Fork Yoke Cover - How to remove? (grrrr, WTF)

[Phil_B]

Please, someone, tell me how to remove this so I can get at the lower fork yoke bolts.

Doesn't appear to be fastened by anything. But, after a good bunch of not so gentle wacking with a hammer buffered by wood, I'm getting nowhere.

The manual I have is silent on this matter.

Please help

 

[SoulMan]

Based on my recent experience of rebuilding my forks I believe you have to take the forks tubes off to get that piece off. What are you trying to do exactly?

 

[Phil_B]

Thanks for the reply!

Just get at the bolts on the yoke, to realign the forks a bit. I figured if I could just push it up a bit it would make the job much easier.

I had imagined I would go at the bolts with a socket wrench, but maybe I need open or box end wrench under it?

Is it actually fastened with anything? Don't want to take it off, just slide it up the forks a bit.

 

[SoulMan]

Thanks for the reply!

Just get at the bolts on the yoke, to realign the forks a bit. I figured if I could just push it up a bit it would make the job much easier.

I had imagined I would go at the bolts with a socket wrench, but maybe I need open or box end wrench under it?

Is it actually fastened with anything? Don't want to take it off, just slide it up the forks a bit.

You can't slide it up as there are two outer tubes on top of them over the inner fork tube. Give the open end wrench a try.

I don't know about what you are doing but without taking the forks tubes off I know that piece isnt moving.

 

[Phil_B]

You can't slide it up as there are two outer tubes on top of them over the inner fork tube. Give the open end wrench a try.

I don't know about what you are doing but without taking the forks tubes off I know that piece isnt moving.

Okay, Thanks for the advice..... Thankfully i didn't damage it with my attempts.

Much appreciated!

 

[sandmanred]

Sounds like problems solved but for the future I find parts diagrams on any of the sites that sell motorcycle parts useful for seeing how everything goes together.

 

[Phil_B]

You can't slide it up as there are two outer tubes on top of them over the inner fork tube. Give the open end wrench a try.

I don't know about what you are doing but without taking the forks tubes off I know that piece isnt moving.

Yep had to go under them with an open wrench. Hard to crack them, but worked fine once I got the bolts moving.

Thanks again!

 

[xschris]

Make sure to re-torque those bolts to spec. Usually to get to those you should start from the top of the trees are work down. That way everything is out of the way from them for easy access.

 

[Phil_B]

Make sure to re-torque those bolts to spec. Usually to get to those you should start from the top of the trees are work down. That way everything is out of the way from them for easy access.

I don't have a torque wrench. Plus they need an open end wrench.

They were good and tight, and I put them back like that... had a test ride and checked they hadn't loosened.

Anything else i should do?

 

[xschris]

Frame bolts or any torque specified bolts should be set to the correct amounts. They need this for safety and strength. If you removed the tubes the way they were meant to be you would have been able to torque them. Auto zone or most auto parts stores sells ok torque wrenches for under $50 just get one that can handle at least 100 lbs. I have a beam one that goes to 75 and a adjustable one that does 150. If a bolt needs 75 lbs and is only set to 20 bad things can happen. You can over torque bolts and break things or cause them to snap over time. They are worth every dollar.

 

[Phil_B]

Frame bolts or any torque specified bolts should be set to the correct amounts. They need this for safety and strength. If you removed the tubes the way they were meant to be you would have been able to torque them. Auto zone or most auto parts stores sells ok torque wrenches for under $50 just get one that can handle at least 100 lbs. I have a beam one that goes to 75 and an adjustable one that does 150. If a bolt needs 75 lbs and is only set to 20 bad things can happen. You can over torque bolts and break things or cause them to snap over time. They are worth every dollar.

I definitely get your point. Spec is Spec...

But, I'm not sure it would be possible to use a socket style wrench on these bolts if you intend to keep the plate on. You have to slide the plate into place before the yoke and bolts are put on/in, if I'm not mistaken.

In this case, i was doing a front end alignment using the method below... It worked great! No more pulling to the left. But it requires everything to stay in place on the bike.

I was very careful to put the bolts back to the same tension where critical, top yoke center, bottom left axle bolts, etc. And perhaps I'll go get a torque wrench to check them and use going forward.... But don't think ill be able to use it on the bottom yoke bolts, which are of course critical.

Humm, not sure what to do...at least the torque wrench will give me a sense of how tight the spect tension is on other bolts. In this case, the bottom yoke bolts were really tight, and i did put them back that way.
........................................................edit...............................................................

ahhhh,guess maybe I need these....

https://www.amazon.ca/TEKTON-2575-8...ocphy=9001316&hvtargid=pla-433945411667&psc=1

But i dont think that will work will it....trying to determine torque with that. Torque wrench uses the axis of the bolt. This adapter would put it off axis. Actualy, now that I think about, not even sure how that works, at all, being off axis. Socket drivers turn on an axis, you know.

 

[xschris]

This is how I do the front end. I first remove the front wheel and fender. Then the top yoke and headlight ears and bottom yoke cover. Then loosen the bottom yoke. To align I then put the wheel axle in hand tight then fender. This will align the lowers. Then I put the top yoke on with just the center bolt hand tight. Then slide the tubes up into the top yoke until a few mm's are showing or just till the largest part of the tube is at the top of the hole. When both sides are equal I then torque the lower pinch bolts to 25.5 lbs. Then remove the top yoke and slide the cover and headlight ears into place. Then the top yoke and center bolt back on. Torque and tighten the center bolt first to 30 lbs and then the outer yoke bolts next to 8.5 lbs. Tighten the front fender then install the front wheel and Torque the axle to 76 lbs and pinch bolts to 14.5 lbs. Make sure the wheel pinch cap is in the correct direction and the gap is in the back. Torque the front bolt first. Tighten and then torque the rear last. I have been doing this for 20 yrs and almost 35k miles with five of these type bikes without any handling issues. If you want to do it another way then have at it. It's your bike.

 

[SoulMan]

Thanks xschris. Thos really helps me since I have my forks off. I was trying to figure out how I would put it back together.. Haha