My '76 XS360C Restoration

Wow... simply amazing. Spoked wheels looks great so do painting. Did you thought about using that enormous windscreen :D?
 
Thanks guys. I'm quite happy with it. Now I can't wait to ride.

I think I rectified the idle issue very easily after a little searching and reading on this forum.

First off, I had the vacuum hose hooked up to the left carb. Manual says it should be on the right, so I switched that.

Next, I had the idle screws set to what the manual says, 1 1/2 turns out. Most guys here say it should be 3 for a XS400. I went with 2 1/2 turns out for my XS360 carbs. Once warm it idles right at 1200 rpm. So far no issues with the idle hanging or anything. We'll see once I get to give it a good ride.

I'll get temporary insurance tomorrow morning and take it for a ride to make sure I can get to the safety and back ok. If I have problems early I can always trailer it down to the shop.

More to come.
 
The bike looks great:thumbsup: The xs360 carbs are much more rich running the the 400's are I run my 80 xs400 (pods, 2-1 free flow exhaust) with xs360 carbs at 1 1/2 turns out:wink2: After you sync the carbs and run it a bit I would check the plugs to see how they look.
 
Will do Chris. Thanks for the info.

I haven't looked at the plugs yet. I've only clocked 2 miles on the side streets so far. I'll give it a better run this morning with some insurance on it.
 
Funny you should ask, I just happen to have a huge windscreen. It's even colour coded to the bike.Should I ship it to you?

Haha! I know you have one, i saw it on your first post here. It's look quite unique, so i asked if you planing to use it again. Thanks for your offer but it won't fit my vision of my Bike :D

cheers!
 
Rode the bike down for the safety. The mechanic was duly impressed with the overall bike. He was hard-pressed to take enough time to charge me his fee. Everything worked as it should.

He didn't need to remove the rear wheel to measure the brake pads and drum because I'd removed it myself and taken it in for measurement last week. That simplified matters considerably.

Anyway it got a clean bill-of-health and I took it for a 20 mile ride on the way home. Runs and sounds great.
 
Thanks DMW.

I followed xschris' advice and turned in my idle screws some more. I'm at 2 turns out right now. It starts first kick and idles at 1200 quite quickly but, as I learned the other day, it doesn't really warm up properly until it's been ridden for a ways. It's been raining here all week so I haven't gone for another ride. (the rainsuit I ordered was too small so I sold it locally).

Today I figured out a mounting system for some leather saddle bags that were given to me. I'll get some pics up soon.

Over the winter I picked up a Givi trunk and I attached the mounting plate to the back rack the other day.

I'm not too sure about the luggage but I will need some way to carry stuff so I'll try each piece and see what I prefer. It's Swap Meet week-end here with one swap meet occuring on Saturday and the other on Sunday so I'm quite sure I'll be packing something home. It will finally be sunny too, so I ain't taking the truck.
 
Photos of the bags and the trunk plate attached to the back rack. I secured the bags to the mounting plates for the hard bags that came on it originally.

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I came across this shot of the bike when I bought it in November from the junk yard.

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OK, I'm off to the Swap Meet.
 
I finally put on a few miles and pulled the plugs.

This is the right cylinder after 75 total miles since I started it up. In person, it shows a little more brown than it does in the photo.

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The left one looks the same but the photo turned out poorly focused. It does show the brown better though.

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I am down to 1 1/2 turns out on the idle screws.

According to the NGK website that looks like a pretty good condition.

Do you guys agree?
 
I would say not to bad. I would take it out for a long 50 mile 60mph run and then park it let it cool then check. Doing short runs won't tell the whole story.
 
I took the bike for about a 75 mile ride on Saturday but then decided to change the oil before I pulled the plugs. It had cooled off so I ran it a bit to warm the oil again and I suspect that would mess with the plugs.

Here's the left

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and the right

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I found that the bike has good acceleration and pull all the way up to red line and kind of breaks up and loses power around red line. It likes to cruise around 5,000 rpm and still has plenty of pick up from there.

But, once it is nice and warm the idle hangs at around 3,000 rpm. Sure I can bring the revs down by dragging the clutch but I don't want to be doing that all the time. I'm sure there are a couple guys who know why this happens?

If I had to guess, I'd say I need to adjust the big idle adjust knob in the centre of the carbs at the back. But I'm off to use the Search.
 
Looks a little lean. What is you clips set at on the needles in the needle jets.
 
Did you put different exhaust on the bike than what came with it? You may want to bump up the mains one or two also. The right plug look more lean than the left you may want to re-sync the carbs again.
 
My clips are on the third, middle notches.

Yes I put different pipes on and I'm using the stock air filters. There is more air flow through these pipes. You can see straight through and there is only a screen with large, round perforations across the inside of the pipes, as seen in this image of the pipes I got, from the Dime City Cycles website:

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Given your questions I'm gonna guess you'll say to try moving the clip (but I don't know which way) and/or to go up one size on my mains from 135 to 137.5. Am I on the right track?

What about adjusting the throttle screw? I messed with it when I first started the bike and have never put it back where it was. I turned it maybe 1 or 1.5 full turns, clockwise I think. Do you know what the standard or default setting is?

What I'm finding on my Searches for "hanging idle" is to check for air leaks. I have new carb joints but re-used the plug for the one vacuum nipple. I have a new vacuum line. I made sure to check and really tighten all my other joints to the carbs but haven't checked for leaks with spray carb cleaner. I re-used the original H-pipe but it doesn't appear to have any cracks.

Also, I haven't synced the carbs yet.

Thanks for any advice.
 
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