Clutch replacement

[Maxim-umm]

I searched around and didn't quite find a definitve answer to my question, so i ask in a new thread:

I have a 1982 xs400j Maxim DOHC.

When replacing the clutch plates should I do both the fiber and steel plates or can i just do the fiber plates?

I believe the steel plates are ok since the bike only has 16,000 miles on it and it didn't have issues shifting since I've had it, but it did sit for the past 4 years. Oil changes never showed any sparkly metal shavings or any smell of fuel which tells me everything seems ok inside including the clutch.

My reason for replacing the plates is, well, I've never done it and I figure why not. I'm almost positive I've lost one of the ball bearings for the push rod so I'll have to get those anyway. I tried adjusting the cable at the lever and the left side casing but it's still very hard to pull.

In the mean time I'm pricing out the clutch replacement and will WD40/Iube the cable to see if that's the issue with the hard pull. Any more ideas are greatly appreciated as well as any advice.

Thank you everyone.

 

[drewpy]

your best to measure the thicknes before purchasing and also the flatness of the metal plates on plate glass to test for warp

 

[Maxim-umm]

Thanks drewpy. I figured as much and realized I overlooked the simple fact to check it before buying. I haven't bought anything yet and will do just as you said.

 

[NewHavenMike]

If the cable has any "out of the ordinary bends", like if you changed the bars and have more slack in the cable, a bind will definitely make it harder to pull. I replaced my clutch cable and it made a HUGE difference. My suggestion is, if it aint broke, dont fix it. Im talking about your clutch. If it doesnt slip then its OK.

A new cable is much easier and less expensive, also pretty much a routine maintenance if its hard and cracked.

 

[Maxim-umm]

Thanks Mike. I will start with seeing if I can lube the cable. If it doesn't move any smoother off the bike I'll end up buying a new one. If the lubing works I will reroute the cable to see if there was a kink I didn't know about before. I'll give an update on what direction ends up working for me.

 

[Maxim-umm]

Ok, so update!

I went with the cheapest fix first: clean and lube the cable. Well, as I was removing it I noticed a very tight corner in it (NewHavenMike!) Not pinched, but definitely a sharper curve than should be there. I decided to remove it anyway and clean it up. It was spotless. Reinstalled the cable with a "nicer" route and BAM! Easy as butter to pull.

With the bike on the center stand I started it and eased on the speed (no throttle). Pull the lever, rear wheel eventually stops. Slowly release lever and rear wheel starts spinning just as it should. Adjusted clutch at lever and engine and now everything is as should be.

Thank you for the insight and advice. This is why I love this site! Always helps to have some extra "eyes" on what your doing.

 

[NewHavenMike]

Did you make sure to leave slack in the cables tension? Ive riden a newer modern streetbike and the clutch action is night and day.. the newer bikes are very precise and easy to pull.. our bikes remind me of a dirtbike clutch where its loose and forgiving.. my clutch lever is pretty loose. I leave about 1/8” swing on the handle so i know the clutch will be fully engaged when im not using the lever.

 

[Maxim-umm]

Yeah, I made sure to leave some play in the lever. I even did a test run in first to make sure the bike would actually roll back into my garage under it's own power. I also have a 2012 Ninja 650 and it's clutch is very precise and easy to pull. Massive difference between the two bikes!