New guy, and possible xs400 owner

zjustin28

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Hi guys, new guy here.

Im looking at purchasing a 1980 xs 40 special II. From a local guy i know.

It seems to be in okay shape, only pic i have of it:
s33982.jpg




As it sits, it has 991 original miles. Yes, 991. Also has original tires, and original gas from 1981 :banghead:.

The guy im possibly buying it from, wants 450 bucks. To my uneducated self, this seems like a good deal?

He says, it needs a new battery, carbs/tank cleaned, and obv new tires.

Im wondering if id be looking into an electrical nightmare, or any other big issues. He says it kicks over fine, but hasnt tried actually starting it. It has been stored inside all its life, so i dunno how bad anything could really be.

Im new to bikes, but am very knowledgeable about cars/mechanical stuff. (restoring my 77 formula firebird, and finishing up a build on my 1985 z28)

Just kinda wanting some tips/advice on the purchase.

Thanks!
 
As long as it has a title I would go for it:thumbsup: With those little of miles I would think just a general tune up would do it.
 
yep, looks a good start. carbs would need to be checked and gas tank cleaned up along with all the rubbers checking.

fun bikes to work on.
 
Yep, has a title. What are some thingsto check for? I tried searhing for a buyers guide by bcware, but couldnt find it...anyone got a link?
 
I would definitely buy it!!!

less than 1000 miles on a 30+ year bike... with a clean title. You should have no problem getting it running again. Change out all the fluids, clean the carbs, swap the plugs and battery and I bet it starts right up. With that little amount of miles, I bet it's still on the factory settings...

That's a hell of a deal. Scoop it up before someone else does!
 
So, in trying to keep my costs down:

How should i check the transmission? Should i look at any electrical areas for certain? Any thing i can do to make sure im not gonna be spending loads of cash to get this running? I dont mind some work, but not looking for a full project.
 
With under 1,000 miles would it still be under warranty? :laugh:

I suggest you buy it ASAP as the regret for not buying it will last longer than fear of buying a lemon.:twocents:
 
So, in trying to keep my costs down:

How should i check the transmission? Should i look at any electrical areas for certain? Any thing i can do to make sure im not gonna be spending loads of cash to get this running? I dont mind some work, but not looking for a full project.

Between new tires/tubes, plugs/wires, battery, and carb kits you are already looking at about $400 and two weekends if you do everything yourself (fair warning). I think it's still worth it though, since I paid $1000 for mine in Chicago and since that is all fairly typical maintenance stuff.

As far as I know all you can do to check the trans is to put the bike on the center stand while in gear, checking that the rear wheel spins while you hit the kick start. Personally, I'd be most worried about possible rust inside the engine: if it doesn't run often, then oil doesn't stay on everything. You did say that he has made sure it kicks over OK, so maybe I'm just being paranoid. :shrug:

My advice on electrical: check everything! You know you're going to be ordering things already, so combining shipping is a sure-fire way to save you a few bucks. It seems like many of the bikes here have stock coils, ignition, starter/solenoid, regulator, and rectifier, so don't worry too much about that. I would say that the coils and solenoid are the most likely to go bad, but it really depends on how the bike was stored over the years.

The remainder of my wisdom: see if you can borrow a nearby ultra-sonic cleaner for the carbs, you want them spotless! Some PB blaster in the cylinders and Seafoam in the new fuel and oil won't hurt either. Good luck, and hopefully it won't be long before :bike:
 
Thanks for the post!

I went and checked it out saturday and we did a comp test. Pulled 144 and 152. So i think its a go.

Has anyone had luck with ultrasonic cleaners from harbor freight?

What about boiling in lemon juice?
 

It was leedutcher! sorry lee, and GREAT writeup!!

This is an answer to one of the most frequently asked questions from new and potential owners of xs360/400/650/1100

Repair Manual

It is a great place to start and the best money you could spend. You will be able sell it through a Classified Section listing or on E-Bay if you decide not to keep the bike. The Clymer manual is still in print. Haynes, Clymer, and Yamaha manuals can all be found on eBay on a regular basis. Ask the previous owner if he has one, he will probably let you have it for free.
Price: $20 - $40.

Battery

New batteries usually only last 3-5 years in service with proper care. Any battery left sitting for a year or more will be junk if not charged on a regular basis.
Did they leave the old one in? If so, look for corrosion damage to wiring and connectors. If cables are badly corroded get new ones. Short cables, in black or red, are available at most small engine / lawnmower repair shops for relatively low price.
Price: About $35-$100 depending on battery.

Tires

These will need to be replaced for sure. According to Dunlop, if they are 6 years old or more they should be replaced. Check for dry rot and cracks. Your tires are the only thing between you and the road, even if they look good and you know they are more than 6 years old, replace them. A tire will harden over time and lose grip even if it looks good! DO NOT buy replacements until you get the bike to run and idle OK. They are too expensive to buy if you can't get the bike run right.
Price: $200 at least (for 2 quality tires), more if a shop does it.

Engine

Of course change all fluids.
Also check to make sure engine is not seized up. Usually at least one cylinder will be left open to the air (valve open). I bought one stored for only 6 years and the engine was rusted solid. Buy new spark plugs. Take out the old ones and check for rust at the ends. If one or more is seriously rusted, you may be in trouble. Dump some penetrating oil in the cylinders and let it soak before you try to spin the crank (BY HAND). When you have the new battery and oil in, pull the plugs and spin the motor with the starter to distribute fresh oil around the engine. (I usually take the valve cover off and dump oil on the cams, but the whole idea is to get some oil to the top of the engine) for a minute or two. (If you don't mind overheating the starter and recharging your battery, do it until the oil light goes off).
Price: About $25 for new oil, filter and plugs

Air filter

You will need a new air filter. Check the old one for mice before you even think about turning this engine over! The XS can be replaced with stock, K&N, Uni, or pods.
Price: $30

Exhaust

Also a place mice like to hang out. Check for rusted out portions on bottom and back because they rust from the inside out when left sitting.
Also check for cracks, or patches that are hiding cracks. Cracks are very hard to fix and usually mean the exhaust will have to be replaced.
Price: $200 - 400

Tank

If gas was left in it, there will be a nasty mess. But easier to clean than if they left no gas in it and it rusted up badly. A rusty tank can be fixed as long as it is not rusted through. Also clean the petcocks out. Same for fuel lines-also check fuel lines for cracks and replace if needed.
Price: $?

Carbs

If the gas was drained you are all set. If not, you are in for another mess. They will need to be disassembled and cleaned thoroughly before even thinking about running this bike. 10 year old gas in the carbs will not be pretty.



Price: $?

Fuse box

This is a known trouble spot and years of sitting just make it worse. Check clips for tightness and corrosion, replace if needed with an after market one.
Price:$10 -$40



Brakes

Fluid will be turned to sludge after 10 years, it should be changed every two years, so this will need to be done before you drive the bike. Plan on rebuilding them if you have problems or are keeping the bike after you get it running. Check hoses for cracks!
Price: $5 for fluid, (rebuilt kits are about $30 for mc's and calipers X5) or up to $300 or more for a complete rebuild with caliper and MC rebuild kits, new pads, and stainless lines.

Other Stuff

Check your vacuum and fuel lines for cracking or brittleness,replace if needed.
The throttle and clutch cables will need to be lubed or replaced.

This is just a start...you will find more stuff that needs attention. We have been through it all. Join this forum, ask for advice! :)

I am not trying to scare you with this list. It is just some real world advice from somebody who has resurrected more than one of these great bikes after a long slumber. Most bikes will not have all these problems but some have all these and more! Good Luck with yours
 
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