-
Enjoy XS400.com? Consider making a donation to help support the site.
XS400.com receives a small share of sales from some links on this page, but direct donations have a much greater impact on keeping this site going.
How to remove to remove the fuel tank of a Maxim?
- Thread starter chrisd1984
- Start date
fuel tank comes off very easily. Just unscrew the one bolt under the seat right where your crotch would sit. (open the seat using the key and the little latch next to it, feel around a little). Then pull off your fuel line and vacuum line (see other thread) and lift up the back of the tank. Do make sure your petcock is on ON or RES, to minimize fuel spillage. The tank sort of clamps to the frame on the front, have a little look between and you'll see how that works. Wiggle it about a bit, moving it towards the back of the bike and it should come off easily.
You'll need to take off the tank and seat for a number of things. For example, if you want to check your wiring. Or dismount your carbs. But it's easy and once you've done it once it takes about 30 seconds.
When putting the fuel tank back on be careful not to push the bike off its center stand (or jiffy). Cause you'll be pushing it forward and holding it with two hands, it's easy to push the whole bike off the stand and you wont have any free hands to keep it upright. Almost fell with my first try, at least
Have fun figuring out how everything works, I had a blast the first time.
You'll need to take off the tank and seat for a number of things. For example, if you want to check your wiring. Or dismount your carbs. But it's easy and once you've done it once it takes about 30 seconds.
When putting the fuel tank back on be careful not to push the bike off its center stand (or jiffy). Cause you'll be pushing it forward and holding it with two hands, it's easy to push the whole bike off the stand and you wont have any free hands to keep it upright. Almost fell with my first try, at least
Have fun figuring out how everything works, I had a blast the first time.
actually, not 100% sure if it's the same on your XS. I think it is, but I have a slightly later model. But the general idea is the same I think.
chrisd1984
XS400 Addict
Ok thanks for the reply, very informative. Think I got it but for the vacuum line, I can just jerk it free with the engine off? Don't suppose you would have a photo of the vacuum line would you?
Just curious Chris.
Is your bike not running or running but very poorly? You seem awfully anxious to take it all apart and I am worried that it will be weeks or months before you get to enjoy it a bit.
Now that the nice weather is (maybe) here, you may want to ride it a bit and then figure out what it needs - or doesn't need. We won't get any of these nice days back later...
Is your bike not running or running but very poorly? You seem awfully anxious to take it all apart and I am worried that it will be weeks or months before you get to enjoy it a bit.
Now that the nice weather is (maybe) here, you may want to ride it a bit and then figure out what it needs - or doesn't need. We won't get any of these nice days back later...
chrisd1984
XS400 Addict
Hey thanks for checking but no, it's been certified and everything runs very well on it. New battery, tires, wires, etc. I'll just have to do the oil change/filter and I guess now change the fuel filter as well. I just want to get as much knowledge on the bike as I can to be able to make repairs on it in the future or to help me diagnose any future issues.
Plus, it's a good feeling to know how something mechanical works I think. But yeah, it's already drivable....I took it out a few days ago for a bit.
Plus, it's a good feeling to know how something mechanical works I think. But yeah, it's already drivable....I took it out a few days ago for a bit.
cafenewb
XS400 Addict
Yeah, for the vacuum and fuel line I just pull them from the petcock and leave them attached to the carb boot and carb respectively.
Then the process Willem explained is correct. It's just the one bolt under your crotch, then slide it back. There are two large, rubber stoppers at the front of your frame that these metal loops on the tank latch onto. Once you have it off you'll see.
Then the process Willem explained is correct. It's just the one bolt under your crotch, then slide it back. There are two large, rubber stoppers at the front of your frame that these metal loops on the tank latch onto. Once you have it off you'll see.
chrisd1984
XS400 Addict
Ok this sounds good. When I unhook that vacuum, is anything going to come out of the tube?
If it ain't broke, don't fix it and you will have a wonderful summer. How many kms on it?
A certification is only as good as the mechanic that inspected the bike. It is NOT a guarantee or warranty. It is a minimum standard that must be met.
