Left and Right Crankcase off... now what?

[TimmyT]

1978 xs400E in progress. Ok so after my rewiring the stator and field coil I found out after pressing it all back in the field coil has failed or my new wiring got pinched somewhere. So what the hell try again. I figured I can check my gasket and improve it along the way and see for anything that passed me by ... such as the exhaust gaskets I never did. So along the way I inspected the shift rod, gear selector, and clutch as well, as well as the kick start and gears. All of which seem to be within spec. The service manual has enough detail for a mechanic which I am not, and some bad black and white photos to back it up. So Upon opening it up there are a few things that elude me before I close it up again which I want to tend to cause I don't want to drain the oil and do it all again. All parts so far have been cleaned up and re oiled. I removed the oil pump but the cover bolts are far to tight to open and inspect the inside for wear or damage, should I worry much about this component failing if everything else checks out. The kick start return spring seemed a little loose and I found a way to set it so the spring is tight with some good action, the only thing I was not sure about is the piece of metal at the back that moves counter clockwise with the kick turning action (it is part of the main shaft). Does this piece need to be resting on the side of the lip or the top of the lip inside the crankcase? If I rest on the top of the lip I worry when kicked if it will damage the engine, I would guess it rests on the side as a stopping point for the return or just floating in there not resting on anything. It only turns about a quarter turn within the housing but seems like it can be bad news if I got it wrong. The field coil is not magnetizing so maybe it has completely failed on me, likely the source of my voltage reg issues. will the coil itself actually ever fail? or just the armature? I tested my NEW rr38 and the rectifier portion is not testing correctly, but the old one checked out so Ill go back with that. What I don't get is the voltage regulator portion of the rr38 does not test in spec for my requirements, however I am getting the same funky readings from the old voltage regulator as well. Im starting to think neither is meant for my bike and I should be looking for an older mechanical voltage reg (one that controls ground) rather than these solid state units.

This time I am going to get it right, I took photos if anyone need to see what im talking about, in the meantime I am looking for advice.

Also if anyone has a Yamaha rotor puller tool to lend or sell as well as a mechanical voltage regulator for sale, or maybe (pending) a working field coil for sale then drop me a line. I have a few spare parts available for trade or just good ol cash.

Also curious about the gaskets and the overhang the old ones have on the inside of the crankcases... is it possible to just use gasket maker and seal the outside of the cases without incident or do they need to be oversized for a reason? Not even sure if mine were original or made from a kit but I would imagine they were original. Ultra Copper grade high temp gasket maker is what I went with. Apparently 1.2 mm thick or so and handtight screws until it oozes out the sides a bit, wait 30 min and 1/4 turn tighter, then after an hour or two another quarter turn then after 24 hours dry time torque to spec. Anyone have any thoughts pro or con on these gasket makers or should I look into getting a real set? thanks in advance fellas!

 

[TimmyT]

Forgot to mention a few things I noticed I would like verified I put together right. I noticed with the clutch all the way while in 1st or 2nd gear the kick start will roll the bike forward when coming close to bottoming out, not sure if this is an issue or not given the way the gear on the kick start engages when rolled counter clockwise. Although I thought the clutch is intended to release the gears when pulled in this seemed odd to me. Although there is a clear difference when I roll forward in 1st with compression and pull the clutch in and roll forward with only minor resistance. Keep in mind this was before clutch disassembly cleaning and re-oiled all plates with JASF MA-2 certified oil. I had Castrol 20w50 in there a few oil dumps ago. Also I remember the clutch return on the left side cover I may have installed something wrong in a stuper as it took me a while to piece it together after disassembly. The clutch rod installed from the left side cover that releases tension on the gear selector, when I pulled it out to grease it I never remembered a ball bearing coming out but I do remember putting one in. As to say for the clutch rod would have 2 ball bearings one on the spring back tensioner mechanism on the left side. The other ball bearing on the right side of the rod that is pushed upon the back side of the gear selector? It never sat well with me as around that same time I remember using some brutality to remove my wheel bearings to replace with new ones..... I just hope I wasn't stupid enough to just find a random wheel bearing from a set I shattered open then decided to place it there thinking that's where it must have gone. Either way I don't think much damage could have been caused as that passage seems to go right through left to right side and the only likely implication would be the adjustable return screw and locknut under the left side rubber plug wont seat in as far as it should go... or with no ball bearing It may not go in far enough to keep it in gear.

At least I didn't put the bearing in the crank case breather hose!

 

[xschris]

Here are a few answers to some of your questions. Always use a good gasket for the covers, there will be a little over hang in some spots. Avoid "sealers" With the clutch when you put it together did you line up the two arrows? If not it will not work correct. I posted also a pick on how the kick start should be installed.

 

[TimmyT]

thx xschris, definitely made sure the arrows line up although that would have been pretty easy to miss. Kick went together ok as shown but what we cant see is the thick metal tab that is on the other side of the kick start gear that twists into place. As far as I can Tell there is 270 degrees of clearance and a 90 degree formation from the engine side that looks like it will not give the kick clearance to go in properly if the thick metal tab on the end is not floating within the 270 degree area.
For all I know there is enough clearance, my best guess was that this is a resting point for the tab. Most likely on the vertical side when it is in the clockwise return position. Since the tab moves with the kick action I would have guessed bad things happening during counterclockwise operation to the vertical side of the lip if it ever became a stopper for the tab which is part of the main kick shaft. If the starting point of the tab rested on the vertical lip I would imagine no counterclockwise operation possible without some metal breaking somewhere. Or just a decommissioned kick altogether.

 

[xschris]

The metal tab should be at around 4 o'clock. Then you will pull up the tension spring counter clockwise to attach it to the case.

 

[TimmyT]

thx for sorting me out on that, I have time to tinker cause I pulled the trigger on a new gasket set all around. for under $50 it was a no brainier rather than mucking around. Wont be doing an engine rebuild this year tho so the extras can hang around until needed. I never had exhaust gaskets in there either so I would have had found a leak from both pipes anyway after assy. Will try and sort out the field coil disconnect as well, my reading is infinite when testing green and black, and again infinite when touching the case so the re-wire I did is not shorting nor connected to the coil. I only spliced in after the rubber grommet so my issue tbd will likely be within the few inches I didn't re wire or less likely answer being I pinched one or both of the 14gauge wires upon assembly (maybe overkill). Was looking into my VR and there is lapse in solid state and mechanical voltage regulator info. For '78 I can find both VR will span these years, The pinout also changes on the 3 wire config between the two types. Once I get my coil up to snuff I speculate I can change the pinout if both my vr dont want to respond.