Electronic Ignition Issues, Troubleshooting, and "refurbishment" (1 cylinder misfires and crackling)

FarmBoy72

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Hello guys,

A few years ago when I switched my 78 from points to TCI I replaced all of the electrolytic capacitors in the ignition. These type of capacitors only have about a 10-15 year lifespan sometimes so its a good measure to replace them right at the start. After doing so the left cylinder would always fire dead on the timing mark but the right cylinder always seemed to wander +/- 3-5 degrees off the timing mark. The right cylinder will sometimes crackle on deceleration and miss at stoplights once warmed up. I've even had the engine die on me when coming off throttle to quickly slow for a turn. So i have decided to investigate. I put my O-scope on the ignition pickup inputs to the board and the coil drive transistor outputs to see if I could find any signal degradation and rule out the ignition pickup as the problem. (several years ago I swapped the coils back and forth and the problem was always on the right, so coils were already out of the picture)

The fun begins!
mlwiiSQ.jpg


With the O-Scope I was having a tough time getting a good trigger signal, and the bike wasn't heated up enough to cause the idling misfires in the right cylinder, but the right cylinder was doing its usual +/- 5 degree timing issues. There was no difference in the ignition trigger inputs, so it is good. I did notice a slight difference in signal between the coil-drive output signals. So I then looked at the input signals to the two transistors and could't see any large, noticeable difference. So my main focus is on the coil-drive transistors. I have seen where the XS650 guys have had a lot of grief with the old coil-drive transistors and that replacing them makes a world of difference. I grabbed some ST901T transistors from Mouser, only $0.99 each, so its worth a shot. I believe I read a forum article where a XS1100 owner found that the ST901T is a VERY close replacement when it comes to transistors. The EDT41-C35 transistors used on the YAMAHA ignitions is obsolete and no longer in production. Another note, while just idling the old transistors became significantly warm, they do work pretty hard to fire the coils!

Components I have replaced:
TThmZdy.jpg

So now thinking that the Old ETD41-C35's are bad or weak, I went ahead and replaced them. Got out my de-soldering iron and sucked some solder. A note, when working on these the boards are coated in an epoxy-like material, but acetone removes it quite nicely. If you do this you will want to remove the coating first, otherwise when heated it makes a heck of a mess and makes it difficult to solder in new transistors.

De-soldering iron:
m0Wg5Py.jpg


Old transistors and heatsinks removed from the board:
ke9a21i.jpg


Once I got the old transistors out, i took the heatsinks and cleaned them with acetone to remove the old coating. (notice the outline from the old transistors in the previous image) I wanted the new transistors to have the best contact possible for heat transfer. I also put a dab of thermal paste used for computer processors under each new transistor to aide in heat transfer.

ST901T's ready for insertion:
pe5nqdG.jpg


New transistors in place and ready to be buttoned back up:
1Er4yXH.jpg


After getting the ignition back into the bike, I warmed it up and then got out the timing light to see if it needed adjustment. The new transistors didn't affect my timing so no adjustment should be needed after this, but it is always good to be sure. I then went for a ride around town, is 90F out today, so it sure got the engine up to temp. I lowered my idle down to 1100RPM and the bike never had any misfires at stoplights so far, or right exhaust crackling. I will be riding it most of this week to campus and home to see how it fares. Will update in the future!
 
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Thanks Dave!

Some more information on the capacitors that I forgot to include:

EDIT: (older style TCI module, see xschris's post below for more info on the year differences)

The electrolytic capacitors need to be replaced with a quality brand, a good choice is Nichicon PS series. PS series capacitors are made from power supplies with high cycling, much like what happens in our TCIs. Audiophiles also love to use this capacitor series when refurbishing audio equipment. Here is a list of the labeled caps on the TCI board and their values:

C2: 0.47 Micro-Farad 50V
C3 0.47 Micro-Farad 50V
C6 10 Micro-Farad 50V
C7 10 Micro-Farad 50V
C13 0.22 Micro-Farad 50V
C14 0.22 Micro-Farad 50V
C20 4.7 Micro-Farad 50V
C25 10 Micro-Farad 50V

I will edit this later with specific part numbers for each so they can be easily purchased on Mouser.
 
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http://www.xs400.com/threads/tci-box-differences.12546/ People with 81-82 sohc boxes should see this and keep this in mind.

I'm glad you pointed this out!! I forgot about the two versions. I wish I could get ahold of a late model box, simpler is usually better.