Please don't get a false sense of security just because of a piece of paper. Have a trusted mechanic go over the bike, if the mechanic who did the safety inspection isn't known to you and trusted.
Please don't get a false sense of security just because of a piece of paper. Have a trusted mechanic go over the bike, if the mechanic who did the safety inspection isn't known to you and trusted.
It's always good to know your way around the technical parts of your bike. That's also a reason I bought my XS400, it was cheap (125 euros) and easy to work on.
I have to disagree with Lou, although only partially. Sure, don't take the engine apart completely. But a good carb cleaning is never bad, especially if the bike hasn't been ridden alot for a while. And knowing how to adjust valve clearance, how to take off the seat and tank and checking the wiring is quite essential I would say.
When you unhook the vacuum nothing is going to come out. It's just air in there which sucks a vacuum in there, which 'turns on' your fuel flow in the petcock. You can take it off the petcock, or pull it out of the carb boot. I usually just leave the petcock side attached, but I see cafenewb does it the other way around.
You can do everything yourself as long as you take it slow, don't cut off random stuff or round off too many nuts and bolts with ajustable wrenches and hammers.
Back in january I didn't know much about bikes either, but I've been reading and asking here about just about everything and I get more and more accustomed to the terminology and the way the bikes work. But in the end, you'll learn by actually doing some maintenance yourself.
I have to disagree with Lou, although only partially. Sure, don't take the engine apart completely. But a good carb cleaning is never bad, especially if the bike hasn't been ridden alot for a while. And knowing how to adjust valve clearance, how to take off the seat and tank and checking the wiring is quite essential I would say.
When you unhook the vacuum nothing is going to come out. It's just air in there which sucks a vacuum in there, which 'turns on' your fuel flow in the petcock. You can take it off the petcock, or pull it out of the carb boot. I usually just leave the petcock side attached, but I see cafenewb does it the other way around.
You can do everything yourself as long as you take it slow, don't cut off random stuff or round off too many nuts and bolts with ajustable wrenches and hammers.
Back in january I didn't know much about bikes either, but I've been reading and asking here about just about everything and I get more and more accustomed to the terminology and the way the bikes work. But in the end, you'll learn by actually doing some maintenance yourself.
oh yea in your thread about the fuel filter there is a link to the how-to for installing a filter, there is a nice picture showing the vacuum line there.
chrisd1984
XS400 Addict
Yes I know certification is only as good as the inspecting mechanic, I had someone else look it over as well just to be safe, same guy who replaced one of the fork seals. I'd just really like to start doing more of this stuff myself in the future.
Are their any tips for checking the valve clearance? Are you referring to the valves in the cylinder?
Also, when removing spark plugs with the engine off, can I just give them a hard pull to yank them out with the wires attached or do I need some sort of ratchet first?
Are their any tips for checking the valve clearance? Are you referring to the valves in the cylinder?
Also, when removing spark plugs with the engine off, can I just give them a hard pull to yank them out with the wires attached or do I need some sort of ratchet first?
you can pull off the spark plug caps and wires from the actual plug. Should come off easily. Don't start yanking the plugs themselves, though! they're screwed in, you'll need a 6-sided socket for it. Not everything fits cause of the cooler ribs on the cylinder, but find one that does, you'll need it.
Tips for checking the valve clearance you can look for here on the forum, there are alot of threads about it. I remember a recent one where bentwrench had a good write up on it - ah here it is
http://www.xs400.com/forum/showthread.php?t=10033
But its pretty straight forward.
Tips for checking the valve clearance you can look for here on the forum, there are alot of threads about it. I remember a recent one where bentwrench had a good write up on it - ah here it is
http://www.xs400.com/forum/showthread.php?t=10033
But its pretty straight forward.
chrisd1984
XS400 Addict
Is there a way to tell if a new spark plug is needed? Will the ends be burnt out or can a voltmeter be used to test?
Ok I'll have a look at that link thanks.
Ok I'll have a look at that link thanks.
chrisd1984
XS400 Addict
Very interesting link. When would I need to ever check the valve clearance? And any idea what a "shim" is in this context?
