DSI's 1980 XS400

DriverSideImpact1008

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I recently picked up this 1980 XS400. It's my first XS400. It has little over 11k miles. The old school seat and drag bars on some 2-3" risers are the only mods on it. I'm not too familiar with bikes (cars and trucks are more my area of expertise), but I know the basics. So I have a little learning to do.

These are the pictures the PO sent me. I'll have to take a few of my own soon.
2012-03-29_17-26-23_973.jpg


2012-03-29_17-27-56_639.jpg


2012-03-29_17-27-37_875.jpg


The stupid flaming skull stickers on the tank were the first things I removed.:thumbsup: The bike was originally blue. But was painted black several years ago, it's scratched and there are a few rust bubbles starting to form around where the nameplates attached to the tank (I'm sure the stickers didn't help that). Inside the tank looks good though.

The seat is ripped, so I'll probably be getting that reupholstered, along with getting a stock seat so I can switch it up depending on my mood.

There is an oil leak somewhere. I think it's coming from the lower, finned cover on the front of the engine...whatever that is.

The mufflers are rotted out and falling apart inside (you can hear all the baffles and shit clanking around).

The electric starter doesn't work. It's a little bit hard to cold start with just the kick start. But once it fires up it runs pretty good. It definitely needs a tune up.

My plans for it in the near future are to make a custom exhaust and put on pod filters. Get it tuned up, adjusted, and stop the oil leak(s). Get rid of the rust on the tank, fill in where the badges were, and re-paint it.

Also, when you are releasing the clutch lever, it doesn't grab until it is pretty much completely released. If you pull the lever in maybe an inch, it disengages the clutch. And you don't need the clutch to shift, in fact trying to use the clutch while shifting makes it hard to ride, since the clutch isn't there until the very end of the lever's travel. It shifts well though without using the clutch, the trans seems in good working order.
My questions are: Is this normal for these bikes? Is it bad to ride it this way? How do you go about changing it?
 
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welcome to the forum.

clutch needs adjusting at the engine side first then 2-3mm at the lever.do a search in this forum.
 
Screw the clutch lever cable IN at the lever itself. If you twist it all the way in and you still need more adjusting go with the adjuster on the left side of the engine; it normally has a black rubber cap on it, just pry it off. You're going to need a 12 mm socket I believe and a Philips head screw driver. You want to loosen the 12 mm nut, then turn the center philips head "bolt" out (loosen), and follow by re-tightening the surrounding 12 mm nut.

You can just walk the bike up the driveway in first with the clutch in to for testing. Just release it slowly as you walk and you'll feel the grab point when the bike locks the rear tire suddenly.
 
Screw the clutch lever cable IN at the lever itself. If you twist it all the way in and you still need more adjusting go with the adjuster on the left side of the engine; it normally has a black rubber cap on it, just pry it off. You're going to need a 12 mm socket I believe and a Philips head screw driver. You want to loosen the 12 mm nut, then turn the center philips head "bolt" out (loosen), and follow by re-tightening the surrounding 12 mm nut.

You can just walk the bike up the driveway in first with the clutch in to for testing. Just release it slowly as you walk and you'll feel the grab point when the bike locks the rear tire suddenly.

Cool. Thanks!
 
G'day & welcome to the forum. I agree with Drewpy. Before I replace my clutch it was doing the same as yours and adjusting the clutch adjuster at the sprocket cover worked better than at the lever.
I have to say that the BIG seat is bloody excellent and I would definately keep that. :thumbsup:

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Yeah. I figured it out. Adjust at the lever all the way in, then adjust at the engine, then adjust the thumb screw back out. I may need a new clutch cable, there isn't a lot more to be adjusted, and the clutch still doesn't feel as perfect as I'd like it. Oh well, we'll see.
 
A few days ago I painfully found out it needed a new spark plug boot... Didn't have much feeling in my arm for a good 20 minutes. I replaced both spark plug wires/boots and got new NGK spark plugs. I also tested the cylinder compression. Both cylinders were the same.

Today, I determined it was only running on the left cylinder. I could grab hold of the right-side header pipe. I feel like it's gotta be fuel related, because as I said before, I know the right ignition coil is putting out a lot of voltage. After tinkering with the carbs a little bit I broke the bolt off that goes through the inlet's banjo fitting. :banghead:

So now I need to find a new banjo fitting. :shrug:
 
Yikes, I don't normally touch that banjo fitting more than I have to. Normally I just unhook the fuel line from the petcock over messing with the crush gasket on the banjo bolt.

How did it break?
 
I have one if you want it. $8.50 shipped paypal only:)
 
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Allllllrighty. Finally an update. It's running great, looking decent, and sounding mean.

Maintenance wise: It's got two, good-condition, used intake manifolds, a new rear tire, chain lubed and adjusted, oil/filter/filter housing o-ring(leaking)/ pickup screen cleaned/and new pickup screen cover gasket, and the clutch cable lubed and adjusted. I also had a vintage cycle shop clean and re-tune the carbs.

It's also got a new straight pipe exhaust. It's 1.5" straight back with no h-pipe, and re-used the old muffler mounting tabs. It sounds good, but it's hella loud. I might get some slide-in baffles to make it a little more tolerable.

The electric starter motor is shot as well as the start button. So that's staying inoperable. I assume since some of the XS's didn't have electric start to begin with, you can remove the starter altogether without adversely affecting anything. Just for the sake of de-cluttering/simplifying and losing a couple pounds. Is it as easy as it sounds or is it a pain in the ass?


A few things it still needs are:
-Seat reupholstered (anyone in SE Wisconsin know of any good automotive/motorcycle re-upholsterers??).
-New mirror(s). The one that's on there is old and shitty and it makes a better wind-vain than a mirror.
-Stronger, louder horn.
-Exhaust wrap.

I need to get some pictures and a video of it running. Those will be posted soon! :bike:
 
Southeast Wisconsin you say huh? Well I am directly between madison and milwaukee and I happen to have an old family friend who does reupholstering if she is still alive. I will try and get her contact info and get it to you. She is out of fort atkinson.
On a side note...which shop did you send your carbs to?
 
Oh that'd be cool. I've been looking on the internet for places that do it, but reupholstery is becoming a dying art.

I took it to Retrospeed in Belgium. I live in Ozaukee county, so it was pretty close by, they do good work and are really nice.
 
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