Igintion problem

which is the right direction
That is the last thing to worry about, Right at that moment you, have your solder iron, handy. Then it matters, after you have dried test the length of replacement wire, etc, solder at hand, Iron red hot, (not quite, just making the pic). of coarse you could do what yamaha did, and solder/crimp bullet connectors on your kit, so if you have it backwards, you change the crimps to the opposite before you solder it in place, and put the heat shrink over it.
 
thanks guys I found it.Tomorrow I need to call these clowns again about this.
Order Details Ordered Ext. Price

3H5-81980-00-00 DIODE (Yamaha Motor) $8.49
Available Wednesday, July 09, 2014 :cussing:
2
Date Ordered: 05/29/2014
Payment Method: PAYPAL
:wtf::mad:
 
this is crazy early this am I had a dream and got my bike running,I was so happy that I was doing burnouts in circles for a very longtime.Then unfortunately I woke up:laugh:Seriously though now Im having dreams about my bike,my subconscious is telling me how bad I miss riding her.If only it wasn't a dream.
 
It started once by for minute by kick starting yes,I got parts I need time to put them on and get the tank some gas.I still need pretty sure kickstart or not I need the diode.Which I was going to ask what is this diodes purpose other than make current flow 1 direction through this part of the wiring?I don't want burn anything else up.
 
Which I was going to ask what is this diodes purpose other than make current flow 1 direction through this part of the wiring?I don't want burn anything else up.

It adds more power to the headlight circuit. Until you crank the motor over, your headlight should be off. once it turns over, (mind you, the relay is a dumb device) Once the alternator creates some power, it will allow the headlight to turn on. So if we follow the white line from the stator, 2 go uninterrupted to the rectifier. 1 line tee's off goes to the diode, then to the headlight relay.

technical explanation
So in a super technical explanation, you have a 3 phase alternator. your sending one phase to the head lights, cause they are rated for 65 amps/watts at Hi Beam, so this is Yamaha's attempt to minimize the dimming of the lights at full stops.

So what does the diode do?
Its a one-way power allowance. the 3 phase power is AC (alternating current.) The Diode makes the current one way, also known as DC, Direct current. Which is what your battery is capable of dealing with. Which seems to me, my 3rd time saying the same thing? in the same thread. Did this time help?

once it turns over, (mind you, the relay is a dumb device)
Dumb device, it doesn't care if the engine started, just that some electricity got created.
 
thanks arfstrom you know your electronics,I used to know all this stuff till I got cage rattle by a head on accident years ago.So this is good its not neccasary to get my bike to run just the lights,things are looking up maybe.

So I alos got some kinda good news today.I got of hold of the people at boats.net today and found out I can get one of the parts I ordered but have to wait on the other one.So for the rest of you that need this diode they are on back order.You can either wait till July to order or Pay 3 times the amount for the part at Mikesxs
 
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Its not that I know it instinctively, its that i spent hours looking at it, checking every line for shorts, and reading everything I could find, to include the XS650 stuff. Which i later figured out was not like ours. Unfortunately I think to do any more troubleshooting, you need the 'toaster board' something that allows you to test relays, and all that. For you and I, that is an frivolous expense. Heres to getting it to run. I am out till next tuesday now till I can attempt to start my bike.!!!! :cheers:
 
Yesterday I was testing my starter solenoid for continuity,I have power going into it but when I test the two wires coming out of the back side they were dead.Yet I can still jump the starter by crossing the main terminals together.Theres a blue and brown wire or red cant remember correctly but does this mean my solenoid is bad.
Also I tested the fuses from the back side opposite from where the wires plug into it.I should have power there shouldn't I?
 
Also I tested the fuses from the back side opposite from where the wires plug into it.I should have power there shouldn't I?
Yes. With your black multi-meter sensor, hold that to ground, (I like to use alligator clip to ground somewhere) Test both sides of the fuse,if you haven't upgraded to the blades, that means on either side of the glass tube. if you have the blade type fuse, there is a little square piece of metal for testing to see if you have power on which side of the fuse. Ideally you will have same amount of voltage on both squares. You can speed up the testing process with a test lamp, that is only cause it has a allagator clipped to ground, then the sharp probe with a light on it, will light up every time you touch something with power.
http://www.amazon.com/Professional-...TF8&qid=1402277611&sr=1-7&keywords=test+light

multimeter device will allow you to get info on resistance and shorts.

I was testing my starter solenoid for continuity,
did you get this test from the manual? should be a test in the manual. I am too tired to look for it right now, If I get time tomorrow, after I spend some quality time with my bike, I will look that up for you. Should be a test in the manual, I seem to remember on the old fasion 79 Vega, I was able to touch the starter seloniod with a screw driver, but I can not think of seeing anyone post doing that on this forum before. If you find out, let me know. Thanks
Tobie
 
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thanks Arfstrom I was using my test light on the little metal strips on the back of the fuses and they are the blade type.
I didn't get anytime with bike today I was hoping to do some more testing with the voltage meter and the test light.
I spent the afternoon working on my other project which seems to making more progress than the bike.
Im going try making another wiring system for starting when I get the chance.If my back didn't give so much trouble I would just do away with the estart.
I also have to redo 1 of the 4 prong connectors the wiring is breaking.
 
Okay dokey, I got it done. here it is the solenoid test, from the on line service Manual.

Looks like you are ready for step 4. but just in case, start with step one. I don't want to be the guy that for got to tell you, unplug your battery. Especially when there is a huge Caution.

(click on that image, and it will pop up in a mini-full screen. Click in the middle, it will open up big in Internet explorer, or what ever your using for a browser. then you can print it out.
 

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Thank you so much for the info I will get on this asap.Right now my 1 priority has been this.Im paying $90 a month to have a place to work on it.This project is close to completion and its getting as much time as I can put into it right now so the bike is on the sideline for now.
 

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Something to ad is my test light has two wires I need to get one like shown from the link.Might have sometime in the next couple days to work on the bike.Could be I was doing the test improperly.I may have someone who can help me out in a week or so.I`ll let you know when I find something else to report about.
 
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