New to XS member, project bike excited to wrench

I'll bet you have a float bulb full of gas...that was my problem. I pulled float and shook it....could hear gas "sloshing" in one float.
Before I reassembled, I blew some air into carb fuel inlet and manually operated to floats to open / close needle in the seat to assure of positive seal. Just an easy check. Hopefully your needle & seat came as a "matched" pair?
Shouldn't need to use any sealant on carb bowl gaskets if everything is clean. Often times sealant will "squish" out and foul the carbs.
I reused original (pretty hard) bowl gaskets after cleaning everything up. No leaks.
 
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Thanks Doug. You end up buying a new float I assume?

Yes, needle and needle valve seat were matched pair but did seem slightly loose . I'll check to see they can hold against light air pressure through fuel line when engaged

My original gaskets tore coming off. I cleaned area before placing new ones but they were particularly caked on by the oblong edges by screws. All I know is I saw fuel appear at the mouth there so I assume it was from poor gasket seal and not the hose clamp side or new boots... I'll try cleaning old gasket better with goo gone and plastic scraper since abrasive materials are a no no
 
Best to try starting with e-start or kick to test carb work? Obviously both should work!!!
I am unsure of the battery as it has 12.6 resting, about 12.35v when left in on position with lights. Think it's towards end of life but wanting to hear it run before possibly replacing and it does make an effort to turn. I usually hook it up to battery tender for a little extra boost when trying to e-start.

Since carbs were allowing free flowing gas after first clean, i had bigger priorities :laugh2:
 
She runs! If I didn't kill her...

Lot of smoking from the exhaust pipes which I was pretty confident was the wrap. Not confident at all in the prior owners work and I was thinking it may not have been run at all with these wraps previously. Smoke was definitely coming from them and not the engine block. The left pipe which is more prone to flooding from the stuck float developed a yellow film on the pipe which can be rubbed off. Can extra fuel appear on the header pipe in this manner?

However I did notice the oil light was on which is worrisome. The oil was showing way high since I bought it. However never had it running to check it after it had worked its way throughout the engine. So I drained out half a cup this morning before trying it. After I first got 30 seconds of life I realized it was a little low. added some new rotella to get it midway between the two marks. Just a little weirded out that the oil light stayed on. I did have it on the kickstand the entire time in idled and revved
IMG_20190406_102136.jpg
Screenshot_20190406-102939.jpg
Must say exhaust smell is pretty strong, presumably from drilled out exhaust

Does oil light normally stay on with kickstand? If not, I guess I are until top line and maybe check oil pump? Ever seen yellow film appear on exhaust header?
 
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Just a guess but the 'extra' oil is not oil but gas mixed in the oil. If it thins the oil it might drop your oil pressure and cause the oil light to come on. If you don't the full oil level history I'd change it to be safe.

12.7 v on a well charged battery with no load is about normal. If you are 12.6 sounds like your battery is still ok.

What's the exhaust smell like? I'd check the appearance of the plugs to make sure both cylinders are running about the same. Could be one cutting out or way off on fuel/air.
 
With the motor cold put the bike on it's center stand and make sure the oil is at the top of the site line. I have earlier style dip sticks for all my bikes but the site glass will get you by. If you have not done it already make sure to replace the oil filter and under the motor drain out and clean the sump screen. 20w-50 bike oil for wet clutches. Walmart has Valvoline for like $4 a quart or so. Works fine for these bikes. Your oil light should go off once the bike turns over. It could be a bad switch. Lets hope that's all.
 
To be honest, Ive never checked my oil the proper way. Ive always measured the amount first and then pour it in. Theres 2000cc for a quick change, and 2200cc for a complete change... I dont have my manual in front of me at the moment. From that point, I keep in mind where the oil sits on the dipstick and check it the first few rides before determining any loss and then checking it every week or so.

I believe exhaust wrap is supposed to be applied wet? so it forms easier and shrinks a bit. In the beginning, I started to clean up my pipes because they were rusty. I ended up coarse sanding them and used a scotch brite and then just left them.

The wire that connects to the oil pressure sensor could have come off. That wire and connection seems a bit flimsy and under protected to me

If you smell "strong exhaust", that probably means that you are running very rich.
 
sandmanred said:
Just a guess but the 'extra' oil is not oil but gas mixed in the oil. If it thins the oil it might drop your oil pressure and cause the oil light to come on. If you don't the full oil level history I'd change it to be safe.

12.7 v on a well charged battery with no load is about normal. If you are 12.6 sounds like your battery is still ok.

What's the exhaust smell like? I'd check the appearance of the plugs to make sure both cylinders are running about the same. Could be one cutting out or way off on fuel/air.
Click to expand...

Yes...if a float sticks and petcock doesn't work properly you could have gas in the oil sump. Mine "hyro-locked" when the float stuck...which means the cylinders filled with gas and engine locked....I pulled plugs and manually kicked over with kick starter to get gas out of cylinders. I added an inline fuel petcock below the stock petcock for a stop gap fix then installed new floats. I likely got a little fuel into oil sump....but level is where it was when I changed it a couple days earlier.....after running it a few more miles I'll change oil again. The bike sat for 15 years but oil drained out looked good. Figure out the oil light to be sure you have sufficient oil pressure before running it...could be a big "wreck" if you run it with low / no oil pressure.
 
It would narrow down what they could be from if the pieces are ferromagnetic.
Case and cylinder jugs non-magnetic, pistons, transmission, bolts, etc, magnetic.
 
After realizing there was no o-ring on my oil filter I had to buy a second Fram on so it came with the o-ring. I know that the large o-ring belongs on the filter housing, but where does the small o-ring go?IMG_20190413_103217.jpg
 
Make sure you still have the washer that goes between the filter and spring. Lots of these get stuck to the filter and get thrown out.
 
xschris said:
Make sure you still have the washer that goes between the filter and spring. Lots of these get stuck to the filter and get thrown out.
Click to expand...

Damn, wouldn't have noticed since it wasn't there from prior owner. But checked parts diagram and pretty sure it's missing. Wouldn't seem necessary since spring is even at both ends but if it's intended to be there i suppose I'll redo oil again. Anything wrong with using properly sized standard steel washer vs OEM one?
 
The oem is a bit thinner than a typical washer. Its almost like a shim. I doubt youll find the right size at a store, unless its a nut and bolt store..

Id just order the washer and wait for the next oil change. The oil filter housing bolt should be torqued to spec also.

Side note, I buy oil filters in bulk off EBay. You can find anything from 2 packs to 10 packs and they cost much less than buying them singly. I usually see K&N brand filters too so they are good quality. Also, its good have a couple of replacment O-rings just incase they start leaking or tear.
 
Thanks Mike . Got the Fram off Amazon for less than $4 add on prime! Used torque wrench, but was surprised for the filter 10.5 ft lbs really felt like a lot.

I'll keep an eye and just replace washer next go, thx for suggestion! And hopefully no more non magnetic metal flakes!!!
 

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