Hello Everyone.

[Ron Cate]

LOL
It may be hard to get across but the general idea is what i need.
I think, since the bike was not running when it was handed over to me and the matter that I don;'t know how long it had been sitting, and that I have no idea if it was slipping before or not, I am going to take it apart and see what i can find.
I may be back with more dumb questions.
I want to thank you and everyone else that has stepped in to advise me, for the help.
Thank you.
RonAmuck

 

[amc49]

You're going to find out that beyond burned up plates which are rare, there will be very little to see there unless somebody has put stuff together wrong and you may not catch that either.

Go ahead though, the tear apart and go back together will teach you some things. The first one I did was in winter outside and I still remember how cold my fingers got and how I could not work tools because of it. Back in the '60s and the clutch had to be on a press table to disassemble it as it was held together like an automatic trans clutchpack with a single huge snapring. On a YM1 305 Yam with the rare primary instead of secondary shaft clutch driven directly off the crank end. Got it back together with new clutch plates and driving it around while it was snowing!

 

[Ron Cate]

I had a 1500 Vulcan apart added a stronger spring, but that was 10 years ago, I had to get some coaching vie phone to get it back together right. I sat cross legged on the floor by the bike with an ear piece in my only good ear, while a VROC guy walked me through how to put it back together. took about 45 minutes on the phone if I remember right and it probably has 70000 miles on it since then.
so really don't want to do it just for the practice. LOL
But will if it is unavoidable. Think I will re-change the oil on more time.
I think you are probably right about the wrong oil in it.
So Thanks for your help.
When I get done with this I will address the speedo as i see it is not working.

 

[JPaganel]

XS clutch replacement is dead-nuts easy, especially compared to the 1500 Vulcan (I count that as possibly the worst bike I ever worked on).

I use Shell Rotella 15-40 or 20-50 in all my bikes. It's a diesel oil, but it is JASO-MA certified and is hella cheaper than anything branded "motorcycle oil". Works fine.

I would try a couple of changes of correct oil, and if that don't fix it, a new friction plate set.

 

[xschris]

Walmart has bike oil for around $4.50 a quart.

 

[amc49]

X2 post #24..................The Shell there is considered oil for big trucks and why it gets away with some zinc still in it. I sold megagallons of it when I was in parts, it makes a good car oil too.

Running 15-40 in a car specced for 5-20 and it runs fantastic.

 

[Ron Cate]

so, I have the out side housing off the Clutch, It seems a bit dryer than I thought it would be, but it has been at least 48 hours since I had it started.
My questions this time is, shouldn't all the plates move when I pull the clutch lever. At the present it is just the outer two.
Ronamuck

 

[Ron Cate]

After 4 oil changes including Yamaha 20w50 and no real change in the slipping problem, in fact it may have been getting worse, I pulled the basket. Could have saved all the effort and money up to that point.
some of the plates are so fried it was unreal.
Anyway, I took a chance and have orded a used set from e bay., hope I don't regret that.
All but one bolt holding the outside cover on was only slightly more than finger tight, which tells me it was hurriedly put back together before or done by some one that knew even less than me. All the screws show evidence of the wrong screwdriver.
Question" how tight should I make the 6 friction plate bolts that hold the springs? None of them were much more than finger tight also, which may have caused the problem in the first place.
I want to thank everyone for their help on this, It is much appriciated. I am also sure there will be more questions as I see missing nuts/bolts, side panels, tank tags, and broken clutch lever.
RonAmuck

 

[amc49]

'None of them were much more than finger tight also, which may have caused the problem in the first place.'

Probably your problem if not the plate condition. The metal plates can be used but really need new fiber covered ones as they only wear a bit until considered dead. The spring bolts tighten in to hit positive then enough torque to keep them there. Finger tight would have been WWAAAAAAYY too loose. Don't forget the little ball that goes in there between the pusher and main pushrod.

 

[Ron Cate]

I did use the wrong term sorry. It is the fiber plates that are litterly burnt to a the point of being flakey.
should I do anything to clean up the metal plates. And thanks for the advice on the spring bolts. I thought that seemed wrong but wasn't sure.

 

[amc49]

If the metal plates have turned blue from overheat it's best to get those too. If not check on a piece of glass for flatness, very light wear is OK but any heavy scoring dump 'em. Using say 320 sandpaper to scuff both sides up will help the steels bite but you must be dead sure to get all abrasives off the parts or it eats motor alive. The steels get a profile shape due to being stamped out, look at all carefully and make them all go in the same way, pick one way or the other but make all the same. One side edges will be sharper than the other. The basket notches need to not have any grooves worn in them, those hang clutch release up to drag.