And I may have asked already in different wording but what does balancing the carbs refer too?
And I may have asked already in different wording but what does balancing the carbs refer too?
I just replace my spark plugs periodically. They're cheap. But there's a lot of things you can see from your used plug, for instance, if the tip is very white your engine is running too lean, too little fuel in the air-fuel mix. If the tip is darker brown gooey you might have an oil leak into your cylinder somehow, and if the tip is black with soot the mixture is too rich. Google around a bit, there are some nice articles on how to 'read' your spark plug out there since this also works for cars and other bikes, anything with a plug basically.
I've seen plugs that did their job for decades without failing, there are also plugs that fail in a week. Usually when your plugs fail that quickly, there is something else wrong like your fuel mixture or on the electrical side.
You can check if your plugs are most likely good by taking them out of the engine and putting them back in the plug cap connecting to the plug wire. Now you can spark it against your engine (just hold the plug itself against one of the cooler ribs on the cylinder). If you press the starter button now there should be some sparking. If not, the plug, the plug cap, the plug wire, the coils or the battery is dead. If you get spark, a nice strong spark implies that the plug is good. However, because this spark also has to be generated under the pressure inside your engine, there is no real way to tell if it's definitely good. That's why it's usually best to just replace the plugs.
You check the valve clearance periodically. Check the manual for maintenance intervals. If your engine rattles at all, or doesn't run as well anymore, it's always good to do this. A 'shim' is basically a little filler plate which can be slid in there. The thickness of the shim determines the amount of clearance on each valve. When the clearance changes due to wear over time, you'll need different size shims. Our bikes have shims, others have other systems (that often don't require you to get replacement parts such as different size shims). Benefit of a shim system is that it keeps the clearance stable for a relatively long time, so you don't need to adjust it as much. But since our bikes are old, your valves could probably do with some adjustment.
I've seen plugs that did their job for decades without failing, there are also plugs that fail in a week. Usually when your plugs fail that quickly, there is something else wrong like your fuel mixture or on the electrical side.
You can check if your plugs are most likely good by taking them out of the engine and putting them back in the plug cap connecting to the plug wire. Now you can spark it against your engine (just hold the plug itself against one of the cooler ribs on the cylinder). If you press the starter button now there should be some sparking. If not, the plug, the plug cap, the plug wire, the coils or the battery is dead. If you get spark, a nice strong spark implies that the plug is good. However, because this spark also has to be generated under the pressure inside your engine, there is no real way to tell if it's definitely good. That's why it's usually best to just replace the plugs.
You check the valve clearance periodically. Check the manual for maintenance intervals. If your engine rattles at all, or doesn't run as well anymore, it's always good to do this. A 'shim' is basically a little filler plate which can be slid in there. The thickness of the shim determines the amount of clearance on each valve. When the clearance changes due to wear over time, you'll need different size shims. Our bikes have shims, others have other systems (that often don't require you to get replacement parts such as different size shims). Benefit of a shim system is that it keeps the clearance stable for a relatively long time, so you don't need to adjust it as much. But since our bikes are old, your valves could probably do with some adjustment.
chrisd1984
XS400 Addict
ok thanks for the informative reply, I'll look into getting some spark plugs soon.
As for the valve clearance, do you think any of these videos are similar to what I would do with the Maxim? And how often do you check yours? And does this shim stay there permanently or is it just used to measure/space out the valves?
As for the valve clearance, do you think any of these videos are similar to what I would do with the Maxim? And how often do you check yours? And does this shim stay there permanently or is it just used to measure/space out the valves?
jasonbenj
XS400 New Member
In regards to " There are two large, rubber stoppers at the front of your frame that these metal loops on the tank latch onto. Once you have it off you'll see" Well, I see the rubber stoppers, but what is the removal process for them? Turn? Lift? push in on on one side to release the other?
I ask because the rubber parts are getting hard to replace, I find any bad pressure on them and they break, rip, crack etc
I ask because the rubber parts are getting hard to replace, I find any bad pressure on them and they break, rip, crack etc
