My '76 XS360C Restoration

This is all great stuff! Did you polish the forks while you had them off? Looks great. Nice pictures, thanks for sharing and keep up the good work dude!
 
Thanks guys. Tombo: I didn't do any polishing to the forks, the wheel or anything else yet. I just cleaned them all up with WD40 on a cloth.

I finally got the parts to finish up the petcock and carbs so they are all ready to go now.

The petcock was pretty dirty when I took it off the tank..

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..but it cleaned up well and I installed a rebuild kit.

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A buddy turned me onto some Suzuki filters...

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... that fit the fuel pipe.

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For the Reserve, I fit another filter to an old piece of fuel line that was flaired on the end...

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...and jammed it in tightly.

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Done. Now the carbs.
 
xschris, I'm not sure why I'd do that. I chose to filter internally so I wouldn't have one on the outside. Do you think there would still be sediment passing these filters?

On to the carbs. They were kinda crusty, too.

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Notice the piece of gasline that's been coated with black silicone on the ends. The carb on the right had an air leak on the air filter side. I'm not sure if that's why it's so dirty in the bore. The jets were clean in it, as was float bowl, as if no gas was getting in there.

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Unlike the left carb...

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To clean them I followed a suggestion I found on an ADVRiders.com thread and soaked them in Pine Sol. I read thru the whole thread and then used the bits that appealed to me to do it my own way.

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Basically, I used about 4/5 straight Pine Sol and 1/5 water. After full dissasembly, I soaked the first carb in the solution for about 12 hours. That turned out to be way too long and I ended up with powdery oxidization film on everything. The guys who soak for days at a time must have carbs made of different material than these. It took a lot of brushing and lightly working with 0000 steel wool to get it all off. The insides of the carbs fared better and I only lubricated them with WD40 to get them clean & smooth again.

I only soaked the second one for about 6 hours and it came out much nicer. It was all cleaned up and a light brushing with a toothbrush under running water was all it needed.

Recently I added another step to the Pine Sol method- vibration. I've placed the container on top of the woofer under my workbench while I listen to some heavy Blues. Other guys say vibration may help but I'm not sure yet. It sure sounds good while I'm trying it out, though.

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The needle jet o rings were cracked when I took the jets out so I order new ones. They looked way too small but I read somewhere that they would fit so I intalled them anyway and sure enough, they're just fine. The old ones had grown huge with age.

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I made sure to follow all the channels throughout the carbs from one end to the other and blew them all out with the compressor. All the jets were cleaned up with carb cleaner and blown dry. There was no wear on any brass parts that I could see with a magnifying glass so all the stock bits were re-used.

Here are the clean carbs..

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..and with the new flanges, all ready to instal. BTW, I now realize I have the vaccum plug on the wrong side.

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Now it's time to finish cleaning the back side of the engine so I can finally get these babies on.
 
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Very clean! make sure your diaphragms are in good shape and are tear and hole free!

and now might be a good time to switch to hex heads or allen bolts instead of screws on the bowls and diaphragm covers!
 
Thanks Sesty. Yup, I checked the diaphrams, too. They are perfect and the slides barely go down at all when I put my thumb over the vent hole.

Good idea on the screws.
 
I would use a stone type or paper external filter. The petcock filter will only stop large bits. Unless your tank in brand new inside and you filter all the gas that goes in the bike you will still need a finer filter media. With your carbs all clean you would not want to mess them up:wink2:
 
Im not sure if that makes any difference since these bikes came out long before ethanol fuel was forced upon us.I would double check and make sure,other wise it will get hard and brittle.Im also not sure how much gas flows through that tube or what its purpose is.Probaly to balance out the fuel flow to both carbs.Maybe a carb expert can chime in and confirm this.I also recogmend using an external fuel filter.I have seen those fill up with a lot of crud so the internal screens don't stop all the garbage from going through them.
 
That clear line is the fuel rail, or at least that's what it is called in bikes with 3 or 4 carbs. In the case of the 400, its how the fuel gets to the right side carb.

Its certainly possible it is not ethanol resistant. ethanol resistant line is easy to come by if you notice shrinkage in the line. At that point you will have to drain the carbs, dismount and replace the line.

Mikes XS and various other online stores offer ethanol resistant fuel lines in clear and other fun colors if you want to know for sure.

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I would use rubber ethanol resistant line. The plastic stuff will get soft and gooey with modern fuels and split over time.
 
OK, guys, I'm hearing you. I don't recall if I asked about that when I got the line but I'd be surprised if the dealer sold me stuff that is not ethanol resistant. They deal not only Yamaha bikes and sleds but Ducati and Triumph bikes as well so they'd better know what they are doing.

But I will double check with them next time I pick up parts just to be sure. BTW, I was hesitant to buy it in the first place because it's not really clear but kind of a light pink. I know, I know, not that there is anything wrong with it but I wanted black and this pinkish line is all they carry. I was hoping it would blend in with my orange tank and look light orange.

Thanks all. I'll let you know.
 
This is the stuff my yamaha dealer sold me. They carry two different types one with an inner core and one without. The one with the core is much better for holding on fittings and is what I use for the crossover when rebuilding carbs. It's also like $4 a foot but is well worth it.
 

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Anytime I buy fuel line for anything I make sure its ethanol resistant.I made the mistake of using clear plastic line for fuel line on bike,it got harder than a rock an expanded at the ends.Off it went and was replaced with marine grade fuel line.Its not clear but its doubled walled.
 
I've been out of town for a couple weeks but I just picked up my parts from Dime City Cycles.

I couldn't even wait to take a photo of the bars alone. I had to slap them on first.

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I test-fit the Dunstal Replica pipes but they will take a bit more finessing to mount them properly.

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I'm raring to get back to work on the bike.
 
I've been doing more clean up. This time on the stands, inside the clutch cover and the underside of the engine.

Both stands were in this general condition.

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The centre stand needed more rust removal. A wire brush made quick work of it.

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I coated both with Trem Clad rust paint.

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Then added several thin layers of black undercoating. I soaked the bolts and springs in Pine Sol to degrease them.

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This gunk has likely been sitting in this clutch cover for the full 38 yrs. of the bike's life.

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I only remembered to snap a pic after I'd already started cleaning up this area.

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WD40 melted the mess quite well and the air compressor help me blow the dirt out of the little spots I coudn't quite reach with a rag.

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I also mocked up a fly screen. Not sure if I'll go with it or not. Gotta figure out the mounting.

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Next on the agenda is cleaning up the battery box. Maybe I'll coat the stands with a gloss black, too.
 
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