Flooding issue?

Jrod

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Troubleshooting some issues and trying to get my bike to start! I pulled the carb apart yesterday and cleaned it. The jets are the manual standard size, but the PO changed the air filters to the aftermarket uni ones. I set the air adjustment screws for each carb 3 turns out per the advice I read here on the forum. The video link below is right after I put the carb back on the bike. You can hear there's still an issue and it dies pretty quickly. The other link is a recording from trying to start it tonight. It initially caught for a couple seconds, then got progressively harder to start and died quicker.

Are these symptoms of flooding? If not, does you have a guess for what to try next?

https://www.dropbox.com/s/7xdzuktasz2nya0/20201126_183223.mp4?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/subm8vuvhr9sxku/Bike starting issue.m4a?dl=0
 
What do the plugs look like? Post some pics of those. If you have brass floats those should be set to 26mm. Make sure the bowl gasket has been removed when you do this. Are you using the enrichening rod at all? It should be all the way out for a cold engine. Then in one click as the rpm's go up and then all the way in when the rpm's go way up. Do you have good fuel flow to the carbs?
 
Pics of the spark plugs are attached. Gap is set to .028 on each. When I pulled the carbs the brass floats were set around 22mm, so I changed to be 26mm that you've recommended in other articles. (Gasket was removed when I was doing the measuring, and I measured with the carb upside down and the float needle in the closed position). I am using the enrichening rod all the way out, and I haven't been able to keep it running long enough to even need to start pushing it in.

I believe the fuel flow is good. I drained the tank two days ago and refilled with new gas. Fuel flowed strong through the line, and I checked the banjo bolt for obstructions and it was clear. Is there a different way I should check fuel flow through the carb?

I know I need to synch the carbs, but I haven't been able to keep it running long enough to get to using my homemade manometer.
 

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I also bought some of the diamond fire E3 plugs and tried those today, but I didn't get anything different using those.
 
Those plugs are fouled and no good. E-3 are not good in these bikes. I would either use the stock ngk bp7es set to .030 with a 5k ohm plug cap or use the ngk bpr7eix iridium plugs with a non-resistor caps. If the bike still has the stock vacuum petcock set it to pri and the fuel will flow from the hose. That way you know your getting fuel.
 
So I bought new plugs and caps as suggested. There are some threaded metal sleeves on the threads. They prevent the plug from fitting into either the new or old caps. Is it OK to run the plugs without these. Seems like the PO did...
 

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Yes that’s ok. Just make sure you run non-resistor plug caps with those resistor plugs. I use the iridium ones on my bikes. I get them cheap off eBay or even Napa has them for a good price.
 
UPDATE:

I got busy with work Tuesday, but today I finally got a chance to put the new plugs and caps on and give it a shot. I'd say it's a partial success. It will now start consistently with the aid of starting fluid and run for like 2-3 seconds till the fluid runs out. This points back to a carb / air & fuel problem right?

I tried messing with the mix screw on top of each barrel of the carb, (was set at 3 turns out, went down to 2, and up to 4.5), but no luck. I'm thinking the next step should be to pull the carb off again and replace all of the jets/clean it again? Is this the right direction, or is there something else I should try/look for?
 
To check a few things off I would make sure the valves are set to spec on the engine. I would FULLY dismantle the carbs clean and inspect everything. Post pics of the carbs so we can see if anything stands out. I would also remove the slide needles to make sure those are assembled correctly. Are the plugs wet after you trying to start? Pods are going to make things hard. Even with them on the bike it still will run lean and if other issues are really to blame it will only make them more pronounced. At some point it might be a good idea to install the correct oem intake and filter system.
 
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OK, will do! I just checked valve clearance. It was loose. I set the intake side to .004 and exhaust side to .007. Next, I'll follow your advice on pulling the carbs apart and posting pics.

Prior to changing the plugs and caps, the plugs were typically wet after trying to start the bike. After the change, as mentioned, the bike will start with starting fluid. Today, after setting valve clearance, I tried starting it without the starting fluid and then pulled the plugs. The plugs are not wet at all.

I will start looking for an oem air system. Do you have a set of them for sale by any chance? I see them on ebay frequently, just figured I'd rather buy from someone on here.
 
I would think it's something in the carbs. I do have a complete intake system. I will P.M. you on that but I would just work on getting the bike to start and run on gas from the carbs first.
 
So after a two month holiday hiatus, I've finally been able to get back to the bike. Tonight, I pulled apart the carbs as suggested and took photos. Does anything stick out to you guys?

I'm planning on boiling them to try to get them thoroughly clean, but that's my main idea right now.
 

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The float valve needles and seat o-rings look old and worn out. The o-rings should be a tight fit into the carb bodies in order to seal well. If the needles have any type of wear marks on them or are hard at the tip it's time for new ones. Also the pilot jet plugs look like them are old also. Those should also be a tight fit into the bodies. I would replace any or all of them if this is the case.
 
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