Brought home a XS cafe... need hel getting to fire

Yes. They keep the rubber from flexing.

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1976-Yamah...477123?hash=item444a4f25c3:g:qXAAAOSw7Rtdr0Tp Set for sale.

 

These are getting very hard to find! Only saw two sets like this for sale. Take good care of them.

 

These never grab at the top. Most about half way through. There are threads on this in the forum and the manual has a section on it. Just never kick or put any pressure on it without the cover on!!! It can and will break the case journal inside the motor.

 

I ran 130 mains with both stock and a 2-1 free flow exhaust. 140 was too big and 135 was a bit Rich. Stock 17.5 pilots and needle jets set on the third clip. I ride mostly at low elevation (200 ft and less) so yours may be different. Floats are set to stock xs360 level which is 24mm I think. 1 1/4 -2 for the the pilot mix screws. Use only real Mikuni jets. Jets are us.com has them. Yamaha also usually does.

 

Its funny, when I put my 360 carbs on the 400 block, I made no jet changes and it ran fine. The running gear on my bike is all stock, with the exception of the Emgo tapered exhausts. Im also at 130 mains with stock 17.5 pilot. The needle is one notch leaner than factory. Floats float height +1mm (stock =26mm, says Haynes manual)

If youre buying jets, you will end up with a couple sets. I ended up collecting 130-142.5. I havent made any changes aside from readjustments in a long time, even after installing a completely different engine. I ride in temps 40*F - 105*F at low altitudes and the bike runs fine. The engine acts a little funky at the temperature extremes but thats expected. Most of my riding is done at 65-85*F and you should tune in whatever you expect to be riding in.

 

My manual (pg 58) calls for 26mm +- 2.5mm for the floats but thought I set them at 24mm. Maybe 25mm I can't remember as it has been a while since I have done a set. A dyno or a o2 sensor will let you know what the bike needs.

 

Nice. Yea if youre using a dyno then youre getting superior results for sure. I definitely have more fun on this bike than my bigger bikes. Its nice to run some gears out on the backroad twisties and keep it under 50mph. New cables make a nice difference in feel, lubing them does too. I always thought that the throttles were purposely designed to have a long pull? as a means for safety. Im easily pulling as much as you are. My RD is a 1/4 turn throttle its very fast.

 

Nice progress on the build! I love the twin front disks on mine. Was a bit of a project but I have confidence in the bike now when I cane it around the hills.

 

Progressive offered 2 different spring rates when I purchased mine. I cant find the part # for the other set.

Progressive #11-1115 is what I have. Dennis Kirk has a set, which surprises me. I cannot remember if these were the firmer springs or just the firm ones but they sure did help with front end sag and brake dive. If Im not mistaken I used SAE30 wt oil.

 

It's funny that I have heard some people with this issue over the years. I have five of these bikes and they all still have stock setup forks with stock 20wt oil in them. I have never had any problems with "bottoming out" forks or any type of sag. I have weighed as little as 140 lbs and as much as 190 lbs ( without gear/clothes) and its never happened under any normal riding. If I sit on the bike and hold the front brake then push really hard it will compress a lot but not bottom out. Maybe people are using the front brake too hard? Maybe it's just me.

 

When I rebuilt my front end I added 20mm spacer to each for leg, works really well, especially with Hagen shocks on rear. did exactly the same with Ducati monster 900 and triumph Daytona (73). Always just reduces the sag at the front, and with these bikes is dead easy to do. Don’t even need to take the forks off.