Also, after a week or so of riding, the new transistors have made a noticeable difference. Seems to have a stronger spark as it starts easier and can idle lower than it ever has. When cold I could never idle below 1100RPM, it can now idle at 500RPM. (I don't have it set there, its set at 1200RPM warm, drops down when cold) Also, I now do not have idle issues when hot at stoplights. Its such a blessing knowing that I don't have to worry about it missing a few beats and shutting off at lights!
 
Maybe you can fix these for people and make a few bucks. Or put together the bits and sell them.
 
Can I substitute interest for desperation? my daily rider has a failing TCI and I can't afford a $600 replacement. I have a 1983 Maxim XS400K (DOHC) and the box says "TID12-07"


Post some pictures of it. If it is potted in, then I wont be able to take it apart, otherwise I can probably help. I'm thinking the DOHC are potted though
 
Yep, that's the problem. Unless the potting material is dissolvable, usually not easily, they end up getting destroyed trying to take apart. I would suggest trying to find a good used one from someone parting out a bike for those. Or if mechanically inclined, you could swap in an ignitech programmable ignition, they are about $150. I have one on my cb750.
 
Yep, that's the problem. Unless the potting material is dissolvable, usually not easily, they end up getting destroyed trying to take apart. I would suggest trying to find a good used one from someone parting out a bike for those. Or if mechanically inclined, you could swap in an ignitech programmable ignition, they are about $150. I have one on my cb750.
I'm mechanically inclined, check my most recent post for a more detailed description of my issue. Would you mind telling me a little more about programmable ignitions?
 
Sweet, so I just email them and they'll help me out with everything?

Probably be a bit of a language barrier to just e-mail and ask for help. You have to have some skills/abilities or willingness and patience to adapt one of these. The ignitions on these bikes are simple, so it's mainly a matter of looking at the XS400 wiring diagram, and mapping out the current module pinout to match up to the Ignitech. I hope to swap one onto mine someday but want to finish my CB750 first so I haven't started looking into it.

If your'e dead set on trying it, I might be able to spend some time looking through things to make a basic wiring diagram. Ideally I would try to use the connector off the stock module and just wire it up to the ignitech plug.

Tough part will be getting a timing curve for the engine to start with. The ignitech will have a very mild curve in it that won't make much power, but this is the beauty of the programmable ignition, might be able to squeak out more power than it originally had with the factory emissions-minded timing curve.
 
Probably be a bit of a language barrier to just e-mail and ask for help. You have to have some skills/abilities or willingness and patience to adapt one of these. The ignitions on these bikes are simple, so it's mainly a matter of looking at the XS400 wiring diagram, and mapping out the current module pinout to match up to the Ignitech. I hope to swap one onto mine someday but want to finish my CB750 first so I haven't started looking into it.

If your'e dead set on trying it, I might be able to spend some time looking through things to make a basic wiring diagram. Ideally I would try to use the connector off the stock module and just wire it up to the ignitech plug.

Tough part will be getting a timing curve for the engine to start with. The ignitech will have a very mild curve in it that won't make much power, but this is the beauty of the programmable ignition, might be able to squeak out more power than it originally had with the factory emissions-minded timing curve.

Wow thanks, funny enough, I emailed them and they said I could buy a non programmable one that would be plug and play or a programmable one with an adapter to fit my bike, does that sound right?
 
Wow thanks, funny enough, I emailed them and they said I could buy a non programmable one that would be plug and play or a programmable one with an adapter to fit my bike, does that sound right?


Yeah, that sounds right, I bet they had somebody else want one and already made the adapters. If they have the adapters, go for it! My CB750 is a common swap so they make ready-made adapters already for it as well.

EDIT: looked at their website, they do list the non-programmable option. If you do get quotes, let me know, I might consider getting one too for my bike (programmable one)
 
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Here are the quotes I got when I asked them about my bike, I'm waiting for an invoice now
It took a solid second or two but I got a reply and they gave me the programming software, it'll arrive on the 17th!

Is there a guide on where to start off with tuning this thing, or even just a graph of the stock timing advance?
 
It took a solid second or two but I got a reply and they gave me the programming software, it'll arrive on the 17th!

Is there a guide on where to start off with tuning this thing, or even just a graph of the stock timing advance?


Might be able to look at service manuals to see if it states what max advance is and when it occurs. This should give a decent starting point. Would have to check on the motor what base advance is set to, probably around 10 degrees.

If I ever get around to swapping one on mine I'd probably rig up the stock ignition to measure the advance at various speeds.
 
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