test this part with a multimeter? Also would this also cause the weak spark on the left side?
 
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