Engine randomly dying

[jonjkim12]

xschris:

thanks again for keeping up with all my questions. so i've researched most of what you've mentioned here, and plan to knock them out once the center stand arrives (hopefully today). BUT i dont know what/where my capacitor is nor do i know what to do with it?

this morning i checked my points and replaced my fuel filter. photos attached. one thing to note is my right point (when open) had a little thing sticking out from the center of where the contact is made, i could hear it scratching my feeler guage as i was checking the gaps. can you see it in the photo? would this cause anything? if you see anything else in those photos, please do mention.

i also checked the air pods (until i order those Unis, i dont want to order them yet because i'm not prepared to rejet once i get them) i checked the size of my air pods and the rubber that connects it to the carb said 52mm so i'm assuming thats the size i'd buy? if i buy the same size but Uni's would i need to rejett? also not sure how to clean aside from blowing compressed air at it.

also check my oil level and i'm good. gonna buy some 20-50 incase i lose some oil doing the points.

def learning a lot, thanks again for you guys' help.

 

[xschris]

Most often you don't have to re-jet with uni pods because they are an oiled filter. The pods you have have a lip on them that restricts air flow to the two air ports on the sides of the carbs. Uni's wont have that. If you have a tip on one of the points you need to replace them. That will mean you have a hole on the other side. The condenser is located on the frame under the gas tank. I see bits of varnish around the mouths of the carbs I would pull them and give them a cleaning. You will also know what jets you have in it.

 

[Lou Ranger]

Did you cut an inch out of the fuel line before inserting the filter? If you maintain the same overall length afterwards, it lines up straight and stays tucked in under the tank.

Could be the camera angle, but yours looks a bit splayed out.

 

[jonjkim12]

@xchris, ok cool, i'll look into that. how about pod length? i see different lengths but couldn't find a descriptions for what length does. can you also tell me where to hook up a homemade manometer (bottles/hoses) i tried to find a vent on my carbs but couldn't find it.

@lou i actually cut a half inch off of it. didn't end up how i wanted it, it normally hangs downwards it doesn't stick out like it looks.

 

[DARKMIDKNIGHTWARRIOR]

For the pods you don't want them too long. Around three inches should be good. Too long will add more weight hanging off the boots and depending on what you do with the battery box, could be in the way.

 

[jonjkim12]

ok got it. does the length provide more performance? i don't have anything behind the pods so it won't be in the way. also i notice the Unis don't come in 52, just 51 or 53mm. i know my 52 is a little bit big with the clamp holding it tight, should i go with a 51 or 53? wouldn't changing a size like that call for rejetting?

 

[jonjkim12]

does this look like a good replacement?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/K-S-Technol...&fits=Model:XS360&hash=item43c65dfef9&vxp=mtr

 

[xschris]

These carbs measure 50mm. You can get a 52mm to clamp down on them. http://www.ebay.com/itm/UNI-Foam-Mo...Parts_Accessories&hash=item27e96f3387&vxp=mtr These are some uni's I have used with xs360 carbs in the past. They will clamp down on the just fine. For the points you need to make sure you get a left side and a right side. As they are different.

 

[jonjkim12]

Hey xschris,

i'm curious what the difference is between these four below? and for all of them the closes size they have is 51mm, is there any difference in the length? i still haven't been able to find an explanation for what the length does.


http://www.bikebandit.com/aftermark...2-stage-angle-pod-universal-motorcycle-filter

http://www.bikebandit.com/aftermark...tage-straight-pod-universal-motorcycle-filter

http://www.bikebandit.com/aftermark...ni-flex-core-sock-universal-motorcycle-filter

http://www.bikebandit.com/aftermark...universal/uni-pod-universal-motorcycle-filter

 

[jonjkim12]

Hey guys few more questions,

my center stand is in, so finally some time to do some real work. my center stand didn't some with any hardware, so i need to go buy the bolts/nuts today, any suggestions?

also i thought these came with a spring of some sort, is it supposed to just swing freely?


going to adjust my valves today, i know there are supposed to be two openings, but from the forums/youtube seems like its different based on the year/model and my manual doesn't say where it is/ can anyone point it out?

 

[xschris]

A longer filter will allow more filtered air in. The ones with no plate or cap at the end will be less restrictive. The last one is the style I have used. There are differences in the foam density for the type of motor and conditions you will ride in. Uni's website would have more info on this. Or you could just google the question.

 

[Lou Ranger]

The manual should show you how to do the valves and where to access them:

http://www.xs400.com/forum/showthread.php?t=4503
​

As to the centre-stand, there definitely is a spring which holds it and snug against the rubber grommets when it's not in use.

Here's a pic of my Maxim's stand showing the spring:

 

[xschris]

There should be two caps at the rear of the motor also. You can still get the two bolts and spring from yamaha I think. You may also be able to find them on eaby.

 

[jonjkim12]

Thanks xschris,

found all the valve tappets, there should be 4, correct?

still waiting on the bolts to come in so i can mount the center stand.

then i'll start the maintenance in the order you guys stated before.

thanks for all your guys' help, i'll update asap.

 

[xschris]

Yes four.

 

[jonjkim12]

Quick Update:

check my valves, they were at .004 and .007. Also checked my timing, found that my left point was way off, right was okay. Corrected that. (but didn't replace it yet). Thought my problem was actually fixed, until same issue happened again. (btw my right exhaust intake is goldish, but not my left)

therefore, today i will finish making my manometer while my engine cools down for 24hrs, then increase my valves to .005 and .008 (i read it better to be on the bigger side) then replace my points. then syn my carbs with the new manometer.

not sure if i mentioned this part, but when the bike dies from downshifting, i've noticed that when trying to rev immediately after downshifting it has that sounds like i'm out of gas. i bought some seafoam that i'll put in my tank after doing the above.

could my condenser be my source of problems? also, i took a picture of my bike without the tank and saw two cylindrical things (not my condensor) on each side of my frame where the tank sits, not clue what they are.

 

[jonjkim12]

photos attached

 

[Sesty]

those are your ignition coils, can test their resistance with a multimeter

Syncing the carbs may solve more problems than you think!

 

[xschris]

I would replace the condenser if your are putting new points in.

 

[jonjkim12]

since you mentioned condenser, one thing i wanted to point out is that when i was doing my timing. i noticed my gauge lights were getting dimmer and dimmer. assuming i was just using my battery up since the motorcycle wasn't running when i had the key turned.

is that normal? i had to get a battery tender to charge it up after doing my timing. is that related to my condenser?

the bike wouldn't start after i set my timing, i waiting 24hrs (did't charge the battery yet) and kicked it and it started. the second time i set the points (just to make sure) it wouldn't start after 24hrs so i had to get the tender


EDIT:

read some more on different bike forums, a lot of it seems as if i grounded the wire somewhere (hope i'm using that term correctly), i'm going to trying turning the "fork" that connects the wire to the points 90 degrees so the metal part can't possibly be touching anything else inside there. if one of the sides were grounded, is it possible for neither side to get any electricity?