No head light

More resistance (ohms) means less continuity. If your meter is set to test ohms, when the number reaches infinity, you are no longer connected (ie: the circuit has been opened, wire disconnected, switch turned to off, etc.). When the meter reads zero, you have perfect continuity (ie: closed loop circuit, the connection between your meter probes are electrically connected). Since it's not a perfect world, when checking for a break in a circuit, you would expect a reading very slightly above zero for a closed or complete circuit. A break would be indicated by very high numbers or, depending on your meter, an infinity symbol.

When I checked my headlight circuit, I set my meter to 0-25 volts DC, started my bike (to kick on the relay) and put my meter's negative lead to the headlight ground, and the positive lead to either the high or low beam circuits. A reading around 12-13 v there indicates the circuit is complete and I am getting juice. If you have a good working bulb, though, this test is pointless. You might as well have the bulb plugged in and you will know if you have juice when the bulb lights up.
 
Well I probably tested it wrong I was just testing for continuity.I had my meter on that setting,so I`ll try testing it how you did and report back with my findings
 
I also did a comueity test on the plug to the head light,theres power of sort when I test for ohms or resistance.The number on my meter was 23-26.I don't realy understand what that means?:shrug:
XSchris I`ll check those relay connections like you suggested and hope that's all it is.I know they were working last year before I took everything apart.
Continuity or resistance tests don't involve or read power of any kind. Both read resistance and display ohms, kilo-ohms, or mega-ohms. The idea is to verify that the complete current path is intact by checking the circuit it takes from battery, through the wires to the light, and to ground.
Power really should be disconnected to do either test to avoid false readings or possible but unlikely equipment damage.

If it all worked before though I wouldn't suspect a fault in the wires or connectors unless some damage occurred. Are you sure everything was reconnected the same way it was before?
 
Thanks for chiming in yes everything is connected properly but even better as I replaced most of the plastic connector that were old and brittle and restriped the ends of the wires before crimping them down in the metal connectors.
 
UUG haven't had much time to do anymore testing been working on my daily driver this weekend.New pitman arm,Wooden box removed and under coated the frame.New gas tank,filter and fuel pump goes in tomorrow.Might have sometime Monday on the bike after studying.I have tests coming up.
 
Hey, about your headlight not working there is a diode in the wire going from your alternator to the headlight/flasher relay. Its in your wiring harness in a clear shrink wrap tube and I believe it's right above the air filter carb boots but that will burn up and cause your headlight to quit working. I currently am working on that problem I've read there's a diode you can get from radio shack to replace it but I can't find out what amps or volts it needs to be
 
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